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Getting ready to replace all of my engine bay panels. Remove the first one, the left front one. If found something a little strange, and it appears to have happened on all of the panels. A PO had removed a square from each section of the adjacent shock tower where the engine bay apron/panel overlaps. In the pics below, you see the section that was removed. The reason I am replacing the panels is because they were welded (very badly) at all these locations on all panels.

1. I am thinking I will just weld in a square section (infill) at these locations. The replacement panel overlaps and will hide most of it... any thoughts on this?

2. I will be attaching new panels with new puddle welds as I don't have a spot welder. What side of the panels would be best? Drill a hole in one panel and puddle weld to the overlapped panel underneath? Best method?



 

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Brian,

Yes, put pieces in where the PO cut out squares in the shock tower edges. As for the best way to weld, make ~3/8" holes in the new panels and weld through to the shock towers, the towers are thicker metal and will take the rosette welding much better than the other way around. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
 

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What looks like the P/O did was remove areas where water and trash gather up and rust out. My car had a area on 1 side where it rusted out in the same spot and i did what bob just mentioned.

Thanks
pat
 

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I was thinking the same thing. Overlapping panels trap moisture.
 

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Brian,

Yes, put pieces in where the PO cut out squares in the shock tower edges. As for the best way to weld, make ~3/8" holes in the new panels and weld through to the shock towers, the towers are thicker metal and will take the rosette welding much better than the other way around. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Bob
This works well, but I use the burn thru, weld back method which when done correct, looks like spot weld!
 

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This works well, but I use the burn thru, weld back method which when done correct, looks like spot weld!
I've done a little of that too Carlton, but I am less sure how much penetration/attach I get to the underlying metal using that method. If perfected, seems like a great way to go though!
 
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