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Discussion Starter #1
Who can give me any good advice about upgrading my camshaft? I want to add more horsepower and torque to my 302 4 V 1968 cougar, without needing to do more rpm to achieve the extra muscle. What camshaft to buy and where? summit? please some useful advice to a new cougar owner from the netherlands.
 

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Before we can give any advice, we need to know more... Is your car's engine stock? If not, what upgrades have been made? What is the compression ratio? What grade gasoline is available in your area?? Manual or automatic trans? Rear axle gear ratio?
 

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Is the car for a race track event, or just to drive around town? Do you have already, or are you considering an overdrive transmission?
 

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times 2 on what Milo said.
 

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Yes, a camshaft alone will not make a huge impact - unfortunatley the biggest gains are made in the heads since they have to be able to flow the air/fuel mixture the camshaft requires.....then you need to match that to the type of transmission and rear gear ratio's to get the most benefit
 

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The Netherlands!!! Wow! How much is the shipping? Ditto on the other comments, get something that will suit the type of driving you'll be doing. Get in touch with Scott at CamResearch, good quality stuff. Custom ground for your application. Yes more than Summit but well worth it imho...Can even break the cam and lifters in on his cam dyno...easy peasy.
 

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Speaking totally frankly, I was in the same position as you 18 months ago, I fitted a Comp cam which failed, and has pretty much ruined my otherwise sweetly running engine.
Many parts are scored now, so it'll need a rebuild.

There's a lot of truth in the old adage "if it ain't broke".................


That said, I now have one of these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-3601/

Which has proved itself much better.
Summit's shipping shouldn't be too deadly, it wasn't bad to the UK.

Remember tho, if you upgrade your cam, you'll also need to replace valve springs, timing gear and chain, maybe the pushrods, and possibly even the rockers. Higher lift cams can make the press-fit rocker studs pop out of the head..

If you have pedestal rockers you won't have that problem, but you can expect to change the pushrods.

I personally wish I'd just left it alone, but if you decide to carry on, you're among the right type of experts to get the right advice. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hi guys,

thanks for the advice. It isnt as easy i thought it was. Quite frankly, I thought it was just a matter of putting a different camshaft in and there we go, more HP!!

I'm not quite sure if i am going to change my camshaft, reading all this. Is there an easier way to get more HP without having to change a lot? probably not, just asking..

To answer the above questions regarding what type of upgrade i was alooking for: more HP on the street, just for driving around

rear axle gear ratio is 3.00 non locking, C4 automatic, no idea about the compression ratio ( where can i find this, on my data plate??)

thanks a lot!
 

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That 3.o ratio is always going to seem a bit sluggish (but saves gas!!) but you can make about 10hp gains on going to a less restrictive exhaust system....headers and good flowing mufflers.larger pipes. It's a good starting piont for later when you want to upgrade heads/cam/etc.....(OR DROP IN A CRATE ENGINE!) ;>0
 

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Discussion Starter #10
okay... and if, just if, i was going for a crate engine, wouldnt i need to change the transmission as well? I mean, if a 3.0 ratio is sluggish, wouldnt that be the same with a crate engine? Can you direct me to extra info about mechanism of gear ratio etc, since I am, compared to you guys, a nitwit on engine knowledge...

by the way, in the netherlands, we use either 95 or 98 octane...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Speaking totally frankly, I was in the same position as you 18 months ago, I fitted a Comp cam which failed, and has pretty much ruined my otherwise sweetly running engine.
Many parts are scored now, so it'll need a rebuild.

There's a lot of truth in the old adage "if it ain't broke".................


That said, I now have one of these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-3601/

Which has proved itself much better.
Summit's shipping shouldn't be too deadly, it wasn't bad to the UK.

Remember tho, if you upgrade your cam, you'll also need to replace valve springs, timing gear and chain, maybe the pushrods, and possibly even the rockers. Higher lift cams can make the press-fit rocker studs pop out of the head..

If you have pedestal rockers you won't have that problem, but you can expect to change the pushrods.

I personally wish I'd just left it alone, but if you decide to carry on, you're among the right type of experts to get the right advice. :beer:

Thanks for reply. With your camshaft, would I need to change all other stuff you mentioned?

by the way, what are rockers??? You might have guessed al ready, I'm a new owner, never had an older car than my old ford escort. The only thing I ever really fiddled with, was my moped when i was 16. Cars have always been taken care of by the garage...
But this car, I MUST be able to do it myself. If I can fix a human hip ( being a surgeon) i should be able to fix my old car, IF i have the know how and fully understand how it all works together, there under the bonnet...
 

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Ignoring mechanical and aerodynamic drag, acceleration is proportional to rear axle torque. The torque applied to the rear axles is equal to the engine torque times the transmission ratio times rear axle ratio. The shorter your gears (higher numeric ratio), the faster you can accelerate. Taller gears (lower numeric ratio) give you a higher top speed (unless you are drag limited) and a lower engine speed at highway speeds, which translates into better gas mileage. An overdrive transmission can give you the best of both worlds because the ratio of the last gear is less than 1 to 1. For example, a Ford AOD has a 0.67 to 1 4th gear. Your car with a C4 and a 3.00 rear end would have the same engine speed at highway speeds as a car with an AOD with a 4.47 rear end and the same size tires.

Since a crate engine would most likely have more torque than your engine, it wouldn't be as sluggish, but a different gear ratio would certainly help. Unless you get something outrageous, you don't have to change your transmission.

Here's a video on how differentials work.

 

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Good video.....keep in mind that as you move up your top speed comes quicker, but eats gas like no tomorrow, and may limit your driving pleasure in anything but short distances. the 3.2x to 3.xx seem to be the best range for street driven vehicles for the most part (Depending on trans - AOD would allow taller gears)
 

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Remember the old adage. "there's no replacement for displacement".

If you already have a sweet engine, then instead of looking for a crate motor, keep an eye on the classifieds for a built motor.
Clevelands are torque monsters, drop one of those in and put your 302 in storage in case you want to sell the car as original later.

Trouble is, if you want a really noticeable jump in power, you'll have to spend a wife-scaringly noticeable amount of cash to get it.
 

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Good video.....keep in mind that as you move up your top speed comes quicker, but eats gas like no tomorrow, and may limit your driving pleasure in anything but short distances. the 3.2x to 3.xx seem to be the best range for street driven vehicles for the most part (Depending on trans - AOD would allow taller gears)
You mean an AOD would allow for shorter gears. Taller gears are numerically lower. Think of it as putting taller tires are your car. They reduce your acceleration and increase your top speed. The same analogy works for shorter gears.

There are two ways to figure out the best gear ratio. 1) Based on your final speed at the drag strip. 2) Cruise RPM required based on your camshaft, torque converter, tire size, etc. Sometimes, 3.25 is too tall with an overdrive.
 

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^^YEP - what he said ;>)
 
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