Mercury Cougar Owners banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Enevetably while doing front end work the cotter pin that is rusted into the castle nut will break. Not enough to get a hold of with needle nose plyers but not broken off far enough in to power the nut and brake the pin clean off. Rusted enough the nail and hammer trick does not work.

What now? Any creative ideas to get that pin out?

BTW..... similar topic. Before I tackle the brake upgrade I am buying a ball joint / tierod end seperator tool. Not a pickle fork but the clamp looking kind that push the ball joint out without ripping the rubber or mushrooming the bolt head. Cant believe I made it this far without one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
759 Posts
Have you tried drilling it out? Cotter pins are pretty soft metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
630 Posts
ditto on the ball joint tool lot better than beating on a pickle fork , have you tried cussing at the pin ? might try spraying with some brake cleaner to get some of the crud out then dig at it with a dental pick, why do they always break off when their at the worst possible angle to get to
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,950 Posts
My vote is for cussing it out too Tim! LOL If you can't drift it out - drill it out with a good quality bit. I bought some cobalt drill bits many years ago and I'll tell you - no looking back. The only thing they won't cut is steel that has been nitrided......I thik they were Nitto brand and have an excellent grind on the end for self-starting easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Plenty of cussin. Even did warm ups. Get a laugh at this. I was removing the disk brake system off a salvage car I have to sell a buddy locally. As ee all know every nut is a castle and the strut rod has a pin through the bolts at the tip. The car is mostly disasymbled stored in an old 40 foot over the road trailer a friend has because it is not road worthy any more. So there is about a foot on each side with the fenders off. The upper A-arm is already unbolted from the shock tower so it is free and constantly in the way. All the oins broke off. I am in th middle of nowhere at a friends storage lot with only one outlet and no drill bits. I remove the strut rods ok but that is it. The lower A-arms are unboltd but frozen with ruet and the stabliser bar is not budging. Out comes the sawzall. An hour of cutting and I get nowhere but pi$$ed. My son is helping me and at this point even a 14 year olds perspective is better than mine. The question everyone us asking is "where is the cutting torch"? Did not bring it. Plus the structure is wood and lots of leaking fluid. Probably best I did not. We tried everything. Breaking the ball joints. Cutting the stableuzer bar up link bolt. Heck, cutting the lower A-arm. Not enough electicity and crap blades. Finally I had him muscle while I used the dead blow to take the entire system out in one piece still attached to the sway bar. We now have a very unstable wobbly 100 lb barbell. It is home waiting for me to devise a plan to break it down before Saturday. All the brake parts are in great shape. I just did not bring a drill or a nail to deal with the broken cotter pins an hour from home. Now I know why (back I'm the 80's & 90's) when you went to the salvage yard they always brough out the spindles attached to the freshly torched A-arms. Took them 10 min what took me and the boy 5 hours.

When I got home I got my torch and was ready to show that thing what for......... no gas!!!!!!! Done for the day before something fflys across the garage and brakes a window.

Moral of the story. Always have the right tool for the job or have lots of time to waste.

My want list now has a new 18V Ryobi impact drill and a gas refill for my torch. Also a punch set and some new carbide drill bits (since I cant find mine) headed out to soak it in trans fluid to soften it up. Maybe I will bet lucky and the fluid will eat up the rusty A-arms and problem solved.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top