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Discussion Starter #1
I’m putting an Elebrock carb with electronic choke on a 67 289 4v. After running the hot wire to the accessory fuse at the fuse block I lost my backup lights and shift indicator lights. I disconnect the wire I get the lights back. The lights do run off this circuit but I’m wondering why I would lose the lights just because of the choke wire.
Is there a better place in the fuse block to attach the choke lead?
 

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I run mine from the 12V output on the voltage regulator. fused, of course. No problems.
 

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The wire for the electric choke should only come on with the ignition on. Cars equipped with electric choke from the factory had it coming off the alternator.
 

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Hmmmm...where were you guys when I was hooking up MY Edelbrock electric choke? Oh well, I ran mine off the switched post on the back of the ignition switch. How was I to know there was a way to wire it without crawling under the dashboard yet again... :(
 

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I run mine off of the hot wire on the coil. I would think it would be the same because it is only at 12 volts when it's on and the wire is only 12" long now.
 

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If the hot wire to the coil is still a resistor wire the voltage will drop. The heating element in the choke will speed up the voltage drop (increase resistance) and affect the strength of sparks generated by the coil.
 

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So is what Jim K saying the best alternative, connecting it to the STA post off of the alternator?
 

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On my Holley, we initially ran the hot wire to the hot side of the coil -- that kept the car from running because it dropped the voltage enough to prevent triggering in the electronic pickup in the Accel distributor.
Remember that for an electric choke, there is current CONSTANTLY running through the bi-metal strip with little resistance, so yes, that would be more than enough to keep your lights from working. Remember, electricity flows along the path of least resistance - if there are multiple paths of similar resistance, all paths will get some current, but if one of the paths is significantly lower resistance -- like a copper wire to ground vs. a light bulb -- all or nearly all of the current will use that path -- it's called a 'short circuit'. You may have heard of them, they suck.
I'd recommend either the STA post of alternator or the high-current, switched side of the starter solenoid on the fender wall (which is basically the other end of the wire connected to the STA post, right?)
 

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Several items here. 1) coils are not to get 12V they are to get ~8V which is what the pink res wire is all about. 2) never ever ever connect anything to coil wires other than coil 3) the "correct" PU for hot feed to electric choke is from the stator terminal on back of alt. This prevents current from heating the thermostat up when engine stalls, again this is about 7V. Unsure what "switched side" ison solenoid. There is either starter side or battery side neither of which are switched. The first peg on solenoid is for start current to engage the starter the second (brown) pole is for backfeeding current to ign when starter is engaged as the ign switch disengages all current in S position to everything other than the S terminal on solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I appreciate all the feed back.
It seems what the install manual says not to do is basically what everyone sounds like they have done.
It states “NOT to wire to the coil or alternator” but to an “accessory circuit”.
Well, let’s see now, I wired to an accessory circuit and it knocks out my lights, the rest of the world wires to the coil or the alternator and it seems to work fine.
Maybe I should have just stuck with looking at the pictures and avoided the wordy parts of the manual.
 

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Hey Vidro...I may be the lonely cry in the wilderness, but again, I hooked mine up to the switched post on the back of the ignition switch...which is essentially the accessory circuit. It works just fine on my '67. No problems whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For give me but I’m not sure if I understand what I would be looking for “switched post” could you clarify, may be a wire color I could follow o the post?
The PO did splice a wire in to one of the wires going to the switch, this to by-pass the neutral safety switch. Do you think that would work?
 

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Use a test light to see if it is hot when the ignition is on. If so, fuse it and use it!!
 

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ok I hope this is my last post on this matter. One the 67 ignition is completely different than 69/70 etc so no post on rear of the switch if yours is a year other than 67/8. Two your manual says not to connect to alt. What this means is not to connect it to the alt heavy fat hi V wire. "If" you were to look at some wiring diagrams you will find the correct feed for electric choke is alt STA post and nothing else. Switched current will not feed choke correctly if engine is off or stalls. When engine stalls and wire connected to stator V is stopped as well and no more voltage going to choke means it don't open when its not supposed to. This is not accomplished using any acc switched source ONLY sta will provide current when engine is on and none when engine is off. Acc will hot feed while sitting listening to radio etc and drain down battery shorten life of electric choke etc making engine/choke think its warm when its cold from sitting..
Several have asked me why I have the views I do. Quite simply I prefer stock/correct locations as it seems abundantly clear to me that aftermarket mfgs don't entirely "get" what an electric choke is supposed to do and how its supposed to do it. Take a look at any Ford wiring diagram for say post 1970 w/electric choke and you will find what I have said Ford gets current to electric choke from stator terminal on back of alt and nowhere else.
 

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That's what I figured from my recollection of the setup on my old 78 Zephyr. Had to trace the circuit for some reason and that's where it led to. Just couldn't remember which terminal it was on the alt, just knew it was a skinny wire.
Thanks, Ray, for your practical, realistic approach to things.
 

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I dispise splicing into existing wires...just a personal quirk though (one of many :lol: ) but it would depend on what the purpose of the circuit was...if it's only hot when the ignition is on, then you're good to go!

What I did, was took my trusty circuit tester, connected the ground wire to a good ground, then with the ignition key off, looked for a "dead" post on the back of the ignition switch (as I recall, there are 2-3 posts back there, at least on my '67 switch, which is NOS a while back). Then switched the key on to the "run" position (of course, you don't need to go to START position) and then checked to see if the post now had the 12V current. The goal here is just to find the post that is only "hot" when the key is in the "run" position. If you connect it to the post that is always hot (i.e., the one the cigar lighter is connected to) that won't work, 'cause, of course, your choke would always be wide open (and you'd likely drain the battery ;) )
 

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I have to admit, now that I read the thread, I am tempted to change my connection to the stator terminal on the alternator (mind you, there is a difference between "tempted" and "motivated" *LOL* - I'll probably wait until I have a good reason to crawl under the dash again...and un-do all the wire conduit I just cleaned up my engine harness with *sigh*).

Mostly for the reasons cited by Ray...it would be nice to sit and run the radio without having my choke slowly open while the engine is off! *L*

Plus, to be honest, Yelo has sent a shiver up my spine, 'cause now I can't remember if I fused the wire to my choke...though I think the wire it came with DOES have a fuse...now I have to go look.

Sheesh...how often the "helper" becomes the "helpee" on this board :lol:
 
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