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Discussion Starter #1
OK,

I want to get an electric fan to go infront of the radiator for my 68 std. coupe. What is the best size and RPM to get? Has anyone installed them before?...did it cool your car down? Is 1 big fan better than 2 small fans? And what should i expect to pay for an electric fan for my car?

I want to get an electric fan so i can cool my car down when it gets hot on those extra hot days around here.

thanks,

-Dave
 

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DK,
i think some will agree a puller fan will keep the engine cooler then a pusher.Because your drawing the air into the engine instead of pushing it in.Why is a puller better then a pusher.Well figure this. Take a deep breath of cold air thats how the fan works instead of pushing cold air its sucking cold air.
thanks
pat
 

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I don't have one on mine (yet) but I installed one on my dad's streetrod. I feel one big one is better than two small ones. I spent around 100 bucks for it and got it from one of the Street Rod Manufacturers. Can't remember who though. I know Vintage Air sells them too. But, don't rule out a boneyard item. Any newer car came with them from the factory and will be cheaper.

If you are going to keep the mechanical fan then get the temperature switch which will turn it on at your desired temp. If you eliminate the mechanical fan, then it is best to mount the electric one on the engine side of the radiator so as not to block any natural airflow coming through the grill. Most electric fans can run as a pusher or a puller depending on whether you reverse the wires or not. But beware, some have a "swirl" blade design to move more air and won't work going the other direction.

Hope this helps.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok cool,

yeah that helped alot actually. i see what you both are saying by pulling the air in instead of puching it in. Its all up in the air still because i need to find out where my car is generating this heat it supposedly has. After like an hour of driving my cars temp gauge is all the way to H... is that normal??? So i figured an electric fan would solve this problem. I have flushed the radiator and cleaned the junk out of the lines so its either the car is really getting hot or the guage is crap and likes to lie to me.

-Dave
 

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We have a shop truck where the gauge is pegged almost all the time but it never overheats. I had a faulty sending unit in my Cat for a while. It was showing the gauge barely registering. I am not running an electric fan yet because I have a big block radiator even though I'm running a 351W. The car runs very cool although, this summer will be the first season running this combination WITH the air-conditioning functioning. So I'll just have to wait and see.

Mark
 

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DK
if its in the H are you running a 50/50 mix? (50%antifreze 50% water) what size is your thermostat? You using a fan shroud? My engine use to run really hot when i didnt have a fan shroud and a correct temperature thermostat, after changing both my car runs at a normal temperature. But i also added a 7 blade clutch fan setup on it as well, which is better then the conventional style 5 blade standard fan.
thanks
pat
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey droptopcat,

Yeah i'm running 50-50. My thermostat is one for 160 degrees. No fan shroud though- ihave no idea where to get one and i've never seen one for my car. My stock fan has only 4 blades on it but i have an aftermarket one i could put on thats 6 blades. hopefully the picture works out on what that looks like. One solution might be to get a heat gun i guess and check out where its hot....if it really is. Know any good spots to get a fan shroud?...online?

hey local hero,
Hopefully my gauge works, but then again hopefully my car isn't running as hot as it says. I've had the needle sit on H usually. (must be nice to have air-conditioning). My car has never over heated though like your truck.


-Dave
 

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You need to first figure out if it is hot. Why do you have such a low t-stat in it? That is of no advantage to you... That could be part of the problem. After driving for a while and all the water gets warm (hot, over 160) then it will tend to stay open all the time which wont allow the water in the radiator to cool because it is moving too fast. You should invest in a manual/live (not electric) temp guage to see where it really is running. I would go with at least a 180 stat also. Putting on the fans wont fix it if the is a problem (I think that there probably is) it may hide it for a while... You may have a junk radiator. Flushing it wont clean it if it has deposits built up inside. The only way to fix that is take it out and take it to a radiator shop. I think you should get the guage and start investigating the real problem further...
Scott
 

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Assuming you have a properly functioning cooling system, you could use a 12" pusher for when you are you are running a/c. This will help in slow traffic on hot days when engin rpm isn't high enough to generate sufficient flow through the radiator

The other option is a 16" push or pull (preferable) working off a temperature switch in the lower radiator tank - sensing from this position will compensate for any changes in performance in cooling system

The Cleveland performance guys in Oz use a single 16" pusher fan with performance engines in local falcons, although dual 12" pushers are becoming popular (one connected to a/c and both to temperature switch)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Itow, yeah i thought that having a 160 degree thermostat was a good idea. I put it in about 2 years ago i think. I'll consider changing it based on what you said and see if there's a difference in temp. I did take the radiator out one time last year and had the rods or whatever they're called cleaned out.

Hey leon,
I see what you're saying about the heavy traffic and running A/C. The thing.... i dont have A/C.(lucky me) But you did spark an idea...

Maybe i could just have an electric fan sitting behind my radiator that does nothing until i flip a switch inside my car. It seems when i do get into traffic like in cities and that kind of slow paced crap that seems to be where all the heat is built up. Plus i could have a temp. switch in the radiator that will kick it on if it needs cooling quickly.


Hey Droptopcat,
I found this picture of a fan...think this would be better than the one i posted earlier? And i found a fan shroud (NOS) but its 81.00. What did you pay for yours?


-Dave
 

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I was running a 160 in it and like ITOW said its no good , that could be a big solution there, im running a 195 degree thermostat in mine and like i said eariler it never goes past 1/2 way and it has been good ever since w/ the shroud and the new thwermostat.
thanks
pat
 

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Dave
ask around or look on ebay, i bought mine from ebay for 46.00 and it was in good condition. The repops are fiberglass or a hard plastic as to where the originals are not so hard in material. But ask around in here im sure there are some cougar fanatics that may have a 7 blade clutch fan laying around they are willing to sell.I will say its a small insurance cost for a major roleplay in keeping your kitty cool.
thanks
pat

p.s. i had bought a repo and 1 day the fanblade caught it good and busted it down by the bottom inlet of the radiator hose
 

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I like the dual 11" Spal fans. Pulls 2850 cfm and only a couple of amps, typically less than the competition. Fits a 24" radiator perfectly and comes with shrouds. A bit pricy at $300, though. Add another $60 for a temperature sensor kit. Check the radiator's temp with a meat gauge to see if you have a problem before plunking down the money. As others have noted, a bad sensor could be the culprit.
 

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If you still think you need electric fans, I've used several different types. I had a tubbed Ranger with a 302. I didnt have enough room between the radiator and water pump pulley to install a fan so I used the twin fan setup that was factory on alot of late 80's and 90's Cadillac's. I used them as pushers and NEVER had a problem with pverheating. I've also used GM FWD puller type fans that had a shroud built on with good luck.
Like I tried to explain before though. You need to figure out if it is getting hot or not and if it is, why is it. If it ran cool before but wont now you need to figure out whats wrong instead of tryin to cover it up. It may be a simple problem right now that if left go may get very big sooner than later.
 

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go to our links section and all the mustang and cougar dealers carry the shroud for your model car. and before going to much trouble i would just put a higher output water pump if your having trouble. and i should point out that ITOW although making a good point has just done a myth of the week in the water staying in the rad longer. I wont get into the science but temperature is temprature. having a higher thermastat make the engine run hotter that is all. water does not cool better by being left in the radiator longer. think about this if the water is staying in the radiator longer it is also staying in the engine longer! Running hotter with a cooler intake influx will make an engine run better for certain applications but your 160 is more than fine and will keep your engine at you guesed it 160 degrees. although i would recomned the higher 185 degree or more especially living in michigan where hot weather is not as much a concern.Okay now come down to the water pump or the radiator. many go to fans and many other things of legend when basically all they needed is a good rod and core for 50 bucks. make sure your radiator is good. if you havent cored it than start there look at the water. maybe green on top but at the bottom could be brown. add then a recovery tank this will also increase the amount of water and help keep the engine cooler 14.00 most napa stores or you can splurge for the summit one for 17.00. Then go to the pump as last resort and many of the after market pumps perform better than the stock, but ya know what, the stock one is pretty darn good and cheap. now its 50 bucks. all in all this would be around 114.00 compared to the fan and switches and mounting and thremostats. if all this doesnt work than i would go have a good flush to the engine. when that doesnt work than install the fans but think about it these cars didnt run hot from factory right? your problem is 30 years and with most things the time has taken its toll. I dont know how many people I have read on my thunderbird sites who add fans only to find they dont work and they should of done the steps i just told you. now talk about trying to keep something cool... try a classic bird, they are notorius for over heating. Oh also add the shroud it really helps out as well but dont expect miracles if your pushing clean water through mud.
 

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If you want a cheap source of good quality pusher fans - find a Mercedes V8 in the junk yard and pull it's fan. People rubbish pusher fans but that is all Benz have been using for the last 20 years - seems to work for them. They also look horribly like an Spal fan
 

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DK: I have an original fan shroud for 20" radiator. It's 34 years old, but still usable. If you want I can send you pics. You pay the shipping and it's yours.
 

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one more thing.....

Cougarguy almost got it right. He is totally correct about the time the water is in the radiator, but he is a little off about the 160 thermostat. First, the temp rating on a thermostat is only when it opens. If your engine naturally runs at 200 degrees while driving 60 mph, and you have a 160 degree thermostat, then you will still run at 200, you will only be keeping the water in the block intill 160. It is more a relationship between the engine, thermostat, and the radiator. The only time your engine is going to run at the temp rating of the themostat is when your radiator has more cooling capacity than your engine has heating capacity. Example: You have a big block radiator in a 67 cougar. Your engine is a 200 cubic inch straight six. You have a 185 degree thermostat. The water will stay in the block intill it is 185 degrees and the thermostat opens. Then the radiator will make sure it will stay at 185. If the thermostat got stuck open then the radiator could cool it even more. Get it? One more for ya: You have a straight six radiator in a 64 mustang that you have swaped in a 460. (i know it won't fit). You have a 160 degree thermostat. You take off and the water in the engine gets up to 160 and then the thermostat opens up. Who knows what temp you are going to level off at, if you do. That thing might run at 250! The engine produces more heat than the radiator can get rid of.

Now, when i first got my cougar, the guy before me had swaped in a 84 302 from a mustang, and put in aftermarket electric gauges. I was always running hot. I would take off and the gauge would get up to 205 before finially the thermostat would open and the temp would drop to 195 and stay there. I wanted to put in a 185 degree thermostat to see if it would help. When I went to swap it in I found that the old one had been installed backwards. It was trying to open against the flow of water. With the new 185 thermorstat ( put in the correct way), the engine would get to 185, (thermostat opens) and stay there intill, I got on the highway. At that point the temp would slowly climb to 195. The engine was producing more heat than the radiator could get rid of. Then I got a four core radiator, and now the thermostat opens at 185 and the temp stays there.

Find out why your car is doing what it is doing before you start throwing parts at it.

Now, as far as thermostats go, YOU SHOULD NOT need to go lower than 180! Anything below that temp, and the engine wear goes up ALOT! Fix your problem and put in a 180 or 185 thermostat.

Sorry for the book,
Austin
 
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