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I have been here in years, Im happy to see the forum is still here. I have been trying to look for engine builders in the Maryland area who know Clevelands. I got quote from a builder here who specializes in Clevelands and quoted me a total rebuild for $10k at 5-600 HP. This company makes race engines and Both numbers are more than what i need and can afford...

Or should I try and rebuild myself and send the block to get, dipped, honed...?
 

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I struggled with this similar question. I have notice in my opinion what seems to be a trend in the industry, that because they are not getting the same level of business that they used to, they are essentially ripping people off by charging ridiculous prices for things. Now I will admit that making a profit is essential to staying in business but ripping people off is immoral. So, now that I have ranted for a few mins, I think if you have the know how you should give it a go yourself. I still have a Cleveland sitting in my garage completely taken apart waiting for another project. Mostly, Because I couldn't find anyone in Colorado that would build it for under 12k. Madness, maybe it is just the Cleveland itself that causes them to jack the price up. Good luck
 

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Thanks AIRBORNE, so maybe at $10k I'm getting a steal... LOL
 

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I had mine done two years ago. mostly stock with the exception of a roller cam. $4400.00 It's not 5-600 HP though.
 

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That doesn't sound like a bad price for 5-600 HP. I have more than that in mine at the same power level, with me building it. But I used a lot of custom and top quality parts. For a basic rebuild, it isn't all that neccessary to find someone that is a Cleveland expert, you just need to tell them what to look for and what you need done.
 

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That doesn't sound like a bad price for 5-600 HP. I have more than that in mine at the same power level, with me building it. But I used a lot of custom and top quality parts. For a basic rebuild, it isn't all that neccessary to find someone that is a Cleveland expert, you just need to tell them what to look for and what you need done.
Good to know, thanks.
 

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Geeze guys - you want 500hp? No problem - Send me your engine and four grand... Building a 500hp engine is NOT something that takes $10k! What magical fairy dust do they have that costs that much???

In all seriousness, a 10 - 10.5:1 motor, with a retrofit (or not) hydraulic roller (or solid roller) cam, a little head work (especially on your small-valve D3ZZ-AA heads) and you'll have 500hp easy. To clarify 'head work', most of that entails installing the 2.19/1.73 valves. blending those larger valves to the ports and converting from pedestal (non adjustable) rockers to stud-mount adjustables... Or if you want CHI aluminum heads for some extra $$... Still waaaaay below $10K
 

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You can build it yourself and save yourself some money. I built my Cleveland in my garage with a couple of engine manuals, tools and confidence that I could do the job. The block, head and engine balance work you need to outsource but you can do the assembly. For 500 hp with streetable maners I would recommend a 408 stroker kit. All the best with your rebuild.

Hawk1
 

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Any stroked engine would idle smoother and provide more low- to midrange grunt than a non-stroked engine with the same cam.

A 393-inch Cleveland kit, with big valve 4V heads at 10.5:1 compression, with a Comp cams 284 Magnum retrofit roller cam will get you around 600hp. Or with a base (non-stroked) motor with the same cam will get a tad less peak power but at the cost of getting it at higher RPMs.
 

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Any stroked engine would idle smoother and provide more low- to midrange grunt than a non-stroked engine with the same cam.

A 393-inch Cleveland kit, with big valve 4V heads at 10.5:1 compression, with a Comp cams 284 Magnum retrofit roller cam will get you around 600hp. Or with a base (non-stroked) motor with the same cam will get a tad less peak power but at the cost of getting it at higher RPMs.
I don't see that cam making anywhere near that kind of power. Maybe 500, maybe, but not 600. Mine is considerably bigger than that and desktop dyno says mine is at 625.

I just did some mathematizing, and I have about 6800 in mine, plus other stuff I am sure I left out. That is carb to oil pan, but not including dizzy or water pump, or machine work, add another close to 2k for machine work. Plus there is all the hardware if you don't want to use crappy old nuts and bolts, and a better pulley set because the factory stuff isn't good much over 5500.
 

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I was confused before but I'm really confused now. When I rebuilt my vert H code, I had about $3200.00 including machine shop .30 bore. He was able to turn crank .10 over and save rods everything else was new. He constructed the short block and I wrenched the rest. Sal
 

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Have you called around and talked to a few machine shops? Try and get a few prices for different services. I.E., shop A, how much to bore, and turn crank, shop B, how much to do the C heads specifically..All these numbers seem high to me.
 

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Geeze guys - you want 500hp? No problem - <snip>

and you'll have 500hp easy.
Curious...how many dyno proven 500HP Clevelands have you built? The build you mention is a bit tougher than you make it sound. Post up over on the Cleveland forum to share with the world how *easy* it is.
 

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I haven't built a Cleveland in years, but that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about! My 480hp (400 crank hp) 393W was built for under $3k, albeit using used heads... Would I want it to run at peak power level for a 500-mile race - no. But for the normal street driving (plus the dozen times a year I take my car to the dragstrip) it is doing just fine - for the last four years!

OK, back to the topic --

OK, if you want a forged 383C or 408C kit, (forged crank, H-beam rods, forged pistons, rings, bearings, and balancing), that is ~$2k. The cast kit I linked earlier would be fine for a street motor. Do the headwork to install the bigger 70-72 valves into the '73 4V heads for ~$800 (including valves) Figure another $400 for block prep. Add new timing set, oil pump, pump drive... $200. Retrofit roller cam kit $700. Pushrods - $100 Gasket set - $100. Intake manifold (Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap) - $300. Roller rockers (Harland Sharp) - $250, New water pump (just because) and rebuilt Duraspark distributor -- $120.

Total - $4970

Of course, the cast rotating kit I linked to earlier would be about $600 cheaper, so that's a total of $4270. That includes things (like the intake manifold, water pump, distributor) that drove the cost to over $4k...

Or get a pair of Trick Flow aluminum heads for $2k and forget the machining to the cast iron 4V heads - $2k for the Trick flows minus the machining to the stock heads, so that's an additional $1300. Total cost now $6270

OK, so what do YOU see wrong with my thinking??? According to my computer software predictions (both DD2000 and Comp Cams CamQuest6), with the components I specified above, ANY of those kits will produce over 500 crank horsepower, and most would be knocking on or even a bit above the 600hp threshold!
 

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Ok, I *could* see how a 408C would get there but let's talk a 351C for a minute. Think you could get there on 351 cubes? :) Street driven? Pump gas (93 octane)?
It keeps getting tougher even with head mods. I've built numerous Clevelands over the years and have 580HP on a 351C and it's no easy chore but it's not street friendly. 400-425 is much easier. Similar experience over on the 351C board -- not a lot of 500HP street engines.

Also, what did you mean by your 480HP (400 crank) statement? Typo?
 

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According to Comp Cams CamQuest6 the engine i built is putting out 544hp and 485lbs ft
I spent a little over 5000 to build it myself. i had my block machined .030 over, put edelbrock heads on, comp cam deh265, with dual plane manifold, a 750 holley and hooker headers. I drive my car about every other day. I have no reliability issues.
 

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Hey 71cougar. My cleveland which I built myself probably makes 350-400 Hp. You live pretty close to myself and if you are up for it we can meet up at the Sacramento dragstrip to run the Cougars. Just for fun. I am running 70 series street tires so I don't have a serious drag machine.
 
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