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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just replaced my points and condensor and starter solenoid and now my car wont start. It will wind and try and start but wont roll over. it acts like i have a dead battery and everytime i try and start the car while jumping it it will jst wind until i take off the jumper cable. what could be causin the issue here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you gap the points, and why did you replace the solenoid?


Okay so last night i was workinig on my buddys car beside mine and there was no issues. I walked into my garage and smelt the smell of burning electricity. There was a smoke fog in the air so i was freaking out. It was comming from my engine bay so i disconnected the batery. Id been having problems my car. I put an ignitor 3 in the car 2 weeks ago and have issues ever since. I was told by another memebr to wire my ignitor directly to my stater solenoid to get the full 12vlts to it. I ripped the ignitor 3 out of the car and tried to replace everything i had previously taken out. Now that i have the points in the distributor gapped at .017 the car wont crank and wont stop winding unless i unhook the battery
 

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You probably have a bad solenoid, also make sure you don't have the two small wires on the I & S posts reversed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And I double checked the I and S ports and i believe those are correct. I put them back on the way I always had them
 

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Buy a solenoid from FORD. Parts store units cost less but they are crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
regardless of crap crap solenoids and I got my from NAPA it should still start. What is causing my engine to continue to run after turning the key off and why will it not roll over? like i said last night something electrical was burning in my engine bay. Not sure what it was though
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
regardless of crap crap solenoids and I got my from NAPA it should still start. What is causing my engine to continue to try and start after turning the key off and why will it not roll over? like i said last night something electrical was burning in my engine bay. Not sure what it was though
 

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I was told by another memebr to wire my ignitor directly to my stater solenoid to get the full 12vlts to it.
Did you try running it from the Coil? I run mine from the coil and it has been working great!

You may have the positions switched.
 

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Trouble shooting electrical problems is difficult in the best case and impossible without ACCURATE information.

Your problem began when you incorrectly installed the Ignitor. Exactly where did you attach each wire? There are four posts on the solenoid.
 

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Which post are you calling the "ignition side"? The large post on the battery side is the main power feed. The first small post, on the battery side is the power from the key switch during start. The second small post is the resistor wire bypass to the coil during start. The other large post is the output to the starter motor.
 

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It sounds like you may have attached the Pertronix to the main power feed post on the coil. This would keep the Pertronix powered at all times. Eventually it would have overheated and burnt up if it was stopped in-between the open and closed position. That is probably what you burnt up.

What does "bypassed the coil" mean exactly what wire did you run where?
 

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So the car won't roll over, but will it sit? Beg? If neither of these as well, you have a serious problem on your hands :buck:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i ran the ignitor to the starter solenoid to bypass having to go through the coil. I ran i hooked up the coil to the original wires that go to the resitor and what not
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
regardless of the ignitor because i know i screwed that up. I am putting points back into my distributor. Now when i put everything back together to put back in the distributor the top plate wont stay snug. in other words when i try and set my points or just touch the top plate where the condensor and points are attached to it wobbles ALOT am i missing a piece or something to keep the top plate from wobling
 
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