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Discussion Starter #1
New to this area so wondering where to start. I have a block bored 40 over, also have a crank but I think if Im making a stroker Ill need a different crank. Also Was wondering what other components I'll need. I have some heads, D70E, Looks like theyve been reworked recently but again Im new to this. Anyone know of a nice but affordable stroker setup?
 

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www.coasthigh.com

www.cnc-motorsports.com

Before going with any stroker kit, you must first determine what block you have now. Early 351Ws had a deck height (distance from centerline of crank to top of block deck) of 9.480". later blocks used 9.503" Some stroker kits use a particular set of components that would put the top of the piston above the block deck of a 9.480 block and must be used with a 9.503 block! (like the 393W kit I developed).

Cylinder heads - getting enough air into and out of the cylinders is tough enough with factory SBF heads in a 302, and they're marginal for the larger 351W. They are woefully insufficient for a 351W-based stroker! Just about any aftermarket head would be a big improvement. You don't have to spend an arm and a leg, either. I picked up a used pair of ported World Windsor Senior heads - that flow on par with Edelbrock Victors - for only $400.

Next we have to ask what your intent is with the new motor... Towing (low RPM torque) or high performance??? What kind of fuel do you intend to use? Pump regular, Pump premium or race fuel? What cam type - hydraulic flat tappet, solid flat tappet, hydraulic roller, or solid roller???

Anyway, I'm getting about 480 crank hp ( and a demonstrated 400hp to the ground) out of my 393W that can run on pump Unleaded Regular (but I run mid-grade or Premium if I intend to beat on it). Nothing real fancy. cast crank, hyperutectuic cast pistons, stock replacement rods (with ARP rod bolts), hydraulic roller cam, the aforementioned Windsor Senior heads, roller rockers,...
 

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Milo that's pretty interesting about the World Windsor Senior heads, I've been told you won't get that much out of an iron head.....good to know!! Good bang for your buck.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I asked in another post about the year of my motor. I bought a mexican block from a guy, so far I guess its a 78 block.
 

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Contributing Sr Motorhead
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Milo that's pretty interesting about the World Windsor Senior heads, I've been told you won't get that much out of an iron head.....good to know!! Good bang for your buck.

Michael
I had them flow - tested by a buddy that works in an engine shop. 135/111 @ .200, 200/147 @ .300, 271/188 @ .500 and 302/196 @ .600. They even out-flow my buddy's ported Ford Motorsport aluminum J302 heads by over 15%!!!

I also bought a set of ported iron TFS high-ports for $400, but didn't use them because of the raised exhaust ports - hard enough to get headers to fit a Crown Vic without the added hassle of raised exhaust ports! Those are sitting on the shelf...
 

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I asked in another post about the year of my motor. I bought a mexican block from a guy, so far I guess its a 78 block.
The 393W kit I'm running costs around $1100 for a Cast crank, hyper pistons (9.5:1 w/ 64cc heads), stock replacement rods w/ARP bolts, bearings, rings, flexplate, damper and balancing! Heck of a deal!
 

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How would a person determine a "mexican" block, and a 1978 year?
 

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Identified by casting numbers C8AM-B, 75ZY-AA, D1ZM-AA, among others, these blocks may be spotted by the "Hecho En Mexico" cast in the lifter valley. An extra unmachined boss protruding from the front of the driver's side cylinder bank can be easily spotted at the junkyard................. http://www.wrljet.com/fordv8/small.html
 

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What do you run in the 1/4 mile?
Currently a best of 13.06 @ 106.5, with 'only' 3.55 rear gears! That was going through the finish at around 4700 in 3rd. I'm changing the AOD's torque converter from a 2500 stall to around 3200, still retaining lockup in D and OD for gas mileage. That should help getting the car's almost 4200 pounds (including driver) off the line a bit quicker. This should cut a tenth or two in the quarter and push me into the 12s. Also putting the car on a mild diet by ditching the heavy dual-power split bench seat (well over 200 pounds) for some lightweight manual buckets. I'm shooting for 11.6s at 110+

 

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Currently a best of 13.06 @ 106.5, with 'only' 3.55 rear gears! That was going through the finish at around 4700 in 3rd. I'm changing the AOD's torque converter from a 2500 stall to around 3200, still retaining lockup in D and OD for gas mileage. That should help getting the car's almost 4200 pounds (including driver) off the line a bit quicker. This should cut a tenth or two in the quarter and push me into the 12s. Also putting the car on a mild diet by ditching the heavy dual-power split bench seat (well over 200 pounds) for some lightweight manual buckets. I'm shooting for 11.6s at 110+

That's pretty good time for a 4200 LBS car!!

So where are you finding a 393 kit for that price??

Michael
 

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This is the kit I developed, and cnc-motorsports is marketing for $1109, for 22cc dish Keith black hyper pistons, cast Eagle crank, Eagle rods w/ARP bolts, Hastings rings, Rod and main bearings, new damper, new flexplate and balancing!!! This yields 9.5:1 compression with 64cc heads.

CAUTION: This kit MUST be used in a 9.503" block!!!

I'm cheating a bit and using a wide-ratio AOD - that is a combination of the lower gearset from a 4R70W in a mechanically-controlled AOD case (no computer needed). The lower gearset has ratios of 2.84, 1.55, 1.0, and .70 for overdrive, compared to the 'normal' AODs gearing of 2.40, 1.45, 1.0, and .67. That makes First gear 18% lower, so my 3.55 rear gears feel like 4.19s off the line, yet the engine is loafing along at 1800rpm at 60mph in Overdrive. Best of both worlds!!! One caveat, though, the AOD (or WR-AOD) must be built to handle the 393W torque! I had a buddy build mine, but this is close, with the added low gearing option... I'm good for 550lb/ft torque. You can go higher if you wish to forgo the lockup torque converter and use a one-piece input shaft.
 
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