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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

Time for me to get out of the book business and into the key business.....!

I have the ability and equipment from an old Lincoln Mercury dealership, to cut keys for Fords "by the numbers". Instead of copying a worn key to make yet another key that doesn't fit properly, I can cut keys as they would have come from the factory. They are not copies, they are new keys!

I have a certain number of "slotted" generic OEM Ford blanks as opposed to the Ford blanks with small round holes for your key ring, for both the doors and the trunk. I also have later model plastic headed OEM Ford keys as well as Lincoln badged keys. These may be good for a "second set" of keys etc....or a set to toss in the tool box, or in a magnetic key holder.

What I need to do this properly, is the number found on your driver's door lock assy (most of the time!) Sometimes they ended up on the passenger side, but they are supposed to be in the drivers door. This will be an alphanumeric code 6-7 digits long, that I can look up and determine how to set the key cutter to cut the proper depths.

Trunk key codes can be found on the trunk lock assy. May or may not be on the glove box lock.

If you do not have access to the locks, I can try and recreate the proper codes from a current key. This takes more time and has the potential to be wrong if the key is a worn copy of a copy of a copy.....but I can try. No guarantees unless I have one of the door locks or the ignition cylinder.

Sometimes these key codes may have been written in the owners manual! They were also originally stamped into the keys, in the "punch out" area. If your key didn't get punched out....you may still be able to read it....

Pricing: $10 to cut the first key, $5 each after. Trunk or Ignition. Two pairs cut for $20.

Decoding an original key, no codes available: $15

Key blanks: $10 per pair or $7 ignition and $5 trunk sold separately, for each of the "slotted" Ford keys. Off brand keys, $3 each.

So if you were to order a pair of "Ford" keys cut it would run $25. Two pairs $40. Off brand single pair $21, two pair $32.

One pair of Ford and one pair of off brand: $36

If you supply the blanks, I can cut them for only the cutting fee as listed plus return postage.

Shipping $2.50. US first class. Up to 4 keys.

Email me if you need further information.

Steve
Four oh 8- seven two seven- 8 six seven 8 Home# eves and weekends. PST.
 

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Steve, I have some of these key tags.

General Motors had a punch out from the keys, Ford did too?
 

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Numbers located inside or outside?

Steve,

Are the numbers on the lock ass'y located inside or outside. Do I need to remove the lock ass'y from the door to read these numbers?

thanks,
 

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cool... Wish the #'s were easily found on the 67-68 trunk lock. I have a five gallon bucket full of 67-68 rear deck lock assemblies that need a key made for them. I was thinking of dropping them off at the local locksmith and having him make keys for them in their down time but am still afraid to ask how much that would run!



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I lost the trunk/glove box key to my '68 about 5 years ago and haven't been in the truck since. The Owner Identification is completed in my owner's manual but no key info was recorded. I can't find any numbers on the glove box. Would I be better off drilling out the trunk lock & getting a new set or try to remove the rear seat & crawl into the trunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
VMACK,

You can just pop the rear seat, and using every 3/8" extension that you and your neighbor own, and take out the two bolts holding the striker piece into the body...... deck lid will pop right up!

Biggest problem with the 67-68's is that you really need to pick the lock to get the locking pin out. If you try and pry the pin out, you stand the chance of destroying the lock housing....... You turn the key to the right, then you can push the pin in and the lock pops right out.

Picking the lock can be a real PITA too!!!! Last 67-68 lock assy took me about 10 minutes of working on it ....off and on. It was pretty danged frustrating!!!! But it eventually happened.....got the code, cut the key, and it worked like a champ!

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don,

Thanks for the pictures of the codes and the various tags and locations!!!!

Some of the Ford keys had the codes stamped in the rectangular area that get's punched out for your key ring.......

Good job!
Sending you a PM.
Steve
 

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Fastmerc is awesome!

Steve just did a set of keys for me for the 67 XR7 I got 6 weeks ago with no keys , I pulled the trunk lock and driver door lock he made the keys they work great!! (now I just have to get the car running:bloated:)

Hands down Steve is da man! :beer::beer::beer::beer:

btw on my trunk lock no numbers! we did find the numbers on the glove box door!!!

Juli :wave:
 

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VMACK,

You can just pop the rear seat, and using every 3/8" extension that you and your neighbor own, and take out the two bolts holding the striker piece into the body...... deck lid will pop right up!


Steve
Cool, thanks Steve! I'll get it pulled and send it to ya, or how about instead I remove the glove box lock, can you figure out the key combo using that lock?

Vaughn
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Vaughn,

You can pop the glove box lock easy enuf and check, but I think the code was actually on the trunk lock.....Juli was mistaken. (67-68)

If you can pick the lock and pop it out of the lock housing, cool, then you can just send me the code.

If not, just send me the entire assembly, I'll work on it, cut a key or two, put it back together, and send it back.

No promises on lock picking.....I didn't attend classes..... :icon16:

Ping me when you are ready!
Steve
 

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3/8 extensions, i have 3 30 inchers! covering the distance is no prob for me! .
 

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Steve,

I recently picked up two Ford blanks to have them cut for my 69 vert...the trunk key is correct, however the ignition key was too short and doesn't work. I've attached a JPG showing the discrepancy. Is there a way to make a Ford key from the ACE hardware key? see below...

1) is the trunk key - Correct length.
2) is the ignition key - Cut for my current 69 cougar convertible. But is too short and won't turn in the ignition.
3) is my original ignition key from my old 69 cougar hardtop (parted and gone now) Correct length.
4) is the key made at ACE hardware for my current 69 cougar convertible. Correct length and this key works fine.

2) and 4) are the same key cut for my current vert.

Hope this can be done...

Key Monkey wrench Tool
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Morz,

The two short keys are actually the correct length for your 69. These were "6" cut or something like that, and the others are "10" cut, hence the additional length. Something to do with late models and using different tumbler positions for the ignition than the doors....

The late ones can work in the earlier cars, there will just be more meat at the head end that isn't cut.

I'm guessing that the key shop didn't cut the short one correctly.....cuz it is correct! Try pulling it out a smidge from "full in" and also try "more in" if that is possible. Take the two, long and short, and line them up by the small ends....see how well they match......cuz they should.

Steve
 

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Steve,

OK. Thanks for the explanation of the problem. Makes sense...and Thanks. I'll give it another try and go to a locksmith instead of ACE hardware...hope it works correctly this time.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Morz,

Just keep in mind it's not that ACE doesn't have good equipment, it is the operator that makes the difference......!!!! If their cutter is setup properly and adjusted....there should be no issues....but operator error! I'm guessing that something is off just a hair.....

Problem over the years, is that you are working off of a cut key, that may have worn....that was then "copied" by a duplicator...which duplicated the wear....and then that key was used...and wore...and now is copied...and so on and so on...until the copies no longer work.

This is when cutting a key by code restores everything (but the worn tumblers!) to original.....

Good luck!
Steve
 

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A local key shop I use has made up all the master for the ignition and trunk keys. He has 65 keys for each double sided so 130 different combinations for each. He use to loan them out, but was missing four of them so he no longer lets them go out on loan. Two of my cars needed two of the masters he was missing. He went from scratch and made new masters off of my locks. That was interesting watching him read the tumblers and filing to match. A real art form. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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Fasmerc - maybe you could do the same to make some money. Make up all the masters then charge to loan them out.<o:p></o:p>
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Easier just to have you send me your lock code.....then I can cut the keys....!!! :) :) :)

I'd be out of keys in no time! What I don't understand is why only 130 combos..... There are 6 tumblers I believe, and 5 depths, so that is 6 to the 5th power or something like that....7000+ combos. I know I have a few pages in the lock book.....that are full of numbers...and columns....

Steve
 
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