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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help cipherin' some casting numbers on a set of heads I've located at a junkyard. I looked at FORDMUSCLE to see if they had an online casting numbers reference, but I couldn't find it if they did.

On the top of the head between the rockers ther'es a "302", which is obviously a 302 head.

Underneath, there's a 69 and a D0OE cast into the outside of the intake runners.

Are these the D0OE castings that are supposedly the better flowing factory units??

Thanks for any help anyone has, even if it's just pointing me where to look.
 

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Ron I was always told the 68's were the best. As they were the only early 4v heads. But I'm sure the 70 heads are better than say 79-80. Sorry but I never really messed with the 302's that much. mm
 

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Like MM said, they are better then the late 70's castings. Still, the best original iron heads you can get are the early 351W castings. They have larger valves and significantly better ports. With a little clean up they flow realy good on a street car. Of course they will never be better then any of the new aluminum heads, but they are much better then the 302's.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help Mark and Hal.

It's kind of one of those incremental deals, the faster you want to go, the more $$$ you have to spend!!

I'll probably port my heads first and see where that puts me, probably 70-80% of the flow #'s of the windsor SR I'd guess.

I've got the 65/66 289 heads (small chamber, 54cc) Chevy 2.02/1.60 valves, 1.550" Comp Springs, 3/8 threaded studs, full roller rockers. Ports and bowls are untouched, and I suspect theres some hooding going on with those big valves and small chambers. I'm thinking I'll do the port work and unhood the valves, measure the chamber volumes for consistency, and then go from there. FORDMUSCLE has a good reference section for porting small block heads, and the way I see it I've got nothing to lose since the next step is a new set of aftermarket rigs anyway! Plus I'm just dumb enough to tackle such a job!!

Theres' guys around that will do it for $200-$350, but how far do they go?? Anyone can do some simple gasket matching, it's the bowl work that takes the skill, and I just don't see someone spending the right amount of time for that kind of dough. And to spend the right amount of dough for a pro port job, the Rousch 200's in Iron would be the way to go.

I'll probably learn a lot, but I'll probably wish that I just got some aftermarket heads in the long run without all of the pain and suffering.

Ron.
 

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Ron, 200-350 is chump change when porting is done. I expect for that much money thats just the type of job you will get.

I had my windsor sr's professionally done and flow benched for I want to say $1000. And that was back in 90. You can probably do as well as the guy thats doing it for the $300. Just take your time and measure, measure and measure some more. You want them all the same and short of a flow bench thats the best you can do.

The way my motor run I never regretted spending the money on the head work. That little 377 would flat put it on a 406 chevy any night. Just remember that was before all the aftermarket ford heads they have today. They got em now all you have to do is take them out of the box and bolt them on.

I did several sets of early windsors before with good results. At least I thought they were untill Dart came out with the Windsors.

Be carefull though at the short turn at the bottom of the exhaust port. I ground though one. You know it was the last port to be done on the set of heads too. I then took the junk head and cut it in two so then I knew how much meat was where. The exhaust is where the real work needs to be done and most of it is in the roof of the port.

If you have never done one let me make a suggestion, if you dont have one buy a electric die grinder. Makita makes a dandy. They dont get hot and suck up huge amounts of air to keep the compressor from going nuts on you. Also invest in some good carbide burrs and make sure a couple are the long shaft type.

For sure the intake valves are shrouded and need some work there. The downside is you do open the chambers and loose some compression but that might be a good thing. Make sure the heads are cc'd when done to make sure all chambers are the same size. Take your time and have fun, just dont expect miracles out of them. You only have so much to work with with those heads. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again Mark for your wisdom in this area, you have covered all of this territory before, obviously.

What is your opinion of the Ford Motorsports GT40-P Heads?? They're a little cheaper but might be in the right flow range for me right out of the box.
 

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Ron, your on your own bout the gt40p's. Dont know much about them, except that there suppose to be pretty good if worked on some. There again there designed for the 302 so they should work better. The only thing is there probably going to be hard to get a bigger than 1.94 intake in them.

Still from what I understand there not all that much cheaper than a set of windsor JR's and myself I would choose the latter.

Also I'm not sure but some of the gt40's (not sure which)have to use the late model valve train with them and if thats the case the cost just got higher than the Darts. mm
 

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you might want to check out some heads from a newer explorer with the 351 i have heard that they flow quite well with very little work but as to the particulars i am not privy. maybe someone has also heard of this mod.
 
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