Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
question. Will a set of 69 mach 1 clutch pedals work in a 70 cougar? A local salvage yard nearby where i`m getting the 70 xr7 vert parts car has a 69 mach 1 that has no drivetrain but badly rusted and has the clutch pedals still in it. I plan on putting a standard back in my 70 eliminaor but was wondering while i`m here if they do work i`ll take them out of the car and buy them. Since my car will be a 5 speed these may work good and to my advantage.
thanks
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Hey Pat,

Get them, they are somewhat hard to come by. Make sure to get both brake and clutch pedals, and all the pieces of linkage and Z bar, you can get the hanger for the pedals too, but I believe that it may be the same as the auto car hanger.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,404 Posts
it would be worth getting the support cuz of the big green spring for the clutch pedal. Grab the whole assembly.

Rick
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
clutch pedals

OK
sounds cool, i know the guy wont take em out cause i have a feeling he doesnt know that there still in there. Be good for me to get it all.Cool deal now how would i wire the tranny for when the car goes into reverse to have the rear backup lights light up? just splice them from the auto to the manual setup?
thanks
pat
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Rick

Thanks Rick
sounds like the pieces are starting to fit in 1 another here lol..
thanks again rick
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
won't fit....

69 pedals and hanger won't fit a 70. they are all different despite what many people think. the brake booster arm changed from 69 to 70 so the pin that the booster is attached to is in a different location. if you use the 69 booster that will work. the clutch pedal is also different because of the steering column of all things! when the column was redesigned with the lock in it, the hanger was changed rather dramatically to clear the new components. this change required moving the snubber for the clutch pedal so the tab the snubber hits on the pedal was redesigned for a rubber bumper. you can use a 70 clutch pedal on a 69 but if you go the other way you may find an obnoxious rattle or outright interference. now all of that being said, a 69 pedal set is worth good money and i usually get 150 with a good hanger on e-bay. hawkrod
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
oh well

Looks like i`ll have to make a few phone calls when the time is right and call a few mustang places for a set from a 70. to bad this car wasnt a 69 i be all set but no big deal i`m sure i`ll come across a set at a local swap meet this comming march in daytona.
thanks
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,112 Posts
Pat,
I just picked up a complete 69 assembly for my '70. I compared the auto '70 brake pedal to the manual '69 brake pedal and see zero difference. I don't see how it couldn't work. In fact, I'll hook it up tonight (69 manual pedal to the '70 support) and verify that it will work. As for the clutch pedal, I'm going with a cable clutch so I don't need the z-bar spring part. I'm going to cut it off the 69 pedal which will hopefully make for enough room to have it work on the '70 pedal support. I'll try and do a test fit of that tonight too and let you know what i find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Hey Pat, how much is left of that Mach 1? In what town is that car? I don't live too far away and could always use the parts, if there are any worth saving. By the way, too bad you didn't make it to the Turkey Rod Run, I've heard a lot about your 70 convertible and was looking forward to seeing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,112 Posts
Well, I just took a closer look of the situation. Hawkrod is right on. The 69 brake pedal will not work on a '70. Not that this is a problem though, as the 70 auto brake pedal can simply be cut to fit a manual size pad and bezel.

As for the clutch pedal, it does fit and there is no interference at all. I do see the clunk issue that Hawkrod spoke of though, as there is no rubber tab present. However, it looks like it should be fairly easy to glue on a piece of rubber to the pedal support to act as a tab and prevent the clunking sound.

Pat, grab the clutch pedal. You will be able to use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
i am restoring a 70 eliminator. the owner bought a 70 parts car and it is a 3 speed std. if you are interested in the set-up let me know and i will find out what he wants. nailhead
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,142 Posts
Have pedals

I have a set of 1970 pedals (clutch, brake) and linkage I'm interested in selling. Will be on ebay soon if no takers....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
SCORED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
a complete set of clutch pedals,the bracket for the column and the rest of the parts, minus the linkage and stuff for 120.00 out of a 70 mustang.The guy even offered to sandblast them and paint them for me..
Awesome i am siched
thanks
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
Pat.. Question

Are you going with a different clutch than the 3 finger style? I strongly suggest getting a Center Force. I love the feel compared to the Boss. In fact, the Boss get a new Center Force soon!
The bushings in the support are the problem. They are aluminum and wear out. Vic Yarberry modifies these and installs berrings. If your berrings are worn, use the suppost from an automatic car. They were never used, so they will be like new. Add new bushings & lube & shift away!!

Cougar Bill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Bill
yes i plan on going with a centerforce clutch. It will be a tremec 5 speed so i want all the good racing aftermarket parts i can make this tranny perform to its peak.Should be nice when i got almost everything i need to start the prodject when the time comes. I`d like to drive this 1 when its finished to the 2007 nationals. gives me 4 1/2 years do work onit. Should be plenty of time.
thanks
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
Re: Pat.. Question

Cougar Bill said:

The bushings in the support are the problem. They are aluminum and wear out. Vic Yarberry modifies these and installs berrings. If your berrings are worn, use the suppost from an automatic car. They were never used, so they will be like new. Add new bushings & lube & shift away!!

Cougar Bill
The aluminum bushings have plastic inserts that keep the aluminum from wearing. Due to age and stiff pedal pressures in the 60's-70's, these plastic bushings wore quickly and egg-shaped the aluminum (actually soft babbit type material). The 2 hole flange bearings are an alternative, but totally overkill in a mild street car with a diaphragm clutch setup (IMHO).

For Hi-performance applications where "no-lifting" speed shifting is needed, I recommend a 3 finger long style pressure plate setup. The diaphragm pressure plate has a much slower finger ratio, meaning smooth engagement but not necessarly a clean release under power. 3 finger long style has a quick ratio, but the downside is a stiff clutch pedal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,758 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Question,
has anyone converted their car from auto to a standard? I seen the layout for the setup in a mustangs unliminted catalog that has the pieces they sell and it looks like a complicated setup to install. But i am stillwaiving my optins.Could also go with a mark piechowski built AOD. But i wanna make the car for a little 1/4 mile action as well as pro touring car.
thanks
pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Hey Pat,
Wvcat was a FMX (original) then a toploader and now an AOD. I cut my stock brake pedal to fit a standard brake pad and used a 69 clutch pedal. When I changed back it was easy to find a brake pedal. BTW I think the AOD swap is easier but the standard is probably more fun to drive.
John
wvcat
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top