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Discussion Starter #1
My 67 has an original 18" radiator that has sprung a leak. I ordered a 3 core 20" from WCCC. I hate to get rid of my 18", but it did cause the engine to run hot at idles. Can a 18" be upgraded to 3 or 4 core so I can keep the original radiator in my car and not have to worry about it running hot? Is there anything else that can be done to improve the cooling of an 18" radiator? THANKS
 

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Yes. Your favorite radiator shop should be able to order you a new core in 3 or 4 rows that your existing frame and tanks can be re-used on. You also may even be able to buy an entire new assembly as you wish but I am not as sure on that as I am about recoring.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would the additional cores give me the cooling I am looking for and prevent the running hot at idle? I wouldn't have a problem spending the 4-5 hundred dollars to keep my car original but I would go with the upgrade of the 20" radiator (which I already ordered) and shroud if a 3 or 4 core 18" radiator wasn't going to make a difference.
 

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In my opinion, your original radiator should not have a problem cooling your engine under any circumstances, idling or otherwise. A gunked up radiator on the other hand might. Or, something else like loose timing chain/gears (and altered cam timing thereby) or ignition timing perhaps.

Since there are multiple things that can cause the manifestation of a cooling problem, there is no slam dunk answer to your particular problem. The radiator is one possibility, if you have shotgunned the problem correctly, then any good radiator (18" original style or 20" with more cores) should solve the problem. Your original that sprung a leak could be flowing poorly. Hopefully since this is the direction you have gone, that will be the case!
 

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Funny, I thought the standard radiator in all 67 to 70 Cougars was a 20 inch, and the upgrade was a 24 inch. As I recall a Mustang with a 6 cylinder had a 68 inch. But I have been wrong before, just as long as I'm not always wrong.
 

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You are correct on size, and as for cooling, back in the the day when all was new and the traffic was light, there wasn't a problem, but now with a light on every corner and a lot more corners these engines are prone to run hotter because they don't have time to cool-thus electric fans on newer cars. In the late 60's there was only four traffic lights on Rt.220 through my town, now there is a gizallion of them, how would it be on a 90 degree day in a 428 with air in a traffic jam??
 

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Don, that looks like a nice set up, that should keep things cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's what I bought, but I hate giving up my original radiator no matter how bad an idea it was. I'm sorry but FoMoCo stamped on my radiator gives me a chubby. If I can get it recored with 3 or 4 cores I may do it. If not I'll be ordering the shroud to go with the 20" radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Additionally, my cars normal temp was about 1/3 up the gage. Would move up to about 2/3 at idle at a light or traffic then back down after moving again. All clear inside, just the nature of the 18" beast I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well I got my 20" radiator from WCCC today and I must say I'm not 100% happy. It definitely seems to be cooling the engine better. But to start, it was a very tight squeeze. I had to pry the radiator up then tighten the bolts to prevent the fan from hitting the top hose. It still only has about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch of clearance. If I move it up to the next bolt holes, the fan hits the transmission coolant lines. Without doing a 1:1 comparison, it appears the top hose is more towards center also because to get a good top hose fit I would need to remove a piece of the middle to shorten it side ways. It came with no shiny new nipples for the transmission lines and the drain plug was small and painted black, very misleading from the picture. And just a minor quirk, the radiator cap doesn't fit very tight and is crooked. Again, very disappointing. I did get a chance to better examine my old 18" radiator. It had 3 cores so a recore was done at some point. I think I will see if my local radiator repair can salvage it. If it can I'll have it done. Sometimes there's nothing like the original, I wish I had gone down that road to begin with.
 

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HUH - I know that the 20" rad's are tight on space and come very close to the hoses - you do need to have new hoses so that you can trim them to clear the fan and it's tight! Mine are less thatn 1/4" in spots......but the cooling capacity makes it it worth it
 

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FWIW - I think there is a shorter fan spacer which would move the fan a bit further inboard.....I think I need to come up with one myself. I haven't put top priority on it since I really don't have any cooling issues even without the shroud (except on really hot days in heavy stop light traffic) - so I need to get off my lazy duff and gather up the correct parts to get it done right - the shrouds aren't cheap though.....
 

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One thing that has been screwing 67 owners up for years is that there are no repro 67 motor mounts available anywhere, period. It's been that way since the 80's. Almost nobody has the original motor mounts marked C7ZZ in the rubber still in place after all these years. ALL of the suppliers (except WCCC) list 67-70 as the same mount and this is DEAD WRONG. You can force 68 mounts in place but it will change your motor height if you hog out the holes and make them fit. Just an idea...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Even if the top hose was removed it would hit the where the hose attaches. And it's not the distance between the radiator and the engine it's the distance sideways. I'll have to lay the 18" next to the 20" to see if the top hose hole is further towards center of if the 20" is smaller in height.
 
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