On my first fire tonight, the Holley electric choke conversion worked flawlessly connected to the stator terminal of the alternator. I think we've got a keeper here, at least for me!
You only want 12V (or whatever the voltage) WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING and this is precisely what the Stator terminal provides. What I am trying to point out is your method will not work UNLESS THE ENGINE IS RUNNING when you measure for voltage.You only want 12v when the key is on, not all the time. as what I was toldor your choke will be open all the time.
For full-wave rectified DC (unfiltered):i am still trying to figure out the 7 volt thing that some of you are getting. It looks like it might be the output that is either pulsed dc that averages 7 volts, or it may be the output of a half wave rectifier. I want to get a scope on the output so i can see what is happening.
not sure what you mean. i hooked it up like Edlebrock recommended - to a source that has 12v power when the key is on and the engine is running. the butterfly valve closes when it's cold and the 12v heat up the bimetal spring allowing the valve to open when it's warm. and all my lights, turn signals, warnings etc work. that seemed to be a problem for vidro. 'course, that was eight years ago. just sayin............."fine-", sure. That is if you don't mind the choke opening anytime the key is on, whether the engine is running or not...
that is a true statement Bill. are you saying that is a problem? is there a concern that if you left the key in ACC for a long time it would drain the battery?The operative term is "while the engine is running" The wire you re using is hot anytime the key is in the run position, and also in the accessory position (I can't think of any fuse box circuit that is not hot in the accessory position, but I may be wrong).
if anyone is interested, i just got off the phone with Edelbrock. they do NOT recommend using the coil, alternator or starter relay. they don't have a problem with the fuse box, except that, as Bill pointed out, in ACC the bimetal spring is heated up and could burn out if left on for a long time. the difference between heating up the spring with the engine off or the engine running, is that with the engine running there is a vacuum tube that keeps the spring from getting too hot. so says Edelbrock, fwiw-that is a true statement Bill. are you saying that is a problem? is there a concern that if you left the key in ACC for a long time it would drain the battery?