[1969XR7Vert]

Thought I would post up my findings after painting my engine, recognizing I would need a few more cans for other blue stuff and buying another brand locally.

1. POR-15 engine enamel is a good color match but forget trying to put it on an engine well. Wasted ~$45 on the paint plus POR-15 thinner (Naptha). Not to mention wasting hours messing the engine up, the paint "raining" off it onto the drop cloth (thank God I used one!) and then wiping all the paint off with the thinner to start over. Not a good experiment.

2. Plastikote 224 matches the original color I found on my 69 air cleaner very well.

3. Duplicolor 1606 (with ceramic!) is darker and does not match as well, at least on my 69 stuff. Perhaps this (more navy) color is a good match for something older, I dunno.

Both the Plastikote and the Duplicolor are rated for 500 degrees. POR-15, who cares, too finicky to apply.

This MC.net public service announcement has been brought to you by your friendly neighborhood ECI.

 

[doctordesoto]

i used por brush on enamel on my desoto hemi motor---it took 3 coats and each coat took about a week to totaly dry--the stuff really flows so only thin coats can be used--it almost looks like ceramic---i used less than i/2 of a pint and i know that old hemi has far more surfac area than a bb ford/merc motor. iused cheep throw away brushes and cut the bristle lenght down to about 1/2 in so i could "stipple" the paint in tight areas--as it dried the paint flowe out and no brush marks
doctordesoto

 

[1969XR7Vert]

Yep Doc, I figured it is POSSIBLE to put it on, but I just don't have that kind of time/patience for such a job. I like POR stuff and it looks great on my differential, but the engine painting experiment was a big failure for me. 3 coats over 3 weeks is just too much and too long for me!

Trying to not get any runs is a real challenge too, even if you have the patience for the process you describe. Did you manage to avoid runs?

 

[1970fastcat]

I have never used the POR stuff, and have never tired to match the original blue, but the engine enamal that Autozone sells it a pain to get off once cured. I used that stuff on my heads years ago and it to forever to blast it off. It also burned off of the tops of the exhaust ports on the Cleveland (the one thing that drives me nuts about a Clevo). I have found the trick to painting an engine with BC/CC though if anyone is interested in the process.

 

[1969XR7Vert]

I'm planning on clearing my engine with Plastikote clear engine enamel over the color. Haven't yet decided whether or not to risk it (will it yellow) on the aluminum intake. Mark (Lo Ho), I know, I know, ANY and ALL clear will yellow on an engine, right?

There's a trick Mike? The one that made the second time around on the heads better than the first or in general? Of course I'm interested!, but made my choice of what I am doing already...

 

[bosselim69]

I'm planning on clearing my engine with Plastikote clear engine enamel over the color. Haven't yet decided whether or not to risk it (will it yellow) on the aluminum intake. Mark (Lo Ho), I know, I know, ANY and ALL clear will yellow on an engine, right?...

I've used the diomond satin clear on the Boss 302 alumni intake in the Eliminator 11 years ago and it has held up very well with no real visual signs of yellowing. This is on bare metal vs paint.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-satin-bare-metal-aerosol-11-oz.html

I've found Krylon to be the best corporate Blue color match and holds up well.

 

[1969XR7Vert]

Thanks Brian, I have a can of the Diamond clear as well, but was hesitant to use it after Mark's (Lo Ho) comments regarding any clear yellowing. Maybe I should re-think this (or more correctly ignore Lo Ho ;-).

I have used Krylon in the past and (as I recall) it matches well. The Plastikote 224 matches very well too.

Thanks again.

Bob

 

[1970fastcat]

I'm planning on clearing my engine with Plastikote clear engine enamel over the color. Haven't yet decided whether or not to risk it (will it yellow) on the aluminum intake. Mark (Lo Ho), I know, I know, ANY and ALL clear will yellow on an engine, right?

There's a trick Mike? The one that made the second time around on the heads better than the first or in general? Of course I'm interested!, but made my choice of what I am doing already...

As some may know, I painted my heads 3 times, the block just the one time. The first time around on my heads was my fault, mixed the clear wrong. The second time I used the same process but when I bolted the heads on the paint still wanted to twist up under the washers. In that process I blasted to bare iron, cleaned with Eastwoods metal wash, primed with a ceramic high heat primer, then based and cleared. I think between the ceramic primer and the metal wash, something just didn't bond well. Though Eastwoods directions say that it is ok to paint once it is dry.

The third time I blasted to bare iron, washed and scrubbed and wiped with laquer thinner, epoxy primed, sealed (mostly for color, the epoxy was black), then based and cleared. I wanted to insure a good bond so I wet bedded each layer. I sprayed the epoxy and waited until it was just a tiny bit tacky still, then sprayed the sealer. then I put a fan in front of them to make sure the epoxy was good and set under the sealer. Since the epoxy is a chemical reaction, it will still dry under the sealer. The sealer is just an evaporative dry so it will take several hours for it to fully cure and you have plenty of time to top coat and still have a good bond. Then an hour or so later I sprayed the base in 3 light coats. Then more fan time to make sure it was all dry enough before the clear. After I sprayed the base, it actually started to lift the sealer and epoxy under a little, started to wrinkle up. So I left the fan on it for about 4 hours until the wrinkles went away. Finally I cleared them and put them in front of the fan until the following night.

When I bolted them on, I had zero issues with the paint twisting or lifting. It did scar the paint up under and just on the edge of the washers, but not were it is easily seen. Now we will just see if the tops of the exhaust ports hold up well, after about 4 or 5 heat cycles so far they look unchanged.

I cleared my intake (don't remember what brand of clear, but wasn't Diamond Clear) and so far it looks great. If it does yellow and turn ugly I will probably have it powder coated or another coating process that I saw over on the Cleveland forum that Tim (Dragboss) is working on.

 

[Local Hero]

Nothing beats Small Block Chevy Pearl :1poke: T3, will get this.....

And yes, the Diamond Clear yellows over paint where heat is involved. I haven't tried it on bare casting though. It stayed perfect on my AC compressor and PS pump. Intake, timing cover and waterpump, not the case. HOWEVER...... the clear from the basecoat/clearcoat parts DID NOT! That's more likely the ticket. Clear that boat anchor with autobody clear.

And ignore me if you wish... I gave up on you a long time ago E-Bob. LMAO!

 

[68PUMA]

Bob, I take it you used the Plastikote 224. What is the temperature rating? Pictures please. John

 

[catman]

Sorry guys but I just had to throw this picture in.

 

[1969XR7Vert]

Bob, I take it you used the Plastikote 224. What is the temperature rating? Pictures please. John

Good question, I should have mentioned, both are rated for 500 degrees.

Here's a picture of my engine, you can click in for a higher res pic if you like. Me likey.

 

[68PUMA]

Thanks for the info on the temp. rating. Me likey the pic also.:icon16: John

 

[tbm3fan]

Eastwood's also has a Hi-Temp Ceramic Engine Paint. I just used their Chrysler blue in a quart can. Can be brushed on , sprayed on and sprayed on after adding a urethane activator for even more hardness. I brushed it on the water pump and timing cover using two coats 24 hours apart. It isn't thin at all and dries hard and with good gloss. I was impressed by it. They have Ford Corporate Blue which I used on my intake and it looks pretty darn close to me. I think you could even pour a little off and add activator then use a brush especially on rough surface parts. I'd spray on a smooth surface like a valve cover.

 

[clanceman427]

don't do what i did, and buy 1500°F paint in a spray can, and paint your heads WITHOUT properly baking the paint on in a 600° oven. The paint never cured and would just wipe off over time.

 

[69QcodeElim]

Where do you guys get Plastikote 224, I can't find it anywhere. Several years ago, I used Napa #637 (Martin Senor) which they no longer sell and I need to do some touch on my motor and it difficult to find a paint that matches. Thanks, Don

 

[1969XR7Vert]

MU used to have it, looks like they are selling Duplicolor now. I just found and ordered it yesterday (cheaper and cheaper shipping than MU) from Midway Auto on Amazon.

 

[jk69cat]

i used the g2 epoxy paint on my 347

http://www.wheelskin.com/g2_engine_paint_kit.html

she hasnt run yet, so i cant give you a long term effect window