Mercury Cougar Owners banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm having trouble with my cooling, and it sounds like it may be a rust-filled radiator. When I bought the car the coolant was brown and contained rust flakes. I have replaced the fluid. The car stays cool (right in the center of the gauge) in town, but after a few minutes on the highway the temperature relatively quickly spikes to 3/4 to 5/6 up the temp gauge and doesn't come down, even at lower speeds. The thing is, when I give it gas with the cap off I see the fluid level drop pretty far. Doesn't that mean the system is circulating well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
839 Posts
It is very common for the Water Passages on the Old Motors to Get Clogged with Rust and Such. It would depend on if the Motor has ever been Rebuilt, to decide if it will need more than a Radiator. If you plan to drive it, and the Condition of the Rad. does not look Satisfactory to you, then Replace it. See how that goes. And while you are at it, Replace the Upper and Lower Hoses if they look Old. It will really all depend on how New or Old the Motor is. Its a Good idea to check the Thermostat while you are doing that. That will be inside the Small Housing that the Upper Rad. Hose Runs Into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
cooling requires a few things - first it must hold pressure - 13-16 lbs or so constant (no soft spongy hoses!). So check that first (or have a shop test it) ---replace rad cap is cheap and so is T-stat! Second it has to flow through the rad pretty well - if it's plugged/caked due to lack of maintenance and age it will not be efficient. Try to asses the condition of the rad - if it appears full of crud - you may want to consider having it boiled out and tested or maybe replacing. Check your fluid if you have changed it out to make sure it's the correct % for your needs. ( -10 F ought to be plenty for Texas I would think) IF you never did a total cooling flush - I'd try that as well. Also - believe it or not motor timing can be a factor in temp as well....might want to check that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
What engine and what size radiator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
In addition to the good advice above, I added one of these filters to a new radiator:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tefb...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a494fe190

I think I improved the design byadding about 4 round magnets inside the filter on the center spindle. The magnets work great for catching the tiniest of rust particles. After several times cleaning the filter, I finally have nothing but green antifreeze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone! Copy Cat, it's a 289 2v. with what I believe is a stock radiator. Catscratch, nice find, I'll have to look into that! I was actually considering draining and refilling my radiator with distilled water a whole bunch of times to get the junk out, but that looks a whole lot easier. Well, tomorrow I'm replacing the thermostat, so we'll see if that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
735 Posts
In addition to the good advice above, I added one of these filters to a new radiator:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tefb...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a494fe190

I think I improved the design byadding about 4 round magnets inside the filter on the center spindle. The magnets work great for catching the tiniest of rust particles. After several times cleaning the filter, I finally have nothing but green antifreeze.
That is a cool product. I found another one similar to that, here are the links.http://www.amazon.com/New-Ford-Mustang-Coolant-Filter/dp/B001990PKG
http://www.restorationperformance.com/servlet/the-135271/1965-dsh-73-Mustang-Coolant-Filter/Detail
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
i PUT A 3 ROW ALUMINUM IN MY 68 WITH ELECTRIC FAN FOR AROUND $375 SHIPPED MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE , AT THIS PRICE JUST TOSS THE OLD OR FLUSH IT OUT REAL GOOD. (LEAD FOOT RACEING) EBAY HAS THE RADIATORS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
735 Posts
That said, a filtration system is critical with an aluminum radiator. They are not as serviceable as a factory radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I ended up not putting the new thermostat in, I figured that I'd better do something about all that gunk or the new one would just go bad anyways, so I decided that before I spent any big money I'd just flush the system a few times with distilled water and then a flushing solution. It's pretty grimy in there, though. I put water in, run it, and get a nasty rust filled green solution. We'll see if I can get it clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
Don't waste your money with distilled water. Your flushing so it dosen't matter. I work all day with chilled water systems. Some use distilled water, some de-ionised water. We still flush them all with tap water. If your feeling brave, get a big jug of vinegar and run that through the system for 10-15 minutes. This will get rid of a lot of junk. The bravery comes in because we've cleaned the system so well that leaks start popping up from where the corrosion was keeping it together. So I guess I should rephrase it to "do you feel lucky?"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
I Had the same problem last year I the flushed the system changed the thermostat added a fan still ran hot. Then a buddy of mine got me a alum 3 core for $150 now she runs cool. http://sillacooling.com/radiators.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
Then a buddy of mine got me a alum 3 core for $150 now she runs cool. http://sillacooling.com/radiators.htm
Same radiator I have in my '68. Works great, and at about 1/3 the price of others on the market. If you go with an aluminum radiator, be sure to ground it (Silla includes a ground wire).
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top