My transmission is leaving a few red spots on the ground, and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the band adjustment screw. Anyone dealt with this before? After reading the shop manual (which calls out a special tool), not sure I want to tinker with this.
C6 Transmission leak - band adjustment screw
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Hmmm - I wonder what seals that? An O-ring perhaps? This might sound cheezy - but I wonder if you could temp fix that by say backing it out (counting the turns) and applying teflon tape, then run it back in..? Might let you test the theory about the leak being there anyway - or even save you a ton of trouble for a small problem? Just thinking ou loud mostly! ;>) Not committing the thought.....
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I had the same issue, and after being warned by my transmission guy not to remove the screw because bad things would happen, I did similar to C9WY's suggestion. I marked the screw position to be sure I could get it back as it was, removed the nut, cleaned the nut and all around the screw with brake cleaner, smeared a little RTV on the screw threads right at the trans and reinstalled the nut. So far, so good.
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We've always just ran the adjusting screw in to a specific torque (using torque wrench), backing off the proper number of turns, then tightening down the jam nut. Never used any sealer on the threads or nut, but I suppose it couldn't hurt anything.
Caution - you cannot back the adjusting screw all the way out to apply sealer since the end of the adjuster is in a socket on the wedge that actually goes into the fitting at the end of the band (the band fitting on the other end is affixed to the servo lever). If you back the adjuster all the way out, the wedge will fall into the pan. No biggie - just remove the pan (changing the filter anyway) and put the wedge and adjuster back, and then adjust the band as noted above.
Caution - you cannot back the adjusting screw all the way out to apply sealer since the end of the adjuster is in a socket on the wedge that actually goes into the fitting at the end of the band (the band fitting on the other end is affixed to the servo lever). If you back the adjuster all the way out, the wedge will fall into the pan. No biggie - just remove the pan (changing the filter anyway) and put the wedge and adjuster back, and then adjust the band as noted above.
Thanks for the tips... the shop manual is no substitute for experience. I'm going to give Rockhouse's method a try and if it still leaks will see if I can find a new lock nut (my usual on-line vendors don't list it). It's definitely leaking from the adjustment band screw... I saw a droplet form right on it with no evidence of moisture above it.
I decided not to skimp and got a new lock nut. Ford dealer couldn't figure out how to search for it in his computer. Napa didn't have it. O'Reilly neither. AutoZone... nope. Got one from a transmission shop for $2. I didn't have a 13/16th offset wrench, though, and Sears only had it in a set, most of which I already have, so add another fitty dolla to the job. :uhoh: Anyways... swapped in the new one being careful not to move the adjusting screw and put a fresh piece of cardboard underneath. I'm hoping to be leak free now.
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LOL - that reminds me of my weekend - dropping everything to go find that "one" socket that they skip in metric sets! (I can't tell you how insane that makes me BTW!!) It cost me close to $50 bucks - cuz I ended making 2 runs for sockets in the end!!:flamer:
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