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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:uhoh: Do I need to change out the steel brake lines that were for the 4 wheel manual drum brakes when I change over to 4 wheel power disc brakes?
 

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I changed the lines from the distribution block out to where the flex hoses connect in the front fender wells. Otherwise no changes necessary unless the steel lines are rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lines are in good shape just wondering if right size. I guess once the fluid is at the cylinders volume of flow is not an issue.
 

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i think it's 3/16 lines at the way through - but typically the lines rust inside-out becaus DOT3 will absorb moisture, so look at the fluid coming out to determine if that's the case. I'd consider going to DOT5 at this point too.....
 

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I've done this conversion to my 68 XR-7 and offer these comments. Yes you need to change the brakelines from the proportioning valve (which also has to be changed out) to the anchor in the front wheel wells; this is necessary because the flexhose to the new disc brakes is different in both mounting point and design than the non-power hose. Also, because you need a different proportioning valve and have added a power booster the lines between the proportioning valve and the master cylinder must also be changed out. Very much worth the effort, good luck.
 

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It is easiest to just buy new lines for this conversion, but I reflared the front lines at the frame where the hoses attach to fit the new location and hoses. At the distribution block I reflared as well in order to change the flare nuts to the correct size for the disc/drum block. The lines to the master will need to be changed because of the new length required as PBO indicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was planning on using the Drum/Drum distribution block because i was told the proportioning was in the master cylinder. I have purchaced a power master cylinder for 05 6cyl mustang. I have a proportioning valve for the rear disc. My main concern was the lines to the wheel wells. Sounds like I need to order a brake line kit and maybe master cylinder lines.
 

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I just finished converting from power drum/drum to power disc/drum on my X-code 68. I had an extra pre-bent line kit for my 70 Mach 1 and was able to use most of that. The line to the rear axle was rusted out so I also used the Mustang line to the rear. I did have to buy the rear flex hose for a Mustang though since the new lines for the rear axle were made for a 70 and the original splitter block at the axle for the 68 Cougar was different. The one major change from factory parts was that I used a SSBC distribution block which has an adjustment knob for the rear brake bias. I also plan to eventually swap the rear drums for discs and the adjustable distribution block will already be in place.
On a side note I also went to a 1" front sway bar and added a 5/8" rear bar as well as a strut tower brace. Total transformation from a sloppy steering and stopping boat to a sharp handling and stopping street machine. I am still waiting on the export brace that has been on back order forever. Another future upgrade will be to replace the leaky and numb feeling factory power steering with a power rack & pinion setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
We have been discussing the lines, but I need to make sure my assumption about the distribution block is correct. In a Drum/Drum set up the distribution bock does not meter the fluid.

I belive it acts as a distribution junction. That said would I need many type of pressure metering for the front disc? On the rear disc I will have a proportioning valve to set the bias.

Thanks for all the help, this is a good place.
 

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We have been discussing the lines, but I need to make sure my assumption about the distribution block is correct. In a Drum/Drum set up the distribution bock does not meter the fluid.

I belive it acts as a distribution junction. That said would I need many type of pressure metering for the front disc? On the rear disc I will have a proportioning valve to set the bias.

Thanks for all the help, this is a good place.
Correct, drum/drum has no proportioning valve. Disc/disc, you need (usually an adjustable) rear proportioning valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, sounds like I am headed in the right direction. Just need to figure out how to connect 2004 master cylinder to 1969 distribution block. Should not be to difficult.
I really appreciate the posters here. I am going to have 69 drum brakes parts for someone that needs them.
 

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The front brakes do most of the stopping. The reason you need to regulate the pressure to the rear brakes in most setups is that if you allowed the same amount of pressure to both ends the rear brakes would lock up first since the weight of the car shifts forward during hard braking. Since you are obviously not worried about keeping the car all original adding an adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes makes good sense as it will allow you to fine tune the brake bias.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks. I am going th restomod route. I love the classic lines, but not somuch the classic ride. Hopefully when finished I will have the best of both worlds. Disc brakes are the best upgrade I can think of. Felt interesting the first time stopping with manual Drum/drum setup. Even my first car had front power disc and it was a 72.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Went to fit the power booster tonight, none of the holes line up. shouldn't at least 2 line up? bought the power booster for 69 cougar from guy on this forum. Should I start new thread?
 

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Did you carve out the hole in the center? The firewall has an outline where you need to cut out. Once you've done that, all the holes will line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Found a good article on line that shows the complete process. I have a lot of work to do. Have to drill an additional bottom hole and ream out the center. Also mods to the carrier under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well the brake line discussion was solved by my car. Front brake lines look good. Took rearend out today and wen I went to loosen the brake line from front of car to rear, it snapped. It was rusted. So i should replace all after finding that. Easier than trying to figure out what is good and what needs replacing.
 
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