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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a new motor built for my 68 TA clone track car. The new motor will be a 347 stroker dart block with AFR 205 heads. I running a toploader 4-speed with modified z-arm clutch linkage, manual steering and manual brakes. On the old motor, also a 347 stroker with victor JR heads I used Hooker Super Comp 6111 headers with 1/5/8" primaries and 3" collectors. These fit fairly well with minor clearance issues. On new motor, I want to run 1 3/4" primaries into 3" or 3.5 " collectors and also use the wider flange bolt pattern. Hooker doesn't sell anything with 1 3/4" primaries that I can use. FPA has headers that will fit except for the z-arm. FPA says I would have to convert to hydraulic clutch setup. I see Hedman has a few that may work but I'm unfamiliar witth these. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
tacougar
 

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On my 69 I have always used Hooker headers. They fit right and give little or no floor thump durring heavy acceleration or turns
However, they do not make a set that fit with a Z bar clutch. I finally gave up and went back to stock manifolds for now. My reading has provided two options.
1. Shorty headers so you can clear the Z bar. This is an expensive way of adding a slightly modified stock exhaust manifold. I don't see the point.

2. Rework the clutch to a cable or hydraulic cutch.

If you find a header that fits around the Z bar without modifying the tubes to the point it causes more restriction than extra flow, let me know. For now I am sitting tight with stock manifolds and 2 3/4 pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Wolfeman,
The Hooker Super Comp 6111s that I had on the old 302/347 worked with the z-bar just fine. The victor JR heads only had the exhaust ports raised 1/8”. The left side did almost touch the oil pan lip and the right side would hit the Idler arm just before full steering lock. Ground clearance wasn’t an issue except for loading in the trailer.

I see that Hooker makes a set with 1 ¾” primaries for a 351W, but with a taller deck height for a 351 than on a 302, they may drag on the ground. Not sure if that set works with the z-bar.
Another option is custom. A local fabricator that did my roll bar, would bend up a set, but at 3 times the cost.
And a hydraulic clutch swap is just over $500.
I’ll post what I find and install.



Thanks,
 

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You could buy one of those kits to build your own......only around $100 but tons of fab and welding on your part!
 

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Just a couple of comments about the headers on AFR205 heads. I run them as well. The Hooker SuperComps have the narrow (stock) 2" bolt pattern and the header restricts the head flow which compromises the AFR head. The FPA header is offered in the "Dart/AFR" 3 inch pattern which both on the flowbench and dyno out performed the Hooker and other headers. So...I would probably advise a change to hydraulic or cable and lose the Z bar and add the FPAs. And yes the Hookers did fit on a similar car with a manual + Zbar...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like to fabricate parts, but my welding skills aren't that good yet.
But at least I can save the old Hooker SuperComps for the next project, my RatStang.

At this point I'm leaning toward the FPA headers. Now to start researching a hydraulic clutch conversion.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Yeah, that's probably your best bet. Dont' forget to order a drop bracket for the steering ram and you do want to weld that on - I have had issues with 2 that I didn't! WCC sells a better designed one btw.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I converted to manual steering. It's a beast in a close parking lot, but I like the feel better on the track. Besides I usually steer with the gas pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just ordered a set of headers from AccuFab. http://www.accufabracing.com/
Part# BT100 - 1 3/4" long tube primaries, 3" collectorswith the FLG10 - Optional Bolt Pattern and/or Raised Port Heads. My motor builder had used AccuFab headers on other customer builds and is impressed with their quality. I called Accufab and talked to their engineer about fitment. He says their recent redesign will let me use my z-bar instead of going with a hydraulic clutch. Price is similar to FPAs. Five week delivery though.
Hope they fit.
 

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Let us know for sure....sounds challenging!
 

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Please let us know how they fit! I am at the same point with my car (68' 347, Canfield 192's, lakewood shield, stock Z-Bar) and I have been searching everywhere for 1-3/4 headers that utilize the wide bolt pattern...guess I have all Winter to find some now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. It's been a busy few months.
I received the Accufab headers on Nov. 20th, exactly 5 weeks as quoted. I had enough time to test fit them up on the engine stand before packing the car and motor away for winter storage. Still don't have my transmission back from the re-builder.
The quality, bends and welding, look very good. They should clear the TC urethane motor mounts I bought.
Looks like I should be able to use the stock clutch equalizer arm with modifications. The bottom arm will fit fine. The top arm will have to be reworked to clear the headers. Though I won't know for sure until spring when I can install the motor in the car.
IMG_0549.jpg Comparison to the old Hooker Supercomp Headers. I will have to adapt my current exhaust for the added length.
IMG_0556.jpg IMG_0562.jpg IMG_0560.jpg
I'll post more when things thaw out. Will be -18 deg. tomorrow.
 

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I feel your deep freeze today too! -13 F is going to be the high temp!!

Those are vastly different for sure! The side by side really shows that! Good things to know for those who plan to go that route in the future - thanks for sharing! I noticed they didn't put flanges on the collectors - you order them that way special so you could fab something up yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I ordered the headers without flanges. I'll add them when we adapt to the existing Spintech exhaust system.
P1010843.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
An update on my new headers. We had some clearance issues with the new headers. A friend was kind enough to help with modifying the headers. Since I'm using TCP urethane motor mounts, we had to cut and move the #1 primary tube on the right side for clearance. On the left, we had to cut and move the #6 primary tube to clear the steering box. And lastly cut back and weld the flanges to mate up with the old exhaust system. Really not that much work. Then sent headers out for ceramic coating. Very happy with the results and fit now.
As for the clutch equalizer arm: I installed a u-joint in place of the poly rag joint for more clearance. I also had to modify the top arm of the z-arm by bending it in a vise for clearance. On the lower arm of the Z-arm I welded on an extension tab to clear the header and correct the angle of the lower clutch rod. This changed the ratio some, slightly stiffer pedal, but nothing I'll complain about.

IMG_0817.jpg IMG_0815.jpg IMG_0816.jpg IMG_0813.jpg
 

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SO is that flaming river box any different dimmensionally than a stock box? Doesnt look like it at first glance anyway. Tight fit in there but the opening for the clutch stuff looks pretty good. Looking good!
 
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