[1973Cougar]

Battery is fully charged. New starter was installed this weekend. Alternator is good. I havent replaced the battery cables or ground wire yet. I have to order them. The car still has a dead spot when starting. I started the car and it was cold and it started rigjt up. I then drove it for 30 minutes, shut it off for 5 minutes and when i went to crank it there was nothing. It was like the car had a dead battery for a few seconds and then it slowly cranked over. What do u think is causing this? Thanx

 

[Bad69cat]

check all your connectioons - especially the ground and block to frame body. Check that the starter connection is clean/snug. Give the starter a few love taps with a rubber mallot to be sure the brusahes are seated good. If all that fails then you are looking at a bad starter most likely. Pull it and have the nearest parts store test it for you. It's usually free....

 

[1973Cougar]

I thank you for your advice. I popped the hood this morning and saw that the end of one of the battery cables was a little frayed so I am thinking that this may be causing the problem. I will have to order the cables and then see if that is what is causing this. The starter was installed by a local shop - so they can test it. Im bringing the car there on saturday.
Thanks

 

[390XR7]

What about your timing?too far advanced will cause the same problem

 

[1973Cougar]

really? Would that just suddenly start to happen?

 

[390XR7]

not suddenly but could be a contributing factor,have you checked your timing?

 

[1973Cougar]

nope nut ill have the shop do it - im not mechanically inclined

 

[Bad69cat]

yeah, timing is a good thought too. A frayed cable won't hurt it to much - but a dirty connection would. I'm sure the shop will check it out for you, but it doesn't hurt to check the obvious first.

 

[Cedar Rapids Ia]

Starter brushes dragging is my bet...

 

[1973Cougar]

brand new starter put in last weekend

 

[doctordesoto]

ask the auto parts store to order you 6 volt cables @ the same length you have---6 volt wire is bigger than 12 volt
doctordesoto

 

[lewpoberezny]

If you hear absolutely nothing you may not be energizing the solenoid. Usually you will hear the solenoid click if the ignition switch and neutral safety are good. While you have the no crank situation take a test light to the small terminal on the solenoid that the red wire with a blue tracer is attached to. you should have 12 volts there with the key in the crank position. If you have the 12 volt signal you can rule out the ignition switch and neutral safety, if it is an automatic. If you have the 12 volt signal check for 12 volts at the heavy wire from the solenoid to the starter. If you have 12 volts there it should be the starter. New last week does not mean it is good today. I have taken plenty out of box and had them be defective from the start.

 

[1973Cougar]

...This is what the car was doing before the new starter was put in - so that is why I am thinking it has to be something else. I am writing down all your suggestions and I will tell the shop on Saturday

 

[lewpoberezny]

I reread your original post and now understand why timing was mentioned. My suggestion is to get the car warm and then when your symptom occurs. remove the coil wire and try to re crank. if it spins normal with coil connected timing advanced to far may be the cause. Is this a stock engine or has the compression been raised? If it not stock, has high compression pistons and timing is correct you may opt to replace the starter with a gear reduction starter. That is what I used on my big block 482 Cobra.

...This is what the car was doing before the new starter was put in - so that is why I am thinking it has to be something else. I am writing down all your suggestions and I will tell the shop on Saturday

 

[1973Cougar]

It was rebuilt by PO and has a mild cam.

 

[1973Cougar]

I brought it to the shop today - they will be checking everything that you mentioned -