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Speed costs money, have fast do you want to go? Do you have an engine hoist, a good torque wrench, and a decent set of hand tools? Clean area to work with, when you put the engine back together? Are you just looking for a cruiser? Maybe it's time to buy a low mileage 302/351W sedan, with an over drive transmission, and swap that out? Lots of things to decide before ou pull the motor...
 

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A local speed shop near me want to build me a 347 motor starting price at $3200.00 for long block
I'm sure they'd like to build one for everybody at that price. But I doubt they get many takers.
 

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Best bang for your dollar is almost always gonna be a crate - unless you have a machine shop who works cheap (UNLIKELY) - you can't build the same motor they mass produce at the same price - scales of economics I guess. Plus you get warranty and piece of mind from reputable shops IMO
 

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I say do it yourself. IMO, the satisfaction of having done it yourself is worth a lot. Even if you buy all the components and assemble it yourself. That's what it is all about.

Without making this a long reply, I went to a car show near my home and saw a '68. When I talked to the owner I got the feeling that our conversation was making him uncomfortable. Turns out, he paid a shop to build it. I walked away a sad man. It was pretty but in my mind it lost a lot of its luster after that.

To each his own but I say if you got the skills, why not do it yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, I decided to rebuild myself. Can you get 330 hp out of 289?
I'm Open for some suggestions on what cam, intake ETC.
 

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See, now is the fun part! Is it supposed to be a street car, or a track car? My 68 came with a 289. I bought the "kit" from summit, hyper pistons, .030 over, and .010 over and under on the rods and mains. I have ended up with the complete Edelbrock top end package, that is supposed to produce 400 hp. Performer RPM heads, dual quad intake, and cam. Other than the learning curve on pudhrod geometry, I am pretty happy with the performance.
The machine shop is a huge part of the equation....Get solid quotes on prices for labor and work before you take anything in. It seems now matter how clear you try to be, they ALWAYS try and get extra money out of you, even after you gave them explicit instructions. Like "call me, if this gets near 'X' dollars"
In the greater Boise area, I can get a bottom end done for around 400 dollars...
 

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Make sure you mark everything! Back in the '80's I rebuild a '68 350 4 bolt main. I am convinced that not only did they swap out my forged crank for a regular one but the also mixed up my connecting rod caps (they pressed on my 10.0:1 trw forged pistons). I put it together and after I torqued the conn rod bolts, I couldn't spin it. Talk about perplexing. Mark the rods and caps to make sure that doesn't happen to you. Also mark the block and crank.

I'm excited for you!
 

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1967 Cougar 289. Rebuild the 289 or get a Crate engine.
If this is your first build, and you don't plan on building many more, I would just buy the crate engine. There are so many things that you will probably miss that will cause you greif later on, I know building your own would give you a feeling of accomplishment, but, lots of things you should know before you build your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I rebuuilt my first cougar (68 XR-7) about 35 years ago. But it was just a basic rebuild, rings, bearings, new mild cam, lifters, intake and carb. valves job. The engines got to come out anyway. I don't have much space to store it if I did do a crate motor. I know a couple "gear heads" if I have trouble with something. Like coming here! A lot of information! Thanks!
 

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I'm not against a DIY - just know that you will need a whole gammit of tools for going the mod route and really study the proceess and art of it to understand whats needing checked. You will learn much but spend more on this one....the next ones will be cheaper and you will have some tools and experience to use! Lots of info and good books to use....be sure to pick up one up. Make friends with your local machine shop!! (6 packs on a friday may help! LOL) ;>) Keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm not against a DIY - just know that you will need a whole gammit of tools for going the mod route and really study the proceess and art of it to understand whats needing checked. You will learn much but spend more on this one....the next ones will be cheaper and you will have some tools and experience to use! Lots of info and good books to use....be sure to pick up one up. Make friends with your local machine shop!! (6 packs on a friday may help! LOL) ;>) Keep us posted

Thanks you for your help and support! I will be pulling the motor and tans. next week and I'm having the trans.rebuilt.(first things first) (c4) What is a good shift kit? B&W? I have a new "2000stall" converter that came with the cougar when I bought her. Keep in mind that I decided to go with mild performance.
Thank you all!! And for the Six packs,,,, I don't do the six packs!!! How about a 30 pack? LOL
 

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OHHH YEAH - KC has some master brewers there!! Boulevard has some spectacular ones....oh, were talking cars though!

DON'T hodge-podge! Be very selective in what you want and how to get there. 2 critical things need to drive your build or you will be very disappointed in performance. Match the cam to the ratio. That means you need to know what your drive train as whole, will be. Sounds simple - but it's not cut and dry! You can put a monster motor in front of an under-performing trans and rear gear and get waxed by granny going to get her nails done done at Walmart on her moped!! Since you want "mild" you need to just keep it simple. Mild needs to be defined according to what you have and what you need......try looking at kits that have the whole shebang including a defined stall/rear end recommendation
 

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Not bad - but I dont see exact cam specs../ print this off take it to your hometown machine shop and say I want this built. Now you have a local contact and I bet they can do it for less with your core!! CHA-ching! :>) Now you got roo to "improve" it....but give it/us a sanity check before you pull the trigger.
 

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IDK about the Blue Monkey crate engine. I mean, it isn't a bad price, but it isn't a killer deal either. "NEW!" exhaust seats, springs, valve guides, pistons and rings..
A summit rebuild kit gets you almost all that:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-MHP172-300/

A complete cam kit gets you the top end,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K31-218-2/

All you are missing is some machine work on the heads and block to make it all fit. PLus your new ignition system to go with what ever intake and carb you ahve in mind.
For the above, I would with a 600 holley, and a torker intake, if you can find one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-T...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

So I guess, if you add in the value of your time, and lack of space, the crate motor isn't a bad deal. I have the tools to do the assembly myself, other than a ring compressor, and I will be geting one of those here pretty soon...
 

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I just did a rebuild with just about the same parts. Cost $2000 to do and i didn't get harden seats and an intake with the deal. Some of those places scare me on how well they are built.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is the Comp Cam that is in the BlueMonkey Crate engine.

<TABLE class=overvw><TBODY><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Brand</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>COMP Cams</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Manufacturer's Part Number</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>31-238-3</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Part Type</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>Camshafts</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Product Line</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Summit Racing Part Number</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>CCA-31-238-3</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>UPC</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>036584030904</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels></TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data> </TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Cam Style</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>Hydraulic flat tappet</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Basic Operating RPM Range</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>1,300-5,600</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>218</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>224</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>218 int./224 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Intake Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>262</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Exhaust Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>270</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>262 int./270 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.493 in.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.500 in.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.493 int./0.500 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Lobe Separation (degrees)</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>110</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Computer-Controlled Compatible</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>No</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Grind Number</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>FS XE262H-10</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Valve Springs Required</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>Yes</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Quantity</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>Sold individually.</TD></TR><TR class=spacer><TD colSpan=3> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy camshafts are built to take advantage of the latest cam technology, to provide maximum performance. Whether your use is off-roading, towing, or street performance, there is an Xtreme Energy cam available for you. By using an aggressive lobe profile, these cams provide better throttle response and more top-end horsepower than equivalent cams from other manufacturers, while delivering increased engine vacuum.
 
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