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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to put together some notes from my install of electric Headlight doors and the H4/H1 Bulb conversion. Searched the forums alot and there are many threads with different kinds of information but not one with everything. This is not a step by step build but may have the helpful information in one place that is scattered throughout the forum.

I refinished my Grill at the same time as updating the lights and the headlight doors.
I had the grill bars rechromed and the the buckets/pot metal sandblasted and painted with a wheel paint in low gloss black.

Taped the front edge of the chrome bars and sprayed the sides in low gloss black to match.

I made the headlight brackets from the TCCN guide out of .10" sheet and it is sturdy enough. Milled the slots, welded them together and a coat of low gloss black.

I used two motor from a 93-94 Ford Probe and used the smaller linkage arms on my install.

For the large linkage arms I used 5/16" Rod end bearings and all-thread to have completely adjustable arms to fine tune the door height. I turned down 3/8" shoulder bolts to 5/16" so I could use the 5/16"-18 thread on the 3/8" shoulder bolt.

I mounted the motors the highest in the slots they can be to avoid the small arm hitting the mounting bolts to the buckets.

Note: I drilled and tapped the mounting holes for each motor with a 5/16"-18 tap so I did not have to use long bolts to go all the way through the motor frames. This allowed me to only have to tighten the bolt head side and not a nut end as well. Use a head bolt without split washers so they do no interfere with the rotating arm.

Once I mounting the motors, I installed the headlight doors and adjusted the rod end bearings to remove all slack from the system. I did not use door stops. The only way to get away from door stops is to remove all slack from the system. I do not use the door springs either.

I already had completed the relay installion for the head light doors previously.

I have a CAD drawing I made of the brackets I can upload here as well.

For the H1 H4 conversion:
I already had the relay conversion done which is a must. I used the following lights from ebay and are happy with them so far with the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330560901538?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

They were direct drop in from the sealed beams and I had no issues installing them. The hi/lo plugs in direct to our harness and the high beam just needs two spade connectors to hook up.

Here are some pictures from the install:






 

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Very nice job. I'd really like to do this too, but I haven't had the time to make the brackets. Interested in making another pair?
 

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Thanks. My winter project is to do the same with the probe motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will get a video of them opening and closing, they are very quiet and with no stops, there is no ending clank.
 

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Well done Tyler, I like how straight the headlight covers are. Did you strengthen the headlight buckets at all?
 

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Good job Tyler.

Please upload the CAD file for the bracket.
 

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Tyler, I went to the "TCCN" site and didn't see the info and after you went through the different stuff out there about the electric conversion, which one's did you find applied to what you did? Can you post the links to them. Im thinking, since you said that there isn't a complete instructional guide, maybe this one could be and put up as a "sticky". Also, with using no springs or stops, are the doors ridged or do they bounce or vibrate around with bumps or the vibration of the engine?
If not this is better than all the others in my book and really needs to be the final end to the, how to on electric doors. Im sure as well that if the doors were to open quickly, that there could be a resistor put in line to drop the voltage to the motors to slow them down, if they would retain the power to still do the job of opening up and closing the doors. Then the action of the doors would still retain the look of using vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got my rod ends ordered today and the threaded stuff as well. Do you remember how long the rod is?

Leon I used 5/16" Rod end bearing, and I used 5/16"-24 all thread. I cut the two shafts to 2.75" in length. Overall center-to-center length, I started at 4.625" and adjust from there based upon mounting height of motors, etc.

One key to it is to make the small arm parallel to the long arm when the door are closed before tightening the short arm ot the motor. I did this by loosely bolting the small arm to the motor and with the door connected by the long arm, stretched the two arms to be parallel and then tightened down the 9/16" motor shaft bolt. THis gives you a lot of throw on opening and closing the doors so that the doors completely clear the lights.
 

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This is awesome. Excellent write up, great design, just awesome. I would love to make the switch to electrical but am not in a position to do any welding. If you ever plan to produce these plates and arms to make a fairly straightforward drop-in kit (leaving us to pick up our own electrical components) please let us know. I'd love to buy the hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Tyler, again great work!
The material is .100 thick?
Where did you get the 5/16" Rod end bearings?
Thanks
Got the rod end bearings from a local speed shop, but you can always try mcmaster carr, msc or grainger.

Yes, I used .101" material, but the write up calls for .125". I dont have any issues with rigidity.
 
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