Mercury Cougar Owners banner

41 - 60 of 82 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
On my first fire tonight, the Holley electric choke conversion worked flawlessly connected to the stator terminal of the alternator. I think we've got a keeper here, at least for me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Mine is connected to the stator terminal, but, when the engine is running, there is only 7 volts at the choke element.
It works okay but takes a lot longer to open and won't open fully the way it did when hooked to a 12 volt source.
Takes some adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
This subject comes up numerous times here at cougar.net.
Here is what I did and it works fine.
Make sure the car ignition is off.
Take a voltmeter and on the back of the altinator there are 3 posts that are wired to the harness. The big one-ignore it. The other 2 are little. With the voltmeter grounded, take the red lead and find the post with NO current.(one will show 12v and the other '0') When you find the one with '0'v go back and turn the ignition on and touch the same post. It should read 12v now. That is the one you want to wire to the electric choke on your carb.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
Craig, that is not how the stator connection works. Engine no runny - no voltagey. Engine runny - voltagey.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
You only want 12v when the key is on, not all the time. as what I was toldor your choke will be open all the time.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
You only want 12v when the key is on, not all the time. as what I was toldor your choke will be open all the time.
You only want 12V (or whatever the voltage) WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING and this is precisely what the Stator terminal provides. What I am trying to point out is your method will not work UNLESS THE ENGINE IS RUNNING when you measure for voltage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,633 Posts
I know this is confusing, but if you have a standard, you WILL measure voltage there as it is the backfeed from the charge light in the dash, so long as the bulb is good. With an XR7, you won't see voltage there untill the alternator is making output voltage.

I am still trying to figure out the 7 volt thing that some of you are getting. It looks like it might be the output that is either pulsed DC that averages 7 volts, or it may be the output of a half wave rectifier. I want to get a scope on the output so I can see what is happening.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
7 Volts or not, I didn't even have to mess with the "straight up" initial setting of the electric choke conversion on my Holley 4777. Awesome.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
i am still trying to figure out the 7 volt thing that some of you are getting. It looks like it might be the output that is either pulsed dc that averages 7 volts, or it may be the output of a half wave rectifier. I want to get a scope on the output so i can see what is happening.
For full-wave rectified DC (unfiltered):

Vrms = Vp/sqr2; 12v * .707 = 8.4V

Vdc = Vavg = 2Vp/pi; 24/3.14 = 7.4V

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier#Half-wave_rectification
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
I run with the choke wire from my 1406 edelbrock electric choke to the back of my alternator to the stat terminal. Has been run this way for years. It only supplies 7 volts or so to it (and it only draws 1/2 the usual current) but it does work the choke just fine. It takes a little longer time for the choke to turn off but not that long. Remember to check the voltage when the car is running. After all, that is the only time you need the power to the choke bimetal element.
John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
vidro - fwiw, i just installed this kit on my Edelbrock Performer 1405. hooked it up to a switched fuse on the fuse box. everything works fine-
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,577 Posts
vidro - fwiw, i just installed this kit on my Edelbrock Performer 1405. hooked it up to a switched fuse on the fuse box. everything works fine-
"fine-", sure. That is if you don't mind the choke opening anytime the key is on, whether the engine is running or not...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
"fine-", sure. That is if you don't mind the choke opening anytime the key is on, whether the engine is running or not...
not sure what you mean. i hooked it up like Edlebrock recommended - to a source that has 12v power when the key is on and the engine is running. the butterfly valve closes when it's cold and the 12v heat up the bimetal spring allowing the valve to open when it's warm. and all my lights, turn signals, warnings etc work. that seemed to be a problem for vidro. 'course, that was eight years ago. just sayin.............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,633 Posts
The operative term is "while the engine is running" The wire you re using is hot anytime the key is in the run position, and also in the accessory position (I can't think of any fuse box circuit that is not hot in the accessory position, but I may be wrong).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
The operative term is "while the engine is running" The wire you re using is hot anytime the key is in the run position, and also in the accessory position (I can't think of any fuse box circuit that is not hot in the accessory position, but I may be wrong).
that is a true statement Bill. are you saying that is a problem? is there a concern that if you left the key in ACC for a long time it would drain the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
that is a true statement Bill. are you saying that is a problem? is there a concern that if you left the key in ACC for a long time it would drain the battery?
if anyone is interested, i just got off the phone with Edelbrock. they do NOT recommend using the coil, alternator or starter relay. they don't have a problem with the fuse box, except that, as Bill pointed out, in ACC the bimetal spring is heated up and could burn out if left on for a long time. the difference between heating up the spring with the engine off or the engine running, is that with the engine running there is a vacuum tube that keeps the spring from getting too hot. so says Edelbrock, fwiw-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,633 Posts
I used to have a buddy at Edelbrock in tech support. According to him, they don't recommend the alternator because most of the sales are to Chevy guys with one wire alternators, so they don't have the stator output to begin with. So they would most likely end up using the wrong connection and end up with a dead battery. I am not saying this to contradict what they told you, only to share what I have also heard.
 
41 - 60 of 82 Posts
Top