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Discussion Starter #1
Hey

I am replacing my headlight covers with ones that are in better shape but, I have hit a wall in the installation process. I have purchased a new backing and walking cat emblem. I have removed the old cat and back ground and replaced them with the new ones.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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Now I am not sure on what I have to do, to the studs they are thinner than the holes on the plate. The original cat looked like it was either melted on or smashed in with a hammer. i am not sure what i need to do to secure it in place.<o:p></o:p>
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Do i melt the studs in place?<o:p></o:p>
Do I use glue to hold it in place? or do I smash it with a hammer. Hitting it with a hammer so it mushrooms out seems like a bad idea as the studs are flimsy and might break.<o:p></o:p>
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Any guidance you could give would be much appreciated!<o:p></o:p>
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Thanks

Dutch
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I dont think that will work, The studs are so small and im not that good at metal work. It looks like it was melted. I and having so much trouble trying to install them. The studs were mushroomed out on the originals. So the question is how do I get them to that stage?
 

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Assume you have a 67 by your sig? If yes, are the backs of the studs visible on the back of the cover? If yes, use push nuts or the type of nuts used on marker light bezels. If no (meaning they are covered), I agree with the Doc, and this is just what I did on my 69 headlight door, think I may have actualy been able to thread them for 4-40 rather than 2-56 (although I did do some 2-56 on something, maybe the surround). Did the same thing on the gas tank door crest, I had originally used "Goop" but decided that I wanted to avoid the possibility of one day finding one or more of my emblems had fallen off without my knowledge and ended up "road pizza".

If you do not feel up to the task, find someone that can do it for you, it really is the best way. You really cannot reproduce the original peening without hosing the whole shooting match up.

Regards,

Bob
 

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the process was done @ the factory with heat , a press , and a fixture---if your really set on riviting them on , lay the cat on a piece of hard wood and the door on top of it---pass your propane torch over the studs and get them hot--using a 3/8 dia drift punch give it a hard hit---have someone hold the h/l door tight to the cat bezzel---the 2-56 screws work wonderfull--you must have a friend thats a machinist
doctordesoto
 

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You can use a piece of thin double sided tape,and mix a little JB-Weld to put in the holes with the pins, when it dries it looks like it's never been out. I have used the JB-Weld by itself and it is still holding.
 

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Thanks for the info guys, Yeah i did a little research and it was done at the factory, ( very hard to reproduce for a guy at home) I am goint to try and get the threaded. Seems like the best way for the cat not to fall off. I will also you a little of JB weld just as insurance. God 2 years in the making and Im still messing with the small things, seems I will never be finished. There is always room for improvement. But you should have seen this cat when I first got it, and to where its at now...... here is a picture of the trunk 2 years ago.....
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All the body work done by me!! Not too bad for a guy who has never painted or done body work before!!! The internet is a beautiful thing thats where i i learned how to do it. Pics are bad cause I too them at night but what do you think???

Thanks

Dutch
 
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