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STA terminal on the alternator was good enough for Ford factory electric chokes........
 

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I believe the reason for using the STA terminal is so that the choke only has power when the engine is creating heat. Don't forget the purpose of a choke - to help keep the engine running while cold.
If you wire to the fuse block or any circuit that is ON with the key then you have the possibility that the choke will be wide open on a car that has been setting and cooling while the owner was listening to the radio, sipping his coffee while the (stalled) car warms up, etc. With the old heat tube automatic chokes that was no problem.
In short, what you want is no heat to the motor = no heat to the choke. Electrically this is done by wiring off the STA terminal.
 

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Went through the same thing trying to find a place to hook it up..doing tests and all with multimeters and wiring and grounding...put it on the altenator stat and it worked perfect first time...i heard that they used to come from the factory like that from reading many posts!!!!!
 

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Ok I agree, connect the Electric Choke to the STA post on the back of the ALT. Just like I have now on my HOLLEY (for years) and will for the new Edelbrock carb. The question is and only touched on in the thread. Should the wire be fused. There was mention of 10 amp fuse, how's that working. My STA wire is not currently fused. And to think about it the choke is, well a somewhat shorted device. If it fails it should become less shorted, open circuit. So should there be a fuse? To protect the Altenator, but from what, an open. Thoughts...

E=RxI or I=E/R
 

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I just installed a new Holley 600 Model 4160 on my 1967 Cougar. This is a Quote from the instructions:
Mr. Carbtunes Hints:
"Tips on hooking up the Electronic Choke 12V Power wire. This wire must be hooked up to a 12 volt power supply that is switched on and off with the ignition switch for the choke to function properly. Proper places to get 12 volt switched power include: Fuse panel, ignition switch, (must install 10 amp fuse), or accessory power terminals. Do not tap into any power source connected to the ignition coil or distributor, as this may cause misfiring and starting problems. Also please be aware that most O.E. choke connections are not a full 12 volts."
 

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Here we go again...

I suggest you read the thread from the beginning and then see if you still agree with Mr. Carbtunes. If you do, that's just fine. If you change your mind, then you have learned something.
 

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Don't get me wrong:) I learn alot here. I was just telling what the intructions say. I wired the choke to the solenoid. It reads 11 volts when running and evrything is fine and dandy.
 

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Not to beat a dead horse, but the I post on the starter solenoid is there to supply 12 volts to the coil circuit during cranking (it serves as a bypass the resistor wire). The voltage you see there during run is actually coming from the ignition circuit (back feed from the coil wire). This is oe of the problems that the instructions call out. If you are getting 12 volts here, while the engine is running, you are probably getting close to 15 volts maybe higher at the battery, or the resistor wire has been removed from the coil circuit. These are all important things to know, and they can all impact other ignition components.

Do not tap into any power source connected to the ignition coil or distributor, as this may cause misfiring and starting problems.
 

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Just looked at mine it has the one larger wire and 3 smaller ones . One small one looks like a ground to the back of the alternator . I will have to pull it out to read the designations on the posts . But hope fully this will correct a hose stuck in there to hold the choke open . I can remember in the 60's and 70's some chokes heated up fast and some slower then others .
 

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Off the alternator. There's a spare terminal, can't recall the abbreviation but I believe it's the black coded one. Only powered when the key is on and it's real close by.
 

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Off the alternator. There's a spare terminal, can't recall the abbreviation but I believe it's the black coded one. Only powered when the key is on and it's real close by.
Labeled "STA" for stator, but incorrect, there is only power there when the engine is running.
 

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When I bought my car it was attached to the coil. I replaced the coil and distributor to get a better spark but did go and attach the choke to the coil again. I have not noticed any issues with it set up this way but do know that it is advised to not do it this way. The wire is the perfect length for this hook up and have not had any mechanics that have worked on the car say anything negative about running it this way, one even said that is the way he does them. So for what it's worth, I run mine to coil and it seems to be just fine.
 

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Ok, being that I am switching carb's, I get the 10amp fuse but I didn't see anywhere mentioned what gauge wire, 16/14/12 ? :smoke:
 

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please ignore previous brain fart post on wire size :evil:
 

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I put my electric choke wire off of the STA port on the Alternator, and it works great. thanks Jim.................. Mike MacLeod
 

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Good job Mike! I was expecting to read the new post on this thread with another person saying they did it one of the other ways.
 

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Use a modern relay circuit. You can buy them at any auto parts store for only $6. The get power directly from the battery at 12v and don't rob power from accessorys. I used one to run my electric fuel pump and another for the choke on my street demon carb that requires 12v. search the internet on how to wire one up.
 

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Use a modern relay circuit. You can buy them at any auto parts store for only $6. The get power directly from the battery at 12v and don't rob power from accessorys. I used one to run my electric fuel pump and another for the choke on my street demon carb that requires 12v. search the internet on how to wire one up.
You obviously do not understand the reason to run off the STA terminal of the alternator.
 

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On my Holley install, I ran the hot wire directly to the STA terminal on my alternator with a fuse in between and it works great.


It makes sense to do it this way so when the engine isn't running, the choke isn't heating up - even if you have your ignition switch on RUN for whatever reason.


I actually adjusted it to stay on choke a little longer than from the factory.


Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
 
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