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I think I'm with Paul on this one. Next time I work on
my car I'm going to move the wire to the STA post on the alt.
Now if Royce would just chime in on thie post I would feel
much better!!

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I've notice reference to the "sta" being the small wire not the big wire. I have 4 post on the back of my alternator, 3 small wires, one bigger wire. I know that one of the small wires is ground, so one of the other two should be the "sta" post. Is there a identifying I should be looking at?
I have not taken the alternator off yet?
 

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Yes it says STA on back of alt. DO NOT hook to fat wire!
 

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Dredging up the past...

Hey Vidro,

I'm just about to put in a 100 amp alternator, and thought I'd also take a look at changing over the electric choke wire while I'm under there...

Did you hook up your edelbrock electric choke to the stator wire on the alternator? I'm asking again because I have the same setup, and want to make sure before I switch things over that the STA terminal puts out enough voltage to operate the choke correctly.

Seems to me that less voltage/current would mean a slower-opening choke.
 

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On the OEM-style alternators there is a terminal labeled "STA". This works fine for electric choke power, and is where the 70's Fords provided electric choke power. I just installed an internally-regulated 75-1mp alternator in my car using a Ron Morris Performance adapter harness. One of the thin wires hooks to a terminal labeled STA on this alternator. I spliced into this wire to power my electric choke and have had no problems.
 

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Good info here on how to connect an electric choke element, best to Alternator Stator which is in the upper right of the following picture of a standard style alternator (albiet a chrome one in my case!). Most alternators have an "S" in the casting next to the terminal.

 

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Thinnking of fuses....

What size fuse would you install to run the electric choke on?
I know it's an ancient question. I use a 10-amp fuse in this line.
 

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In the manual for Edelbrock el. choke carbs it´s stated that the choke must not be hooked up to the STA terminal on the alt
 

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In the manual for Edelbrock el. choke carbs it´s stated that the choke must not be hooked up to the STA terminal on the alt
Oops. Too late.....
 

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Oops. Too late.....
There are posts in the thread that suggest some elements will not work on the less than 12V present at the stator. I am somewhat skeptical about that and would try it (as yelo apparently has done, successfully) and see. I suspect most if not all elements will work just fine, just a little different adjustment perhaps to work with the heat that the lower voltage produces and the corresponding bimetallic element lesser change in shape.
 

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Actually, I think if you check it says not to connect at the coil. IF you measure the voltage at the choke you will see that you are getting 12 volts at the stator terminal when the car is running, so long as the alternator is charging.
 

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Actually, I think if you check it says not to connect at the coil. IF you measure the voltage at the choke you will see that you are getting 12 volts at the stator terminal when the car is running, so long as the alternator is charging.
And there you have it!
 

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Actually, I think if you check it says not to connect at the coil. IF you measure the voltage at the choke you will see that you are getting 12 volts at the stator terminal when the car is running, so long as the alternator is charging.
Well i was a bit wrong, it do not say to not hook it up to the STA terminal, but however in the installation instructions on the latest Edelbrock carb i bought, it clearly says to hook up the el choke to a keyed 12V source, and furthermore with bold typing, not coil or alternator
 

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Jan, The big mistake that some people make when hooking it up to the alternator is that they use the the main power wire. This doesn't work because it is not switched. A switched 12 volt output works great, the thing that makes the Stator output better is that there is no voltage there until the engine is running. What happens some times is that wtih a 12 volt switched out put, the heating element in the electric choke starts to get hot as soon as you turn on the key. So while the engine is cranking over to start, the choke is already starting to warm up. In really cold weather this is a problem as the choke is starting to release at the very time you need maximum choke to get it lit off.
 

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Leon, the car has to be running and the alternator charging to get to 12 volts. Are you running a stock alternator and voltage regulator?
 

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Leon, the car has to be running and the alternator charging to get to 12 volts. Are you running a stock alternator and voltage regulator?
I'll check the reading again but it was on both 428 and 68 302 with engine running - stock alternator but electronic regulator. Might take a couple of weeks to check as both are in bits. Both are Holley electric choke conversion units
 

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This might be the answer. Does it sound feasible?

The factory choke gets hooked to the "S" terminal of the alternator. The output of this terminal is AC. If you try to get a voltage reading using the DC scale of your VOM it'll read something like six or seven volts.
This is fine for the original factory carb. it was designed to run with this voltage, however, if its an aftermarket carb, the choke on these is designed to run w/ 12v DC.
 

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Nope, the typical function of the S out put is to provide alternator voltage to the ALT light in the dash, If the output of the Alternator is only 6 volts the ALT light should be glowing as there would be a 6 volt difference between the battery voltage and the output voltage of the alternator. And there is no AC output from an alternator that is working properly. There are three diodes on the stator coil output. The total voltage swing would also be 24 volts (-12 volts to +12volts) if you were looking at an AC output.
 
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