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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I know this isn't my Cat, but I'm having trouble, and even the Olds forum I belong to hasn't responded back to a thread.

On my '87 Cutlass, I have to change my rear wheel cylinders. I have the line off, and all the springs in front, but couldn't find any bolts whatsoever. Since it's been 25 years since I've replaced one, and I've NEVER replaced one on a G-body, I'm kind of stumped.

On O'Reilly's website, it shows a picture of the wheel cylinder (only $8.00!), with some clip on the bottom of the pic. I don't know if the picture is accurate, as they sometimes put a picture of something else in there, but if that's the case, then where does this clip go, and/or how do I take it off? I went as far as trying to get the big nut on top of the backing plate off, and even with my impact, I couldn't do it! I always remembered wheel cylinders as having a couple of small bolts on the backing plate, holding it on. I can't see any bolts on this!

I was able to change the brake fluid on my Cat, and the bleeders loosened right up! (not bad for 43 years old!) I was trying to do the same to my '87, and the one bleeder that DIDN'T have the rubber boot on, came loose, but the other one, that did have the boot, broke! Both of the wheel cylinders are greasy/wet, so I need to change them anyway, and I'm also cutting the front rotors, due to warpage (the idiotic previous owner must have 'locked them up', and warped the rotors), every time I hit the brakes, the pedal, and car shake. And, depending on where they are at, if there both 'in sync', then it's really bad trying to stop!

I'm hoping some of you 'super mechanics' can help me out here! I can't believe no one from the olds forum has responded (well, you guys are nicer, anyway!).

Thanks,
John
 

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Hey John,
That clip holds the W/C in place. It's got two teeth, top and bottom, I think. just get a small screwdriver or an awl and pry it out. The new one just pushes on. I never saw a special tool for doing this job......maybe someone else will chime in and correct me.
It's like spring metal, I guess GM saved $.25 per car by doing it this way. Stupid design, IMO, but not very difficult once you realize how it works. Oh yea, it pries out from the back (where the bolts SHOULD be)

Good luck,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, someone from the Olds forum finally responded, with the same thing. Actually, I said the exact same thing on there! Why would they do that, when like forever, there has always been 2 bolts holding that on? It's totally amazing that they would screw that up, on a $8.00 w/c?!?!?

And to think, when I was 20, I wanted to be a mechanic! Instead, I decided to drive truck. Don't know which is worse, really!

Thanks,
John
 

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Thanks, someone from the Olds forum finally responded, with the same thing. Actually, I said the exact same thing on there! Why would they do that, when like forever, there has always been 2 bolts holding that on? It's totally amazing that they would screw that up, on a $8.00 w/c?!?!?

And to think, when I was 20, I wanted to be a mechanic! Instead, I decided to drive truck. Don't know which is worse, really!

Thanks,
John
The auto Makers do that so you will take it to THEM for service! That being said, I've always used a Screw-Driver to pry the clip off, and use a socket that fits over the shoulder of the W/C, and a pair of large Channel Lok Pliers to seat the Clip when installing it. Kent-Moore made the proper tool for the job, but never released the Patent.

BTW, Do Not Reuse The Clip! They Usually break on Re-Installation.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for all the advice, I'll try that tomorrow. I just had to take a video of the 'custom' exhaust work that was done to the car. I knew about the great "Y" pipe "T", but just noticed the custom bend by the trans cross member. Wait until you see this!

The sad thing is, the older Cougar has NO leaks (that's actually a GOOD thing!), where you will see this car is seeping quite a bit! Looks like I'll be taking yet another motor/trans out soon!

Thanks,
John


 

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I had an 80 Malibu with the same stupid setup. Also, when these cars were new, the backing plates needed to be changed because they were so thin, they rotted out quickly causing the w/c to twist. I ended up buying a special tool to remove the clip. If you get stuck, let me know. I think I still have it somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
YEA! I finally got the old wheel cylinders off today! A couple of screwdrivers, and some patience, and they're finally off! I just have to get the new one's, and put them back on, but now that I know how that clip goes, it won't be so bad! I also have to get new front rotors, as the current ones are too thin, almost down to minimums. Can't turn those to get the warpage out!

Thanks for the advice.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had an 80 Malibu with the same stupid setup. Also, when these cars were new, the backing plates needed to be changed because they were so thin, they rotted out quickly causing the w/c to twist. I ended up buying a special tool to remove the clip. If you get stuck, let me know. I think I still have it somewhere.


Sorry, but I've been busy here lately, and didn't have time to respond. I FINALLY got the new w/c's on, with a couple of small pry bars, and some screwdrivers (and LOTS of patience!). Got my front brakes done also, with new rotors, and ceramic pads. Also changed the brake fluid, as the old stuff was REALLY nasty! Now, the car stops so smooooth! I can't believe it, it's almost like a new car! I've had to deal with those warped rotors for almost a year now, I didn't even know what that car felt like with 'decent' brakes!

Thanks for the offer, but I only have my '84 H/O left to do (with the f**ked up rear w/c's), and I should be able to get those off too. I'm hoping the bleeders will come loose, so I won't have to replace them at all! That would be nice! I know, I'm probably dreaming! After that car, I'm not planning on EVER changing those types of w/c's AGAIN!

John
 
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