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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i've replaced the relay (beside the battery), voltage regulator, alternator, starter is less than 6 months old


when i try to crank it, it doesn't stop when i turn the key back to off position, i have to either pull the battery terminal, or cuff the carb if it starts.

today, i went to plug the terminals up to check it out in daylight, and it started trying to start without the key in the ignition

i disconnected the terminals again, tapped the relay, then put the terminals back on and it didn't try to start on its own this time, until i turned the key, and it wouldn't stop again.

so i tried disconnecting the "I" terminal while it was on its cranking rampage, and it still continued to crank, i did the same thing with the "S" terminal, and got the same outcome


the relay is brand new, but the wiring is old. my question is, could this be due to old wiring, or is it the relay (considering it still tried to crank after "I" and "S" terminals had been individually removed)? i'd hate to have to replace all the wiring if it's just the relay, because i know that once i replace the wires and try to start it up, there will be another problem to solve.


also, the ignition switch still feels fine, same ammount of slack and hesitation as always when trying to turn it (plus it's less than a year old itself)
 

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You will receive some really valid answers from the more knowledgable than I but they will wonder what year of car you have, Good luck.
 

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You can try a spacer between the starter and houseing. Sounds like your problem is the Bendix hanging. Also, make sure you have not over tightened the studs on the relay. You can get the spacers at your parts store, they come two in the package, one for a two bolt starter and one for a three bolt starter. It's cheap and easy to try to resolve the problem. The fact that they are readily available tells ya how common this problem is I think.
 

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The only way that starter is going to crank is if the cable supplying 12v from the relay is hot, you pulled the S terminal and still cranking tells me the relay is in fact hanging up.
 

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The only way that starter is going to crank is if the cable supplying 12v from the relay is hot, you pulled the S terminal and still cranking tells me the relay is in fact hanging up.
I agree with you 100%
 

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Since you said you still have points its not the Pertronix loop problem. Have you removed both I and S while its running on? Whacked the relay while its running on?
Before starting remove the S and I wire, then jump a wire to the S from the battery and starter should go. Remove jumper wire and starter should stop. If it doesn't then its a bad relay, probably a weak return spring inside.
 

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Another brand new bad relay! Swap it out and your problem will go away. Spacers on starter would be if it was hanging up and not disengaging after engine started. or was grinding. Even then with the right starter if it was hanging up I would replace the bendix not shim starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another brand new bad relay! Swap it out and your problem will go away. Spacers on starter would be if it was hanging up and not disengaging after engine started. or was grinding. Even then with the right starter if it was hanging up I would replace the bendix not shim starter.

the starter still engages while the motor is cranked
 

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Replace the relay, that is your problem.
Do you still have the old one? if so put it on and give it a go. when you reconnected the cables and it started to turn over right away, did you hear the starter engage the bendix, or did it just start turning over without any engagement or disengagement? I personally think it's the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the starter is still engaging even after the car has been cranked, creating motor lagg and grinding from the bendix
 

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That is classic symptom of the starter needing to be spaced back a bit.... Just for giggles use a few washers and see if it works.
If so get yourself a spacer....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That is classic symptom of the starter needing to be spaced back a bit.... Just for giggles use a few washers and see if it works.
If so get yourself a spacer....

well, i bought a new solenoid today, put it on, had the wife turn the key for a second then let it back, everything was okay, had her do it again, it was still ok, the third time, it stayed engaged till i tapped the solenoid. then i tried twice more, and everything was okay again and the car cranked up fine


if this were the starter needing to be spaced, it wouldn't have stopped when i tapped the solenoid right?

please don't tell me this is another defective solenoid?

is there something that could cause the solenoid to recieve too much power causing it to weld shut sometimes? i am clueless at this point
 

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Sometimes they just stick, very seldom though, but if you can tap the solenoid and it quits cranking, it's the solenoid! I had my 86 Mustang stick one time and it's not done it again.
 

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Tapping the starter probably helped retract the gear that is overshooting the flywheel a tad... Try the washers, and I bet you are golden then
 

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Tapping the starter probably helped retract the gear that is overshooting the flywheel a tad... Try the washers, and I bet you are golden then
Bad69cat, I think you missed the part where he said that he tapped the solenoid, not the starter.
 

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Go buy a starter relay ("solenoid") from a Ford dealer. The parts-store units can have faults causing them to stick. I had this happen, then bought a Ford unit. It has been trouble-free for over twenty years.

This is a Ford starter we are talking about, not a GM-style which can need shims for proper location. Since the step on Ford starters locates the starter in the hole in the engine block, there is no way or need to shim the starter.
 

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Go buy a starter relay ("solenoid") from a Ford dealer. The parts-store units can have faults causing them to stick. I had this happen, then bought a Ford unit. It has been trouble-free for over twenty years.

This is a Ford starter we are talking about, not a GM-style which can need shims for proper location. Since the step on Ford starters locates the starter in the hole in the engine block, there is no way or need to shim the starter.
I will second this, I have not heard of a ford starter ever needing shims.
 
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