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Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning on ordering a mild cam for my otherwise stock 289, and I was thinking of the comp cams 260H (http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=31-216-2&Category_Code=SBHFTCHE) I've heard that it's a great cam for a stock to mild 289, but most of the guys who I've heard from are in mustangs with 3.00 or higher rear ends. Will this be too much cam for 2.79s and the stock converter? This is my daily driver, so manners are a big concern...
 

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What I see is a cam with more lift than you need. I believe Comp Cams figures lift based on a 1.50 ratio rocker and Fords use 1.60. That would make the lift closer to 0.474". The range of 1200 to 5200 is ridiculous for a pretty much stock 289 with 2.79 rear. You know you are only turning about 2300 rpm at 65 mph using a tire 26" tall. You will never get near 5200 rpm unless you shift manually in a stock C4. Probably wouldn't want to push it too much. Duration is the same and these early small blocks heads need more exhaust than intake with the 1.45" exhaust valve. I know the intake could be less as I just ordered a cam ground for my modified 302 based on a recommendation of using a company specializing in cams only for Fords and nothing else.

Note even Comp says best for stick and low rear and you clearly do not have either.
 

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That is a pretty popular grind - for the right setup of course. A taller rear would wake it up even without the cam, but your mileage will suffer a bit if that matters. I did have a Cam Research cam that was very custom on a race-only motor quite a few years ago - and they were great helping out on it from start to finnish. The thing ran like a raped ape too.....that motor is now in a rear engine dragster I think. Any big name cam company (Crane/Comp/etc) Should be able to set you up according to what your after.
 

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Another thing is what year is this engine? Your stock valve train is an issue. If rail rockers with studs then you have to be careful with lift. Been there and done that with a 0.480 lift cam and popped one of the pressed in studs while doing 65 mph one month after rebuilding the engine in 1974. Had to remove the heads, mill the bosses for screw in studs, guide plates and then non rail rockers. If you want to keep it simple then the lift has to be mild to avoid what happened to me. Cam Research is sending me a cam as I write this. I talked to Comp, Crane also but they asked lots of questions about my engine whereas Cam Research didn't need to. The guy knew what a J code was, a C4 was and what my gears were right off the bat. Told him the mods, my desires which were attainable unlike some and then went to work. I even had them break it in so I can avoid that pain in the ass issue of please God don't let me screw this up.

Of course I have complicated things myself by deciding to take the heads off, remove and clean the valves and then place them back.
 

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If you get a cam. Your gonna want to get new heads. And then a rear end gear change. and then an AOD trans. It's the circle of life haha.
Seriously though,
I still have stock heads and I busted a rocker arm and I got a pretty fat cam in my car. Also when changing out the rocker arm I noticed one of the studs was raised a little higher like it was pulled up. All I did was put a new rocker arm in and so far havent had any problems and I've pushed the car easily twice as hard many many MANY times as I did when I busted the rocker arm. So I can't tell if it was just a fluke thing or what. Going to keep running her till more rockers break or until I have the money for a new set of heads with stronger roller rocker setup.
But you have been warned!

(I keep a few extra rocker arms in the trunk now..just in case)
 

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I have the 260H in my 69 351W with the same gears and think it lacks some low end power. May be worse with a 289. With a gear change it may a good cam that you don't have to upgrade your valve train. The only thing i did was Comp Cam roller tip rockers. So far good but i only got 4000 mi on new motor.
I am in the process of rebuilding a 289 now and chose the Comp Cams XE256H. Won't be done for 3-4 weeks. I really hate the break in process so that other company that some mention that breaks in your cam sounds good, but if you mix up your lifters you done.
0 to 20 MPH i would say less power than stock cam. Above 20 way better then stock. If i were you i would look at some other cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh, I didn't even think about the studs! Maybe I just wait 'till I get the money for some GT40s... Coug67 I think you're right. I'll be sure to check out Cam research, though, they seem pretty knowledgeable. Thanks all!
 

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Man I wish I knew the specs of my cam. Engine builder is a buddy of mine who threw it in for free when he rebuilt my motor. I was 16 and didn't know much about motors then. But now I really wish I did. When I have money for heads I'm going to take the cam out and take the specs off of it to make sure I'm getting the best set of heads to go with the cam.
 

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Try and find the "cam card" for what ever cam you are going to use FIRST. Comp is real good about telling you the power band, gear ratio and stall speed needed to take advantage of your new cam. It sounds like you are planning on mild, so stay under .500 lift. More than that, and in order to realize the gains from your swap will really need a 3.25 or higher gear, higher stall speed torque converter, etc...
 

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That sounds exactly like my setup that I ran for a few years. I had the stock 2V 289 heads (stock valve sizes, stock rocker, stock stud), with shorty headers, ford motorsport dual plane intake, and a 600 vac sec edelbrock carb. Also attached to a c4 w/2.79 gears. I used that exact same cam, and can't complain. I would shift at ~5600 (although I ran it up to 6k a couple times) and it moved pretty good. The bottom end power was nothing special, would barely spin the tires (if at all) if I mashed the gas on a hot day. The combo worked really well from 2500-5000 though, the mid range power, all things considered, was rather good I felt.

I would say use that cam, just based on my experience with it.

One thing I should note though, is that I tore the engine out after about 3k miles to put my current one in, and I found that the tips of the rockers had all started to wear (badly), one had worked its way half through the metal on the rocker tip. So if this is what you are going to do, I would recommend that you get an aftermarket rocker at least, or make sure your valve geometry is spot on.
 

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Oh, sorry, I was talking about the 260H cam.
 
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