Yep, the page you reference shows only D0 CJ and SCJ heads as having screw in studs/guideplates.
Now, assuming you do have screw in studs/guideplates and hydraulic lifters (BTW, are the lifters new or used? Clean or goopy?), here is how you adjust them. First make sure they are properly pumped up, turn the dist. oil pump drive until oil is coming out of the pushrods/lifters. Then, take your firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 and stack the first four on top of the second four. Then make cylinder 6 rockers rock, that is one is opening, the other closing, make them even. This should be close to TDC for cylinder 1 (you can check this one on the balancer). Then (on cylinder 1) carefully tighten down the nut while turning the pushrod, take up close to all slack and then turn. Feel for the very beginning of drag as the last of the slack is taken out, this is zero lash. Then, turn the nut 3/4 turn more, that's it. Repeat for the other valve of cylinder 1. Move on to cylinder 5, make cylinder 3 rock and so on.
The rockers may be a little loose (but not a lot after) you are done, this is a function if lifter bleed (thus my question about new or used lifters). If they are real loose, your lifters are bleeding down too much and you need new lifters (and possibly cam, check lifter cupping when you take them out, more than just a tad of cupping and you need new lifters AND cam).
Hope this helps.
Bob