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Discussion Starter #1
I've disconnected the engine (289 '67 according to tag) and am about to get it out now. The question is, since I'm stuck with one of those fire lighting manuals Royce was saying earlier, the book says: disconnect the engine at the underbody engine mounts.

Now english isn't my native language and I can looke the separate words up, but that still leaves me with about 6 different bolts there and no idea which they mean.
Anybody got any clear pics on which bolts to unscrew in order to lift the engine out? I don't like the idea of unbolting the wrong ones and having the thing drop on the floor or anything...
There must be some one who's done this before, so please enlighten me with y'r wisdom!!:1zhelp:

Thanks,
Matthijs
 

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Are you pulling transmission with it?

The Motor mounts are one just out and up from oil pan. There is one on each side of engine. This frees engine from its mount. It does not take care of connection to transmission or trans mount if you are removing with engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks swamper!

I'm not planning on pulling the tranny with it, so I'll unbolt the bell housing first (smart eh?!). I did find the engine mounts, which are just above the LCA to frame connection. So the bolts I'll have to take out, are these the big ones alongside the engine parrallell to the longitudinal axis of the car?
And if it's them, how does the engine stay in place when unbolted? I'd like to find out upfront for I have this nasty habit of unbolting things first and then find out there still was some stress or strain on it (rear leafs for example...).

Thanks!
Matthijs
 

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Do you have hoist hooked to it yet?

If not, Hook it up but don't actually lift until motor mount bolts are pulled just take slack out of chains.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I don't actually have the hoist yet (still have to rent it) but I'm just making sure I have the procedure right. Maybe should have said I'm readying to get the engine out...
But yeah, the hooking up before unbolting sure sounds like a sensible idea. This firestarter manual though says to unbolt the bell housing and engine mounts, then lower the car, attach the hoist and lift engine out. Sounds a bit weird if the engine is not supported by the mounts themselves and just use the bolt to secure it...

Thanks again.

Matthijs
 

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Be sure to remove the bellhousing lower dust shield (four bolts). The torque converter nuts should be removed (four). Be sure to disconnect the trans dipstick tube from the passenger side cylinder head (1 bolt).

Lower the car, support the transmission with a floor jack and lift the motor out. As the weight of the motor is raised you must follow with the transmission jack to avoid stressing the transmission input shaft.
 

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The thing that Dad and I learned is GO SLOW. Once the engine starts coming off the mounts don't just crank it out. Constantly watch all around the engine, for that last wire, that last tube, that last ______ that is still attached.

Also, we used the lift to "lift" the whole front of the car before we unbolted the engine. I quote lift, because when you think about it, we just took weight off of the front suspension. This slightly unloads the motor mount bolts. Don't raise too much, maybe an inch. Now, Swamper, Royce, did we do something stupid and dangerous that we got away with, or was that the right thing to do?
 

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I agree go slow in removing. I check closly for anything catching or binding. It definatly goes easier with 2 people. One guiding both verbaly to peson runing hoist and physicaly on engine and wires, cables, etc.

Its not rocket science but care is needed until it swings clear.
 

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Along with what Royce says, you will have to turn the crank shaft to get all torque converter bolts out. Good luck and go slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One more thing (better be safe than sorry):

Royce mentions to unbolt the torque converter nuts, does that mean the flywheel comes out along with the engine? If yes, how do you guys take it off? When the engine is attached to the engine stand, I figure it's a bit hard to reach the bolts?!

Anyone who can 'un-puzzle' me?

Thanks,
Matthijs
 

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Yes, the flywheel comes out with the engine. The torque converter stays in the transmission. You must remove the flywheel and rear engine plate with the engine hanging in the air. If you leave the spark plugs installed this will be easier, engine compression keeps the crankshaft from rotating. After those items are out of the way you can bolt to the engine stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great thanks! I think I've got a good picture on how I should do this now.
Kind of makes sense that it's this way, otherwise it would imply that the engine is in no way 'fixed' to the tranny...

Thanks,
Matthijs
 

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Pulled Engine

Another detail is the torque convertor, I always remove the convertor from the transmission if the motor is going to be out for more than a hour or so, because I was told many years ago that leaving the weight of the convertor hanging in the transmission would make the front transmission seal start leaking upon reassembly.
shane:D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, just one more thing (really! My hoist is in tomorrow, so it won't be much longer...). It is metioned to jack up the transmission to avoid stressing the input shaft. Does that mean I'll also have to unbolt the tranny from the mount? Or can I lift it enough with the play in the whole thing?
Also, can I just leave the tranny hanging under the car while rebuilding the engine (and after taking out the torque converter)?

Thanks,
Matthijs

P.S. I'm sorry, it turned out to be 2 more things :rolleyes:
 

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I have always pulled the engine / tranny out as one piece, cap the end of the tail housing,drop the tranny xmember, roll the car backward as the engine / tranny is raised up.
 

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LIfting

To do the complete removal, everything has to be taken loose...
Be careful, the hoist can tip foward if you have a load on it with the boom extended out, when you start to go up with the boom it will try to pull the whole lift foward causing the rear wheels to come off the floor.
FYI- in case you did not allready know this...
shane:D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey, thanks chaps. However I'm not lifting the whole, not that I don't want to, but I just don't have the room to do it. I can barely walk around my car right now. I found just enough space to get the engine out and then I have about 4-20 inches on 3 sides of the engine stand. Now too bad that doesn't fit a tranny nowadays... :rolleyes:

Thanks,
Matthijs
 

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Matthijs,
You can leave the transmission mount and shift linkage and speedo cable connected, just support it until the engine is out. Also there is no reason to disconnect the drive shaft or drain the transmission fluid.

After you are through playing with the engine some wire coat hangar material can be used to support the transmission from the cowl bolt holes for the shock tower braces. You can then remove the jack below the transmission and roll the car around if necessary. I have always left the torque converter installed, have done it for several months on different cars with no apparent problems. It won't hurt to take it out and inspect or replace the transmission seal though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Royce, I think In now really have a complete picture on how to pull this thing off (I know I've said that before...).
I'll keep you all updated on my adventures.

Thanks all, I could never pull this thing off without you all (still stuck with all the questions a chiltons doesn't answer, so that's where you all come in lol).

Cheers!
Matthijs
 
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