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Discussion Starter #1
After many of hours of sanding blocking painting....I sprayed my 67 cougar with a blue metallic paint and 3 coats of clear coat. I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit then 2000 grit to take out the scratches. I buffed the car with a medium to heavy compound. Now the clear coat is cloudy in some spots. What is the fix for this? Any suggestions? Why did this happen?

-Mike
 

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How long did you let the clear cure? Did you rinse your work off and squeegee every few minutes to check your progress? What were you buffing with? Do the areas in question look like a collection of fine scratches or just simply a uniform dullness? Not being able to see in person it could be an area where the sanding scratches have not been fully removed. Or, could be an area where you burned through the clear.

I once color sanded a color by hand going the 1000, 1500, 2500 route before buffing. Have never done it again. I use 3M 1500 Trizact Clear Coat discs on my Makita rotary and rinse often. Easy to see the paint level to a point I am satisfied with. I leave some orange peal ala the way things were in the 60's. Then I use 3000 Trizact disc which almost does polish the paint. Then minimally buff from there.
 

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How long did you let the clear cure? Did you rinse your work off and squeegee every few minutes to check your progress? What were you buffing with? Do the areas in question look like a collection of fine scratches or just simply a uniform dullness? Not being able to see in person it could be an area where the sanding scratches have not been fully removed. Or, could be an area where you burned through the clear.

I once color sanded a color by hand going the 1000, 1500, 2500 route before buffing. Have never done it again. I use 3M 1500 Trizact Clear Coat discs on my Makita rotary and rinse often. Easy to see the paint level to a point I am satisfied with. I leave some orange peal ala the way things were in the 60's. Then I use 3000 Trizact disc which almost does polish the paint. Then minimally buff from there.
Just to be clear, did you use a rotary or orbital sander?
 

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A Makita rotary sander is used for color compounding and buffing. Then a Makita random orbital is used to remove the swirls left from buffing.
 

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We had the same problem with the finish on my 68...some spots were best described as 'hazy'. Turns out the heavy cut compound wasn't used long enough on those areas, or possibly the surface got a little too dry. Going over it again with the heavy (a little longer), fine, then machine glaze - always making sure there was plenty of water on the surface, brought it back to uniform clear gloss! That is just the experience my brother and I saw as we tried working ours out...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had a friend look at it...he offered to paint it at his shop for the cost of materials...so this time next week I will be done with body work!
 

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I'd try Collins method first - might save you some work/cost. You aren't out anything by trying it at this point.
 
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