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Discussion Starter #1
I have read many many post here and other forums regarding how to change the neutral safety switch to try to solve the starting in gear and no back up lights. The old switch appeared to have been bypassed because the positive lead from the starter solenoid was wired directly to it???? So I found the original #32 wire(red/bluestripe) and wired it up but
when I tried to start it, nothing. Then I installed the new switch and made sure it was
adjusted and again nothing. Then I hooked it up as before and again it would start in any gear and still no back up lights. Before you ask I did check the lights and they work when I hook then up to 12v. So unless anyone has any other ideas I will just have to be careful and drive my 68 with this setup.
 

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What year of car are you working on? There is an adjustment, that requires a particular, (I can't remember what size) drill bit. Ya line up three holes in the switch, and then retighten. That may be what you need to look at next...Do you have the factory repair manual for your year of car? I believe the process is detailed there.
 

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I'll try to answer, first,#32 red with blue, is not power going to neutral sw, it's coming from it. there are wires out of firewall with a plug on the end and also the neutral safety switch, in between there is a harness hooking them together. power comes through the firewall harness on the #140 black with red stripe, it goes through the plug to the safety switch as black and red and out to the back up lights,it then changes color out of the switch to red with blue stripe and goes to the starter relay So black and red to the switch, through the switch, if in reverse to the BU lights, if in neut. or park through the switch and out to starter relay . All this goes back and forth through the harness between the firewall and safety switch. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #4
towcat, May be I was too vague in my desciption, the red/blue stripe should go from the solenoid follow the wiring harness into the firewall on the drivers side to the ignition(I believe). From there it should go back out to the NSS and back. However the
original NSS harness was fried and someone (before me) ran a wire in place of the #32 from the solenoid to the hookup coming out the firewall that would normally hook up to the NSS. So after I installed the new switch I wired everything the way it should be and I got nothing. And I did hook up the new NSS with the car in neutral, stuck the drill bit in and then installed it on the tranny. So for now all I can think it might be is the original #32 wire in the harness somewhere broke and they found a quick fix, or I still have the NSS hooked up wrong???? And still no back up lights. Oh BTW, I do have the entire instrument cluster out but I don't think that should have any affect on the NSS or am I wrong?
 

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When you bought the new NSS it came with a harness and a plug? Does the harness out of the firewall still have the plug on it or has it been cut off, either way there should be two bk/rd wires and two rd/bl wires. With the ign. sw. on, there should be current on one of the bk/rd wire and the PRND light on the shifter selector should be lit. You should have power on one of the rd/bl blue wires at the firewall which does come from the ign. sw. Check for power and let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
towcat, Yes the harness off the firewall is there. I did what you asked and did not get any volt reading which leads me to believe that the problem might be from the ignition switch. It's a head scratcher for me. Unfortunately I have tilt-away and all the hardware makes it impossible to see the backside of the switch and any of the wires. And I am afraid if I disconnect that I just might end up with more problems than I started with. If you have any more thoughts though I'd still like to hear them.
 

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OK, I pulled the harness apart on my 68 GTE and checked voltage,(at the firewall plug) with key on, I have voltage on one of the black/red wires, with someone holding the key in the START position ,I have power on one of the red/ blue wires.
when you get a chance, check the top left fuse that runs cross ways (it says 14 Amp ACC) check for voltage on both sides because this is where the current powers the B/R wire to the firewall plug and also BU lights. I would check all of the fuses while you are at it. Don't forget, check for voltage on the R/B wire while someone holds key in start. check all this out, and we will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
towcat - OK it's halftime and I have time to respond. First of all I removed both back up lights and tested them, guess what!! Both the circuits tested ok but nothing lit so I remove the bulbs and discovered both were the wrong type. Changed them to the correct type and then hooked them back up. Then I checked the fuse as you asked and it was blown. I replaced it and I now have back up lights! That tells me the NSS is installed correctly.
Then I tested for continueity in the R/B #32 on the original wire and there was none. So it looks like there must be a break in the wire somewhere in the original harness. I can still hook it up at the connector or the ignition switch and my Cougar will start, however still in any gear. So I am happy I now have B/U lights but I will probably just wire up the #32 as before and move on. I did have a productive weekend still, installed new sound insulation and carpet. Also installed my new re-chromed front bumper and reattached the front valance and turn signals. I hope my reupholstered seats are ready next week and then I just have to wait for my dash bezels and then the interior should sparkle for the upcoming cruise season!

Thanks for your help so far, I really appreciate your help.
 

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I wish I could see what someone has done with the red/blue wire (how&where it is connected) then we could fix that too.
You did check for voltage on those two wires at the firewall while holding the key in start position?
 
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