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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I'm a novice at bodywork. I just welded in a small patch and am wondering whats the best filler nowadays?
all i found here so far is that evercoat is very hard to sand, evercoat rage is easier.
is there one filler thats better for thicker buildup in general
thanks
 

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proper metal work is best...that way u never have to have the "thicker" buildup... fillers should only be used sparingly and very thin...
 

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I use overcoat fillers and yes I do find it slow to sand as well. That being said I think it gives a nice finish and not too many pinholes which is why I use it. But it's all personal preference.
 

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Rage is supposed to be good stuff from what I have heard.
 

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Depends on what you are doing with it...if there is a chance of it gathering moisture, say behind the rear tires..you may want to consider using tiger hair on the first coat, and topping it with evercoat. The tiger hair will prolong the life of the evercoat, otherwise it'll draw moisture from behind and bubble. Just my two cents on it. But, as was stated above, less is better...however, I have seen others that look like they applied bondo with a boat oar and filled some pretty big holes (which should have had metal put in first).
 

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"with a boat oar"-- hehe, my chuckle for the day,Thanks, hehehe
 

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Well, at least an oar is better than a MOP. In the 50's saw lots of cars that looked like they were painted with a MOP.

Ask your supplier which fillers to use and WHEN. Go on line and LEARN.

Dale in Indy
 

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I use evercoat rage.. very happy with it.. How thick of a build-up are you looking at? Don`t want to go much more than 1/4 inch with any filler..
 

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Where is the repair in question? If it is in the rocker panel area, make sure you use something that with stick to galvanized metal. As far as I know, the rockers are the only body panels that are galvanized, but the valances may be, not sure. I know the from frame brace was galvanized as well. This is speaking based on a 70, not sure about earlier years. Rage Gold and Rage Extreme are both compatable with galvanized metal.

You might think the stuff is stuck good, but it could come loose after the paint is finished, trust me. I had a friend do this.
 

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Evercoat products. Been using since the early 80's,......Kitty Hair, Rage, Fiber Fill. What's up with the new logo, use to be able to easily spot their products by the "black cat"??? "You don't mess with tradition!"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the replies, ill attach a picture later on and see what direction i should go, till then thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
fender full weld 1.JPG fender full weld 2.JPG Ok, location is behind wheel on passenger side fender, i media blasted inside and out after hacking out the r fender tacked.JPG ot, rolled a piece with a slight gap to fit, then spotted in while working too keep flat/flush,
then i connected the spots to a full bead if you will, fender before.JPG and rough grinded, then primed the inside immediately- its hard to see but there are some valleys on the right edge and just general gaps, id say maybe .01 to fill- what do you think i should fill with now?i dont know where .01 falls in the bodywork world, i cant really hammer/dollywork over anymore as i dont want to unspotweld the inner structure thats blocking the area now
thanks, and please keep the giggles to a minimum shes my first attempt on the car itself
 

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Looks to me as if you are a fast learner,.....that's the right way to approach rust, with new metal. If you are at less than an 1/8" ,..some Evercoat poly glaze and a heavy coat of epoxy primer should serve you well. I use poly glaze for door ding sized dents and as a blending leveler, cuts real nice with no pin holes.

P.S. I would douche that area,....behind the newly installed patch, with some sealer or undercoating, that's a dirt catcher spot,....... the reason it rusted there originally.
 

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I agree, nice job. I see nothing to laugh at there.

P.S. I would douche that area,....behind the newly installed patch.
If you have trouble tracking a douche bag down, I will see if my neighbor is available, lol. Or you could always go to the next Creed concert, wouldnt be hard to find one there.
 

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Fill with regular body filler Cougarcal, .01" is tiny. Also, looks like it is mostly hidden under the rocker molding anyway, unless you do not plan to run those. Regardless, it is in a "way down" area and will be hard to see anything but a really horrible repair, and you've done much better than that!

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, thanks, i'll definitely coat the inside well,
so as a general rule of thumb, 1/8 or less polyglaze is good stuff?
when would someone use the rage stuff?
last, is there a good epoxy primer in a rattle can, im not going to attempt an at home paint job, so can i just use any primer till it gets prepped later, i was thinking of using some red oxide i have from work till later on, or is the epoxy primer necessary
thanks again, and i appreciate all your help
 

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I use plastic on any fill work regardless of how shallow but then I come from the past where it was plastic, primer and then "Nitro Stan" to fill sanding scratches. Putty coat might work fine but I cannot speak to that with any authority.

Epoxy primer is not necessary, but spray bomb should be fine until you get to self-etch (my choice for bare metal) or epoxy prime.
 

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Behind the patch work needs to be sealed with enamel paint or some type of sealer that will repel water and protect the area from corrosion. Most any enamel paint or undercoating product will work. Just stay away from lacquer primers as a coating,....water goes right through that stuff, then more rust. Areas that will be subject to crud being kicked up from the tires,...I paint, seam seal, then apply an undercoating product. You don't want anymore water or dirt getting back behind that fender support. Flip the fender upside down and shoot some paint, into that hole where the lower fender bolt tab is located. Shoot a lot of paint in there, to the point where you know it's heavily running. Then, slowly rotate the fender around, so that you know(working in the blind here) the paint is moving and coating all of the surfaces in there,....that will be better than most repairs to prevent further rust.
 
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