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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am the designer, builder and manufacturer of ELFI/SSIVR solutions for vintage Ford vehicles having a Low Fuel lamp.

The Electronic Low Fuel Indicator (ELFI) is a solution to restore proper (and improved!) functioning of your Low Fuel light. It consists of the ELFI, a Solid State Instrument Voltage Regulator (SSIVR) - which replaces the stock Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) which mounts on the back of your instrument cluster and supplies a regulated voltage to your gauge, and a two-wire cable which brings SSIVR voltage and fuel gauge signal to the ELFI from the fuel gauge in the cluster.

All that is required to use the ELFI solution is a working fuel gauge (which implies the gauge part of the fuel sender must work as well). The sender can be a standard fuel sender, new or used as long as it works or a low fuel sender with a bad low fuel sensor (the gauge rheostat must work). Any "working" sender, LF equipped or not.
The ELFI comes in two variations, the 67/68 version (SSIVR has spade terminals) or the 69-73 version (SSIVR has 9V battery terminals). For those who are good with electrical/wiring, the ELFI solution could even be added to vehicles without the LF light (add your own light and wire in the ELFI).

What is improved about the ELFI solutions are that "hysteresis" has been incorporated into the circuit. Hysteresis in this case means that when the fuel level gets down to the level which illuminates the LF lamp, the circuit will not extinguish the lamp until the fuel level is a couple of gallons above the level at which the light was turned on.

Here are a couple of slides I made up describing the ELFI solutions.







The kits are $110 shipped to the lower 48 from NJ. PM me to order or for questions.

Thanks,

Bob
 

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Morning Bob, It will be a while before I am ready for this however only question I have I recon is will this be notice able as an upgrade to my car by anyone other than me? Seems much more practical than trouble shooting the current problem and or fixing what I already have. Will the original wiring with the low fuel indicator still work in regards to the trunk wiring? And If i read correctly does this allow me to purchase any new sending unit for the tank, not just one set up for low fuel? Sounds like it would be better! and cheaper than fixing the old system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Harvey,

Nope, no one will be able to tell (unless they are going to be looking under your dash for the low fuel relay which will now be a ELFI!). And the stock connector at the sender works too, just plug the correct (one of the two) sockets in the connector onto the single stud of the non-LF sender. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Eureka!

Just a note that this afternoon I finished developing a mod for the ELFI circuit which ELIMINATES flashing of the LF lamp at threshold COMPLETELY. The mod involves introduction of a ~10 second delay to the fuel gauge signal the ELFI sees. In this way, the sloshing around of fuel affecting the light flashing is eliminated because the slosh does not last that long. This is an electronic version of much the way the fuel gauge works, it lumbers up or down slowly and does not respond to quickly changing readings (which is the reason the LF circuit original and original ELFI flashes at threshold). I have installed the modified prototype in Isabel and will test. Assuming all is well (which I am fairly confident it will be), the enhancement will be included in all ELFI units I sell from now on.

I would also be more than happy to modify anyones existing ELFI for a nominal fee to cover postage and a few small parts, like $10.

Regards,

Bob
 

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At what point in my reconstruction would I want to pick one of these up? Can I wait till I am starting to assemble the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
At what point in my reconstruction would I want to pick one of these up? Can I wait till I am starting to assemble the dash?
Harv,

The ELFI unit mounts behind the dash in place of the LF relay and the SSIVR on the back of the cluster, so yes when you are assembling the dash would be a good time.

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Re: Eureka!

Just a note that this afternoon I finished developing a mod for the ELFI circuit which ELIMINATES flashing of the LF lamp at threshold COMPLETELY. The mod involves introduction of a ~10 second delay to the fuel gauge signal the ELFI sees. In this way, the sloshing around of fuel affecting the light flashing is eliminated because the slosh does not last that long. This is an electronic version of much the way the fuel gauge works, it lumbers up or down slowly and does not respond to quickly changing readings (which is the reason the LF circuit original and original ELFI flashes at threshold). I have installed the modified prototype in Isabel and will test. Assuming all is well (which I am fairly confident it will be), the enhancement will be included in all ELFI units I sell from now on.

I would also be more than happy to modify anyones existing ELFI for a nominal fee to cover postage and a few small parts, like $10.

Regards,

Bob
Update:

Results with an enhanced unit installed in Isabel look VERY good, I cannot make the light flash by shaking the car on the lift at all. Approximately 10 seconds of sustained low reading is now required in order to turn the LF lamp on. Likewise, approximately 10 seconds of sustained reading above the low fuel threshold is required in order to turn the LF lamp off.

Jody (jshcobra) will be receiving his enhanced unit in the next day or so and will give us the daily driver perspective. Expecting great things.

Regards,

Bob
 

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1969XR7Vert-

I just purchased this ELFI kit via West Coast Classic Cougar Inc. After reading the enclosed instructions that came with the kit, I was left scratching my head. Before I proceed with the installation, I have a few questions and would GREATLY appreciate some assistance from you, or anyone else that has first hand knowledge with the installation of this particular low fuel level electronic conversion kit. Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Questions? Shoot!
 

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First of all, I would like to say "GREAT JOB" with the development and production of this electronic conversion kit. Now, comes the questions...

1. In step 7, it states "pull the thermistor terminal from the connector. Insulate the removed thermistor/wire with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing." Upon pulling the thermistor terminal from the connector, there are actually two wires (a green with white stripe wire and a white wire) attached to this single terminal. This white wire is also connected to the blue wire with red stripe which is attached to a single terminal in the connector as well. Do I insulate both wires attached to this single terminal?

2. In step 8, it states "plug the Faston terminal of the White wire from the supplied harness into the location in the connector the thermistor wire was just removed from." Unfortunately I did not receive a White wire. The harness that I received with the kit contains a red & black wire, however, I do not believe it is long enough to reach the back of the instrument panel from the low fuel relay location.

3. Lastly, I am not using the stock instrument panel. My entire instrument cluster has been replaced with a Dakota Digital VHX cluster for the '67-68 Ford Mustang. The gas gauge feeds from the stock yellow with white stripe wire. As a result, of not having or using the stock Instrument Voltage Regulator, I will need to mount the SSIVR in another location. Moreover, in step 6, it states "Plug the instrument cluster wiring harness Faston terminals onto the SSIVR." Unfortunately, I'm stuck and need to know how to proceed. Your assistance and willingness to share your wealth of knowledge regarding the installation of this conversion kit is GREATLY appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
1. Yes.

2. The black wire.

3. You need to mount the SSIVR to a grounded piece of metal or at least connect a ground wire to the mounting hole of the SSIVR. Then, you need to provide 12V to the input to the SSIVR (male faston). To the SSIVR output (the terminal with the female faston adapter), connect the red of the ELFI two wire harness. Connect the black wire of the ELFI two wire harness to the stock yellow with white tracer.

BTW, if the DD dash has a 5V DC power supply available, you could forgo the SSIVR and connect the red wire of the ELFI harness to that 5V supply (this is what the SSIVR produces).

I assume from what you have written that you have a 67/68 Cougar?

Hope this helps, let me know if you have further questions.

Regards,

Robert
 

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Thanks Robert for answering my questions, and helping me to get my wires straight:) I will attempt to finish up this ELFI project tomorrow. And yes, you are correct...I have a '67 XR7 Cougar that I picked up almost 18 months ago. Since then, I have gone through every inch of the car, building it as my long distance cruiser. As a result of the restomods, I have suffered through more than my fair share of hairballs on this project:)


Thanks again for the help!!!
 

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Robert-

Can I safely assume that the ELFI unit is grounded as well, once it has been mounted in place of the Low Fuel Level Relay? Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, I just happen to be one of those types who would rather be safe than sorry. THX!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Robert-

Can I safely assume that the ELFI unit is grounded as well, once it has been mounted in place of the Low Fuel Level Relay? Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, I just happen to be one of those types who would rather be safe than sorry. THX!
Correct !
 

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Robert-

After 18 months, I finally started my Cougar for the first time last week. After taking care of some minor issues, the car should be road worthy. Anyhow, I finally installed your electronic low fuel indicator, and unfortunately it does not work, or at least not for me. Before I started the installation, I put in a new bulb in the fuel indicator and tested it, which checked good. After installing your kit, the light did not come on with the key in the start position, or with the key in the on position with the engine running. Right now, I have less than 1/4 of a tank and the light is not illuminated. Any ideas and/or troubleshooting procedures I can try?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, something very basic is wrong. Check for 12V on that terminal of the ELFI with the key on. Then, check for 12V on the ST terminal with the ignition in the start position.

When you say you put a new bulb in the LF indicator and "it worked", do you mean the "check out" (lights when ignition is in start position)?

Respond with answers to these questions and we can go from there. Have no fear, we will get you going!

Regards,

Robert
 

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voltage is good - 11.97

before I started this conversion, I installed a new bulb and tested it by jumping the green wire on the original relay to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Please contact me by PM (rather than posting on this thread) so I am sure to get your message in a timely fashion.

In a PM to me, please answer all of the following:

You said you have ~12V on the 12V terminal of the ELFI, is that with the ignition in the Run position? No voltage when the ignition is in the Off position?

What is the voltage on the ST with the ignition in the Start and Run and Off positions?

What is the voltage on the SSIVR terminal with the ignition in the Run position?

What is the voltage on the Gauge terminal with the ignition in the Run position?

Do you have the (ELFI) mounted (or a grounded wire attached to one of the mounting holes)?

Regards,

Robert
 

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Re: Eureka!

I have a '68 XR-7 with a low fuel light that actually WORKS! However, I would like to get away from the 3 wire system that goes into the tank. Most performance type senders don't have it. I have a solid state 5v. power supply in the dash, would this have to be replaced if I use your device?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As long as the supply is sufficiently accurate (5%), a supply other than the SSIVR should work fine.
 
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