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Discussion Starter #1
Hi gurus,

I'm looking to replace my headers (and the whole exhaust system) to a) get a little bit lower temp under the hood, b) try to get a little bit more clearance between the headers and the walls in the engine room, c) get rid of some bad vibration noise from my home built exhaust system, d) get a "nicer" overall sound and look experience.

My current headers pretty much press against the walls in the engine room.

I've been looking at sanders and fpa to achieve above. Are there other headers that you guys recommend. Anyone running these headers in a cougar together with a 351C? For the heat issue I'm aiming on ceramic coating in some form (from factory).

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-FC4-Ford-Cleveland-Header-Set-for-1969-73-Ford-Mustang.html

http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm

All feedback is appreciated.

Many thanks from Sweden,
Hampus
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Missed some crucial information maybe.....

The cougar got;
- a FMX box
- power steering
- Procomp 4v heads

Cheers!
/Hampus
 

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go patriot. I have 1970 351C H Code 2V w/PS w/Manual on the floor. Check the website for correct part. Very good clearance
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Cougar -69 351C, headers fitment...

Hi guys,

Just want to run this by you experts.... :)

I've got my headers and they damn near fit right out the box, just a couple of mm off. What would be the best thing to do here, permanently raise the engine or dent the new headers?

Also, you see the raised edge around each exhaust pipe on the flange, I've read all kinds of threads on this and it seems some people leave them and some grinds them down, what is your experience on this? I'm leaning towards leaving them and see if it leaks or not..

Two pics to better describe the situation, see read arrows on what touch where...

DSC_0066_-_Copy[1].jpg

DSC_0070_-_Copy[1].jpg


Many thanks,
Hampus
 

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Dent the header (unfortunately). Don't grind the raised areas on the flanges. Use gaskets. Believe it or not, I prefer the metal clad gaskets they include in gasket kits for manifolds (they can be bought separately too), the metal sides separate cleanly and they can be re-used for this reason. The paper sort of header gaskets always make a real mess when you have to take the header off (and scraping the head surface in the vehicle is no fun!)

Assume you got the Hooker Headers I suggested then?
 

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Sure, you could do that, good luck with that with the engine installed!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
lol, didn't really think that through... :) Maybe with some heat and a nice big slide hammer, denting from the outside. But still alot more work than denting the pipe itself... I'll let you know how it plays out.

Thanks,
Hampus
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi guys,

This is probably not news to anyone with some experience in owning and restoring old cars, but boy what a hazzle these headers are... So I went with Hooker Competition Full Length Header - Ceramic Coated, partnr "6920-1HKR". Since it's no understatement that I'm an amateur here I expected to get these headers to fix with just a minor dent or two.. How wrong I was.... I've been as creative as everyone else thats every fitted headers on their cars, denting, adjusting screw wholes, different lengths of screws etc etc. But this last issue I cant seem to get by, so I'm thinking I need to change the layout of the pipes (a lot of welding). Below you have pics of issue, the pipes hitting the idler arm in a bad way. I've also attached a pic of my old headers to show the kind of clearance I had with them.

DSC_0341 - Copy.jpg

DSC_0339 - Copy.jpg

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
DSC_0355 - Copy.jpg

I have a "support" case with Holley but I dont feel optimistic about it. Besides I'm located in Sweden, sending the headers back will probably cost me half of the headers or more.

Just want a sanity check before I dig into the headers and create more problems for myself, but do I really have any other options than trying to change the layout of the pipes (welding)?

Thanks!
Hampus
 

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Hi Hampus,

Mine (same ones and I recommended them to you!) hit exactly the same way. I was able to beat a dimple there and in a couple of other spots, trim one frame mount for engine think that was it. Not fun but doable. Hope this helps.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Robert, I'll have another look. it would be the quickest solution to my problem.. I just feelt it needed to much denting at that particular spot (idler arm).

I didn't need to trim the mounts but had to put quite large dents for shock tower wall, power steering box and now idler arm on the headers.

Did you have any issues with the collector flange? Mine pretty much press against the floor. If the flange wasn't welded I would be able to turn them to avoid one screw whole point upwards and touching the floor...

Thanks,
Hampus
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Followup question Robert; in the pic you see one pipe touching the protection rubber on the idler arm. Won't that rubber melt/burn away of the heat from the pipe? Even if I dent it it will be pretty close...

Thanks.
 

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Followup question Robert; in the pic you see one pipe touching the protection rubber on the idler arm. Won't that rubber melt/burn away of the heat from the pipe? Even if I dent it it will be pretty close...

Thanks.
Yes, I was concerned about the same thing but with the approximately 1/4" clearance I managed to achieve it has been fine so far (couple years now).
 

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YEP they always need a little "massaging". Don't forget to use a P/S drop bracket.....and weld it in or use the one that WCCC sells instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
About that ps bracket... I'm also doing a borgeson ps conversion, which eliminates the need of a ps bracket. Or at least I think so... The borgeson kit removes the original rack and pinion which needed the ps bracket. Please correct me if I'm mistaken here...
 
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