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Discussion Starter #1
Have you ever pulled the axles on a 9 inch rearend? I think I know how to pull the axles out but I need to pull the bearings off and put new seals on (Is it worth trying to save the old bearings?).....with that said I'm guessing I will need to put new bearings on but how to pull the old races out of the housing?? Any ideas?
 

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Have you ever pulled the axles on a 9 inch rearend? I think I know how to pull the axles out but I need to pull the bearings off and put new seals on (Is it worth trying to save the old bearings?).....with that said I'm guessing I will need to put new bearings on but how to pull the old races out of the housing?? Any ideas?
No races on the bearings -- it's the sealed / caged type. Just slips into the housing. Will need a pro to replace the actual bearing.

The seals are kindy of crabby to get out -- renting a puller at Autozone might help. :)
 

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Also no need to pull the bearings to replace the seals, the seal goes in the housing side. Also make sure that after tapping the new ones in, that the tension spring that goes around the inner part of the seal didn't come loose. I had to replace a leaky seal on mine, only to find out that it was because this spring had popped off.
 

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Michael,

This should probably go into "Don's Favorite Tools" thread, but you do not need a seal puller. Seals can be a pain, but I learned a trick years ago that works perfect. Use the spline end of the axle......slide it about 1/2 to an inch past the seal and then just angle the axle about 45 degrees; it will grab in behind the seal and pop it right out. Never fails and works on all cars. Be ready for some oil to drip out of the housing from behind the seal.

As far as the bearing goes, a machine shop is probably your best bet. If you use a parts store that has a machine shop, they will probably be pretty fair on the price. Plus, if by chance they mess up the job, they can't blame it on YOUR bearing.

You can snap the bearing retainer off with a chisle, and then the same with the bearing, but it is a pain. I've used an exhaust cut off wheel to score the retainer and bearing...makes them snap easier with a chisle. If you decide to do this, try heating the new bearing and retainer in a pan of motor oil on a hot plate, that will make it much easier to install.

Overall, unless you have a big press and the right adapters, it is money well spent to let a machine shop do it, IMO.

If you can't get the axle out of the housing, put a brake drum on backwards and then install lug nuts about half way. You can then use the drum like a slide hammer to pop the axle out.

Steve
 

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do NOT try to use a napa seal in a 9" rear---the seal is made of too thin of steel and will deform and leak around the od---get a real seal from ford or a bearing house---i speak from experience
doctordesoto
 

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I've always used the upper jaw on a pair of channel lock pliers to pop the seal out. Simply slide the pliers to to their maximum opening and insert the upper jaw into the seal opening. You can pop the seal right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
do NOT try to use a napa seal in a 9" rear---the seal is made of too thin of steel and will deform and leak around the od---get a real seal from ford or a bearing house---i speak from experience
doctordesoto
So I get that the seals are inside of the axle housing.<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" id=Picture_x0020_2 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>
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<v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif">http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/02/nineinch/index.shtml</v:imagedata></v:shape>
<v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>
<v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif">Thanks guys for your help , so who has a good seal?</v:imagedata></v:shape>
<v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>
<v:shape style="WIDTH: 600pt; HEIGHT: 629.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:href="cid:[email protected]" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\michael\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif">Michael</v:imagedata></v:shape>
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought it was pretty good too.

But what's a good brand seal to buy for a 9" rearend??

Thanks Michael
 

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Something else you might consider replacing since they're so cheap are the gaskets between the axle housing and brake backing plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys everything worked out great!!

Michael
 
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