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Discussion Starter #1
Installed a Pertroinx II to in my 67 289 ran great last time I drove it. But now it has a nasty vibration and makes the radiator support shake like crazy when I rev the engine sitting still. I put the timing mark at TDC but the rotor is on the other side of the dist. compared to #1. Rotated the engine one time around to TDC and the rotor gets closer to#1 but is still off and points between 4 and 5. is this maybe the timing chain jumped on me? Any ideas guys.

Bryan
 

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Bryan, did it ever run good when you converted it? Whats your power source to the pertronix - (they like minimum 12V but 13-14 is better) Also - when you verify your TDC on @1 make sure it's on the correct stroke or it will look like it's 180 degrees off. Go around a few different times and verify it. Could be she slipped timing teeth but double/triple check it.
 

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Are you pointing the rotor towards the #1 cylinder, or sparkplug wire #1 position on the distributor cap ??
Because that it two different places, the spot for # 1 sparkplug wire on the distribution cap is around 1 o clock seen from front, so when rotor is pointing toward the correct place on the distributor cap, it is pointing towards cylinder #7 and 8 or so
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lets see if I can clear this up for you Jan. The timing mark on the Harmonic balancer is at TDC and the rotor is pointing at the #4 & #5 position on the distributor cap. Not at the spark plug position... So do you think the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or so????? Engine was running good the day before and fine when I put it to bed. Runs like crap now. I used a timing light to check timing and it is normally at 10deg BTDC. But it is way off now about 20 -30 degrees when I adjust the advance on the light. If I try to move the distributor to get back to 10deg the engine dies before it even gets close.
 

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Hmmm starting to sound like it then.....the old timing chains used to have nylon coated teeth to make them run quiet - but unfortunately they didn't hold up to well, so if you never had a new set in it - may be time now. (and clean out teh chunks in the bottom of your pan while your at it)

Just seems a bit odd that it happened when you made the ignition change so i'd give that another once over...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hey Bad69Cat. No the ignition change was like three months ago. Ran fine till the other day. And yes the timing chain was replaced maybe ten years ago when I had the short block rebuilt. What are the odd that there could be some valve or push rod damage?
 

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Visual check for pushrod - get the valve at full closed and loosen rocker nut until you can spin the push rod and see if there is any wobble. Run nut back down same amount loosened to maintain lash. Compression check for valve and or valve timing. If you get one cylinder that is low potentially a bad valve. If they are several or all low got bad valve timing i.e. timing chain and gear. Check to be sure the gear is still in the proper position on the distributor shaft too. you had to pull that to put the pertronix on right? Maybe something there.
 

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Seems odd that it would suddenly do this overnight.

What happens if you rotate the dizzy so the arm lines up with #1 ?


Remember to mark it before you move it so you can put it back in the same place if need be.
If the static timing is set at 10-12º, it's quite possible the rotor arm won't point to #1 if the pointer is on tdc.
Some folks stab the dizzy at tdc, others don't.
I stabbed mine at about 10º, so if I set the timing mark to that, the rotor is at #1

Also, is the motor standard ?
Aftermarket cams may run a 351 firing order.

It's actually quite frightening how far out the timing can be and a Ford will still run !!

Mine ran at 180º out, (D'oh!) although it wouldn't run well enough to drive the car, it still ran!
After my cam failed last year, it was also running on 5 or 6 cylinders, but even then I didn't get the same kind of vibration you describe !
 

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Any chance the plate in the dizzy is bouncing around...? Or the screw loose/stripped....holding the pertronix
 

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I've been thinking an inadequate ground here...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I put the old points back in still same problem. Pulled all spark plugs and ran compression on all cylinders and it read 120 on all cylinders.I checked all the connections on the distributor and all are tight. i am think inking the timing chain must have jumped, cant think of anything else. Also when I put the timing mark at TDC with the pointer the #1 piston is at the top but the rotor is pointing to the #4 position on the distributor not the #1 position.
 

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Yeah, sounds like you gotta bit of a job ahead of you then. Get a good double roller set and a timing chain/water pump gasket set.....shouldn't take to long to whip it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well i finally pulled it all apart. You wont believe what I found. The chain and gears were intact but need to be replaced, has to much play in the chain. But the worst part is the harmonic Balancer shaft portion is cracked in two places near where the key slot is located. And the wood ruf key is partially sheared. The wood ruf key is not a flat straight key, it is a half moon shape and the slot in the cam is a half moon shape also. So the question is why? When I had the short block rebuilt 15 years ago they installed a 3/4 RV cam in it. Should I have used the original balancer or would that crank shaft have required a different balancer? If so how do I know which balancer I should be using? I am thinking this may be why the engine always had a slight vibration to it. If so how can I found out which crank I have and which balancer I should be using? Any ideas guys?
 

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The woodruff key on the crankshaft should be a half moon type. The balancer on a '67 should be marked C6____ and is about 1" thick. If yours is falling apart new ones are available from all the repop parts dealers, and probably from the local auto part store.
 

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Very good possibility that was you trouble all along.....shoulda thought of that as it does happen quite a bit I guess.....DOH! Well, if the chain tension wasn't what it should be I guess it's not the end of the world....just change it out - maybe swap the water pump out while your at it...? Be sure to get a 3-bolt balancer - they aren't terribly expensive. You could also get an aftermarket one that can be 3 or 4 bolt one that has a counterweight you bolt/unbolt into place for correct balance weight if you decided to use it on another late model motor or something. (also you could adapt late model pulleys if you chose to...) A stock one is plenty good enough though.
 
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