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Discussion Starter #1
This is to go along with my other 'NOT HAPPY' thread, without hi-jacking myself.
I recently installed a set of "performance" aftermarket springs, in a Ford Duraspark distributor. Since then, the car does not want to idle consistently, or accelerate cleanly, while under a load. Is it possible to have too light of a set of springs? What about a stock heavy and a light spring? I wouldn't mind a MSD distributor, but I don't really think it is necessary.
What is your experience with aftermarket springs and "un-curved" stock Ford distributors?
 

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My experience is that it's a craps shoot.
When you start curving the distributor with preset spring weights, you run the risk of it being a little wrong, a lot wrong, or right.

I'd put the springs back and start from there with using one stock/one light.

I like Leon's methodology too. Get everything back like it was, all the kids back in the pool, and then examine the secondaries and primary tip-in, etc. on the carbs. You didn't just change the springs, you changed the linkage too. Now that the carbs are actually opening properly (we assume), you could have a range of new tuning challenges. Twin 4's can be challenging.

One variable at a time: Get it back like it was and see what happens.
 

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+1 to Andy - easier to start from a known config. Even if you bought an MSD you would have to play with the spring rates and play with the timing at each change to find the sweet combo...
 

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bit off the topic question but regarding distribitors...
just installed my new one ( electronic ignition )

Dont know if it was the fault off the distributor or from the person who helped me but when i was driving home today (just after the new setup)
a big bang occured,scared the **** out off me,engine turned down and i was like shiiiiiit !!!

Now the distributor cap 'fell - flew' off....

Minor damage to the cap though but still....
hope it is not a factory issue .....

(tommorow when i drive to work i will soon find out if it was or not...)
 

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Holy crap Chuck! Sounds like the dizzy (or the shaft) popped up? Are you saying it's drivable still>? Maybe you ddin't get the cap on right somehow?
 

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just got back from work +- 40 miles
looks like nothing happened cause the engine is running sweeeeet !!!

I guess the guy who installed the distributor did not put the cap right on....
Strange enough the cap flew off after i was driving for 10 minutes yesterday....

I cant imagine the cap flying off the distributor neither can i imagine to put the cap on wrong....
So this was my biggest concern,factory issue or mistake by people?

The points in the cap were damaged,(the rotation part must have hit the contacts while it flew off )
I straighted them out and so far ,so good

but i check on regular base to see that the distributor is still in perfect position.....

Greets
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In my case, I swapped in another duraspark distributor that I had, and there was no change in performance. Rotating the distributor to change initial timing did have an affect on engine noise, but could not find a sweet spot where the engine would take any more fuel than at an idle.
 

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Well, it was worth a shot. Guess that brings us back to the valvetrain......
 

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I followed these instructions when I recurved the Duraspark II in my '85 Mustang GT. I had my wife increase the RPM's in 500 RPM increments while I measured the timing advance with a dial back timing light and jotted it down on graph paper.

http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php?t=5543




Quote from the above link:

"You should use timing light at this point to confirm that the initial timing is where you set it, and steady, and then check the timing from idle to 3500 in 500rpm increments. The curve should increase a few degrees at every checkpoint until 2500-3000rpm, where it hits the maximum. After 3000 it should not go beyond the total advance."
 

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I have used Mr. Gasket #925D springs in several of my cars with no problem. However, I only use one from the two provided. I remove the heavy spring and only replace that one. My goal is to get all the advance in sooner than stock. At least by 3000 rpm. When this was done on my so called "dog 360" F100 the effect was dramatic in the pickup and go of that engine. None of my cars have Duraspark though.
 

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If you need more tension in the springs you can bend the tangs that hold the springs.
If the engine won't idle down it's possible the mech. advance is "tipping in" at idle or just off idle.
 
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