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Discussion Starter #1
What is the going rate to rebuild a c-4? It only has 37k original miles but has been sitting for years. I'm sure the seals are bad. I was quoted $1000 if they pull it or $800 if I take it in--sounds kinda high..
 

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Sounds like the going rate.

If you're handy with mechanical stuff, tackle it yourself. Rebuild kit, bushings and 1st-reverse piston are less than $100. from Transtar. Plenty of manuals with detailed instructions.
Hey, if I can do it.......
 

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Sounds high to me. Bring it to Cleveland. Around here it's in the $450 range if you R&R it yourself.
 

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It's the going rate.
You're paying for know-how and someone to take it apart and make it right if it's not right the first time.
The auto trans isn't a rubik's cube, but it ain't a bag of beef jerky either. You could do it. Buy a junker spare and rebuild that one, then swap on a weekend, if you want to give it a go. But, you need clean workspace, not a dust filled chicken coop or a horse barn.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Funny stuff. My garage ain't exactly an operating room, but it ain't a chicken coop either. Don't tell the wife, but I used her vacuum on the floors last weekend.

I will pull the tranny this weekend then decide if I want to spend the coin or go for the challenge. There aren't too many things I'm afraid of, but there are times to be smart about things.
 

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I can't see why there is anything wrong with it, the transmission in my car had sat for 13 years before it finally got around to being on the road again, it had 100k miles on it, and shifts like a champ.
 

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I'm with bob, change the fluid, a good flush, and test it if it catches all gears clean and hard ur good to go. My c-4 was changed out in 86 and I just had a service done last year, drain ,band tighten, just basic stuff , it was around $250.00 and works great. The trany has approx 65.000 mi on it.
 

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A pro trans builder told me many Ford trans are notorious for sticking valves when they sit for a long time. Had this happen with one I had rebuilt but didn't get around to installing it for several years. I ended up going through it again.
 

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The hard part of rebuilding a C4 is that it seems to never stop draining fluid. Be sure you have a lot of plastic down and a good supply of paper under it. They are a mess.
 

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Mine continued to do that even after the rebuild... May it now rest in peace.

The hard part of rebuilding a C4 is that it seems to never stop draining fluid.
 

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Converter drainback valve in the stator support keeps the fluid in the converter. When the fluid in the converter drains into the pan area it fills the lower part of the transmission. The dipstick tube, selector shaft are below fluid level.

You guys with a C4 or C6 that leak after sitting awhile, check the level after sitting a few days, the fluid level will be very high.

The converter drainback valve is no longer serviced by the transmission parts suppliers, or at least I can't find them...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I should have given all the details in the original post. This car hasn't seen the road since 1985. I bought it about 10 years ago just to have something to do in my free time. Now that it is done,it's time for the first road trip. The car runs great so I'm off to my buddys house. Everything is perfect. It sounds nice and shifts smooth-- until I get ready to bring it home. No reverse! I could hear it engage but it doesn't move. I checked the fluid level again and it is fine and clean. I gave it a little more throttle and it finally kicked into reverse at about 1300 rpm.

What do you think? Rebuild or something simpler?
 

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Change the fluid and retest or have the transmission flushed with a unit that totally replaces the fluid before you pull the unit.
 

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I should have given all the details in the original post. This car hasn't seen the road since 1985. I bought it about 10 years ago just to have something to do in my free time. Now that it is done,it's time for the first road trip. The car runs great so I'm off to my buddys house. Everything is perfect. It sounds nice and shifts smooth-- until I get ready to bring it home. No reverse! I could hear it engage but it doesn't move. I checked the fluid level again and it is fine and clean. I gave it a little more throttle and it finally kicked into reverse at about 1300 rpm.

What do you think? Rebuild or something simpler?
You might can get by awhile by dumping in a can of Lucas but the seals have become hard over time and no longer seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: I dropped the trans this morning. It really wasn't too much trouble- just the cooler lines. My wife helped get it out and to the ground. She is a tough chick. I talked to the re-builder again and he said he will do it for $5 to $7 hundred. I checked with a lot of people I trust and his name came up every time. I don't have a problem paying a man for his experience and technical know-how. I just didn't know what the going rate was. I hope to get it back and installed by next weekend because it looks like I'm getting transferred to Detroit for a year in a couple weeks.

Wish me luck
 

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Not to hijack,,,but same question,,,,My C4 leaks, even though it hasn't been on the road yet. Seems to leak by the filler tube. I've changed the shift-shaft-seal and filler tube o-ring.

I have an extra out of another '68 Cougar. Have the rebuild videos, books,,,,,you guys think this can be done by a relative newbie??.........
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Go for it! You have a spare trans? What can it hurt? If nothing else, you will get some experience. I was THIS close to doing mine, but the thought of working out of town changed my mind.
 

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Update: I dropped the trans this morning. It really wasn't too much trouble- just the cooler lines.
One little nerve-saver I learned is to remove the crossmember, let the rear of the trans drop a few inches and the cooler lines are much easier to undo/attach.
 

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What is the going rate to rebuild a c-4? It only has 37k original miles but has been sitting for years. I'm sure the seals are bad. I was quoted $1000 if they pull it or $800 if I take it in--sounds kinda high..
Sounds ridiculous,if you decide to build it your self,you can buy lacquer thinner (cleans great)
and you should blow dry the parts. Clean the case, bell housing, extension housing,pan at a car wash
And be sure to go thru the valve body. Take a rag and make rolls for the valve train so you don't get confused. Throw away the flat hockey puck (if it has one),makes for a better 1-2 shift & 3-2. C4's are not too hard on bushing's.
They are really easy to build if you go by the book and make sure the input shaft
"TURNS" with the parking pawl engaged after building. You want to check the end play of the transmission as well as the torque convertor before the build.. The hardest thing you would encounter would be the high/reverse clutch assembly if it has a single coil spring. Maybe a transmission man would help you with that.
Use STP or equivalent for easy assembly of the clutch drums and servo's. Match your gaskets.
If you can,pick up a pictorial book,like a ford manual or equivalent.
Be sure to use a new vacuum modulator/hose.
Use dextron,it has a higher coefficient of friction and with stands higher temperatures
than type F.
Forgot to add check the bushings clearance,like the extension housing's do wear.
If you do install bushings,make sure you remove any nicks in the bore,and the bushing
seats squarely.
 
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