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Discussion Starter #1
The guy painting my car is telling me no, but I am curious what you guys think. He plans on using a black primer on most of the car, then a white sealer before spraying with Fawn? We did end up getting the DP40LF red oxide primer for the underside. He already has black primer, Should I tell him no that I want him to use all red oxide?
 

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Yes-ish. Primer color matters when the topcoat is going to be directly applied over it. Ideally, you want the primer color to 'match' the top coat. For instance, you would not want to go with black primer if you're going to paint the car white - it would require more white paint to cover the primer and prevent bleed through. Having said that, you could use the black primer with white paint as long as you understood that you should really spray more white paint to cover the car. Since primer is cheaper than paint, the most effective solution would be to match primer & paint colors.

It sounds like he is going to spray a white sealer over the car before it's painted, that will help greatly. You should be fine.
 

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K, I hate to second guess this guy as his work looks very good and does some very high priced cars, just didn't think dark primer and light colored paint mixed. I also want to make sure that the final color is correct, Thought maybe with a darker primer it would show darker or a lighter primer it would show lighter? Can't believe how much paint and primer cost!!!!
 

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K, I hate to second guess this guy as his work looks very good and does some very high priced cars, just didn't think dark primer and light colored paint mixed. I also want to make sure that the final color is correct, Thought maybe with a darker primer it would show darker or a lighter primer it would show lighter? Can't believe how much paint and primer cost!!!!
no they dont, if you have a heavy solid color like a black white , or such color doesnt matter, however if the paint is translucent at all , you will need to be one uniform color . and almost need a basecoat color under the final color
 

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Considering that besides red oxide (74) in the DPLF line there is also, gray-green (40), gray (50), blue (60), white (48) and black (90). I tend to use mainly the DPLF 40 and sometimes the 48.
 

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One other thing to consider (and my body man was not concerned although I think it was/is a well founded thought) is that when you get a chip in the paint, it shows a lot more if what's underneath varies greatly in color from what's on top.

For my burgundy paint, I would have liked to have seen a dark grey primer used, but lighter grey was used instead.
 

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I am not an expert in paint or body work in even the slightest way. This is just for information. While sanding my car, I found two different colors of primer under the original burgundy paint: light gray on top of the metal and red oxide over the gray and under the burgundy paint (and nothing under the vinyl top). When I got the car, it had lots of chips along the door. Most of the chips exposed the light gray primer.
 

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Big buck paint jobs quite often use tinted(colored) primer. Adds to the depth of the color.
 

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A rock chip in a light color with black primer would show big time
 

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I did a paint job once using a patchwork of gray and brown primer. Didn't figure it would matter because it was being covered with a solid red centari paint. It did matter. The red was lighter on the gray and darker on the brown, especially in the sun. A sealer coat first would have taken care of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This guy is talking a sealer coat? Not even sure what that is. The black primer he has was much cheaper in cost than that red oxide. Different brand I think. He said he was going to use a white sealer over the black primer? I am sure he knows what he is doing just seams strange to use a dark color primer. I rekon as long as the entire car and all parts are primed and sealed the same the final color will be consistent throughout the car. Next Monday I should have something to take pictures of. The super bird he has is just about done, all painted just waiting to be wheeled out.
 

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Cheaper, huh? Let's see. A gallon of DPLF is around $180. You have the red oxide in either a gallon or a quart at around $46. You know that these are 2K epoxy primers which are great at sealing the metal against moisture. So how cheap is this black primer? Then there is the cost of a white sealer to go over it. I don't know about you but I would be using either the light gray or white DPLF under your Fawn color. I can say that with experience since I painted my Mustang in 1990 Pebble Beige over PPG white epoxy primer. Of course I also had PPG's K38 surfacer over the white in order to level the body work. K38 is a light beige.
 

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You ask what sealer is.. well, it's a coating used to cover up any small color differences, if there are any, left after the primer was put on. Like if you went back and touched up an imperfection in the body work and now you don't have a uniform primer color all over the car. Also, it 'seals' the materials used before it (etching primer/bondo/2k primer, etc) from the continual evaporation of solvents thereby possibly causing wrinkling and solvent pop through the base and clear coats. Hope that makes sense. Not sure why he's using black primer and white sealer howver. If fawn is your base coat then ya, go with a light gray or white sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks all. I wish I had more control over this stage of the game. Next time I think I would like to try the priming and painting myself. I think it would be much more satisfying and the slower pace would be easier to handle.
 
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