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Discussion Starter #1
Hello again everyone! My project just keeps on getting bigger. Now I am looking for camshaft recommendations. I inspected my cam today and found what you see in the picture below...so it will have to be replaced. I have a 351C, 2bbl heads...soon to be worked on, Edelbrock 4bbl intake, FPA full length headers, Edelbrock true roller timing chain, original crank....If you all need more info let me know and I'll get it posted. Thanks in advance for everyone's help.
 

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Jeff, you need to provide a little more info on exactually what your plannig on for the motor. I have a feeling your looking just to perk up a driver a little without a bunch of other mods to it though, am I correct?

If so maybe you want to look at the Crane powermax cams, like maybe the 260-2. There split profile cams that I think would work good with the stock Ford head with there restricted exhaust port.

I was going to try one of the Cranes myself but I wanted something a little hotter than what Crane offered for the 460 so I ended up with the split profile Comp extreme energy cams. They just happend have one a little bigger than crane offered for the 460. mm
 

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You must first decide what you want to do with the car. Drive it everyday or just cruise it occassionally, or... kick arse :)

After you decide this then we can pick the cam..

Kirk
 

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awhile ago (few years), I picked a cam from Crane and it rocked for a 2V Cleveland. It was a dual pattern, 216/[email protected] I think it was called max velocity or something (sounded cool anyways,lol)

If its going to be a street car everyday driver, you probably wont want a cam any higher. It doesnt take much to bring a Cleveland to life. Find a Boss 351 cam, that would rock :)

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, what I'm looking for is more power and performance yet it has to remain driveable. There will be an AOD transmission bolted to it with 3.50 Locking gears which have already been installed. I guess I'm looking for the mid-range cam that will still allow me to cruise occassionally. I have to recondition the heads anyway so changes in the head area can also be done now. I am not looking to do anything with the lower half of the engine unless during my teardown I notice anything out of the ordinary upon inspection.
 

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I would pick a hydraulic camshaft with lift somewhere in the neighborhood of 500-530 and duration somewhere in 215 to 225 @ 50. That will give you a lot of bottom end and still pull good at top. Youd don't want too big a cam with those gears, 3.50's aren't that steep. Good Luck

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Kirk, I am compiling a list and will hopefully have enough information in a week or so to make an educated decision. So, to everyone else out there....keep the recommendations coming!
 

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Cams

If you opt to go with a "Hot" cam, In the past I have found that if you go with a high lift and a long duration profile you start to have trouble with the streetability. Problems with heat and vacume, coupled with a "lag" on the bottom end of the rpm range.
Personally I think the sweet spot for cam profiles is a grind that uses a split profile to keep the cylinder pressures down, matched with a little over .525-.550 lift, or in this range, and trying to stay under about 230 deg duration. Most cams with this type of description can be used with a stock replacement type of valve spring, but I always advise to get the kit, so everything is matched. Sometimes it can also be cheaper to buy a kit where all the components are matched accordingly to each other.
You may not want a cam as agressive as the one I just described, depending on your driving likes or dislikes and the equipement you need to match the rest of the motor to.
If you opt to go with "More" cam than I just described then you have to really start to consider "More" of everything else about your motor/driveline in the car.
If you listen to me, I might get you into trouble!:1poke:
Good luck, keep us posted...
shane:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Shane, definitely don't want to go too "Hot". Vacuume is always an issue with our cats since the headlights, vents etc... rely on a good vacuume. Thanks for your recommendation and I don't think I want "More" everything else. Will definitely have to look into this "kit". This will be my first cam purchase for this car so it will be fun!!
 

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I think a split duration cam like Rick is recommending is a good choice. Comp Cams has a Xtreme line with specs for one of them in the 216 intake / 224 exhaust that would be an ideal cam for Jeff's engine. I have had problems with Crane quality lately and would not recommend them at this time although their engineering is relevant and interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Royce!! My cat will definitely be a different car to drive when I get her back together!
 

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AOD on a 351C? do tell.
 

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Huh?

Did yall hear somethin--------oh sorry mark, ah yeah, split, right...
We are not ignoring you buddy-just agreeing.
shane:1poke:
 

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Wow Mark, just backed up and read your post ... er...mind.
 

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Jeff, check out the 268H, sounds about right for what you want:

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/168_169.html

As for split pattern, the 351C 2v heads actually flow pretty darn well on the exhaust side. Not sure why anyone would want a split pattern cam with these heads. But, Comp Cams does offer a split pattern, check out the 265DEH on the same web page.
 

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Jim your right the 2v heads do flow pretty well on the exhaust sides, at least compared to alot of the other Ford heads. I'm not convinced that it means they flow pretty well in the big scope of things though. I still think the split profile has some merit on this fairly stock setup. mm
 

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Mark,
I guess we need someone to try both versions of the cam on the dyno and tell us. Jeff, you up for it? :)

Seriously, though. He would probably be fine either way. I'm really happy with my single pattern cam, though. With long tube headers, it seems to work well. But, since I haven't tried a dual pattern with my setup, I can't really say if one way or the other is best.
 

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Hey Jeff,

The picture of the cam lobe doesn't appear to have a problem. The reason it looks porous on the one side is because flat lifter cams have tapered lobes to spin the lifter to utilize more surface area for better longevity. But, since you told me your cam is from the mid-80's, then it is time to update to a better profile to suit your needs today.
I have to disagree with the split pattern. I do not see a need for excess exhaust duration. The int/ex port flow balance on the 2v head is pretty good from the data I have seen. If you were to keep the 351M heads with the restricted exhaust port, I would add another 5-8 degrees to the exhaust duration. But, since you have said you were going to install a set of 2v Cleveland heads and use headers you will have a pretty efficiant exhaust in comparison to the intake. If you were keeping exhaust manifolds, I would recomend a few more degrees on the exhaust.
I would say to run a cam with about 216-220 @.050 with no more duration then 274ish for the advertised duration. Fast lobe ramps allow you to have have more duration where it counts without reducing too much of valve-closed time--which in turn will retain your good idle charactoristics and at the same time make more power.
The Comp Cam that Jim recomended has quick ramps to it, the only thing about that cam that I disagree with is the 110 lobe seperation angle. The draw back to having a narrow lobe sep is it'll make a rougher idle, in which you may have to raise the idle rpm somewhat to compensate for any loss in vacuum or if you desire smoothness. The tighter lobe seperation will make a higher peak hp, but the power band is slightly more narrow---a little beyond idle--hence the rough idle and lower vacuum at idle. The wider lobe sep will have a wide power band, but the peak hp won't be high. The wider lobe sep angle will have better idle charactoristics and make more vacuum at the same given 268 duration. It more or less depends on your desires. The 110 LS on the Comp Cam may be what you are looking for, it will feel slightly more peppy then say a 112. The durations on that cam are pretty short, which will keep the overlap down to within reason of drivability with a 110 LS. If you happen to get too wound up after reading this then you can alway go for the compromise of the inbetween on the lobe seperation angle.
All in all, don't stress over a few degrees of duration. 10-12 more degrees might cause an unwanted difference. Just be honest to yourself with the intended use of the vehicle, then weigh in you desires of performance. If I could throw out a number, this is what I would pick for your car if it were up to me:
A single pattern with about 268-272 advertised with 218-221 @.050 with no tighter then a 111 lobe sep. I feel this would suit your needs with cruising, ability to make suitable vacuum at a realistic idle of no more then 650-700 rpm's and meet your desires in making some pep.
 
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