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Discussion Starter #1
So, don't laugh. I was changing the radiator on my ride and figure i would switch out the thermostat while I was at it. I go to bolt the thermostat housing back onto the edelbrock intake manifold and end up over torking the bolt and part of the manifold breaks off!!!
:eek2:

Pics attached.
P1030195.jpg P1030197.jpg P1030192.jpg

I'd rather not pay $200-240 for a new manifold. Can anyone recommend any fixes? So far, i've thought of 4 different ideas.
1. I thought about taking it to a welding shop and welding it back together and re-threading the hole. Maybe installing a heli coil if possible
2. Taking it to a welding shop, installing an aluminum stud in there and welding the stud to the manifold. Then securing the housing by installing a lock-washer and nut to the stud; holding the housing against the manifold.
3. Getting a new manifold.
4. JB welding it...

I appreciate any input, ideas. Please check out the pics.
 

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It looks like you still have some threads in there. If there is how about a longer bolt. I can't remember if that it a thru hole. If so you might be able to file it flat and put a nut on the back side. There is no need for anymore than 24lb of torque on that bolt.
 

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I'm good at breaking things using the one click of the elbow! Therefore my wife bought me a foot pound and an inch pound torque wrench before I started this project!! I feel for ya.
 

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there is a fair amount of corrosion in the area making weldig a real chore--alum parts that have been near antifreeze tend to not weld [email protected] $ 200.00 you might want to just plain bite the bullet and replace the manifold---most welding shops are around $ 75.00 per hour and the same for machine shops---if your cheap repair doesn't work you'll be out the repair , a new manifold and two sets of gaskets
doctordesoto
 

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That alumiweld stuff actually has a very low melting point and works quite well on "most" stuff. - Just a propane troch is all you need. It has saved me a few times before. You may want to practice a bit with it first though. You should be able to do it as it sits - only out a few bucks if it doesn't work.
 

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I rebuilt the entire front edge of my convertible top front bow using aluminum low temp welding rod, it does work very well and (as they claim) it is harder than aluminum. The hard part on a piece as big as a manifold will be getting the piece up to the temperature required to melt the rod (and so have it adhere).

Failing this possibility, a welding shop might take pity on you and heli-arc the piece for less than an hours labor, it is a small repair and if the welder is a car guy, maybe he would feel for you having to pull the manifold just for the repair?

Regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone. I spoke to a guy at a welding shop and he told me that due to electrolysis and the location of the break, it will make it tough to have a weld that holds =(

So... I'm going to keep an eye on craigslist and ebay for an intake I feel comfortable buying. If I don't see anything in a couple weeks, I'll have to buy a new one. In the meantime, I'm installing new rotors, brake hoses, calipers, pads, and bearings in the front. I'll make sure not to overtighten the banjo bolts =)
 

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Maybe I'm seeing it differently, but it don't look that bad. The thermostat housing on my 4.6 is held together with 2 6mm bolts.
 

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+1 Looks like there is enough thread left and there is plenty of sealing area for the gasket as it is. you could turn it into a stud rather than a bolt and just JB-Weld it if it make you fee more comforatable. Save's you a bit of dough on something nobody's gonna see....and should work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm going to have a buddy come over and take a look at it. Doing the bolt/JB weld combo seemed like a viable solution, but i've had several people telling me not to do it. I just don't want to be driving down the freeway and have coolant (or steam) start to hit my windshield =)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My first thought was to do just that, get a stud and jb weld it, putting a nut to hold it from the other side. But I've been getting advice not to do it. I just don't want to be driving down the freeway and out of nowhere, coolant (or steam) starts hitting my windshield. I'm going to have a buddy come over to check it out and give me his $0.02.
 

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LOL _ If there is enough threads to start with it should up up quite well. Your only talking 16 lbs of preassure anyway. I'm driving with a JB welded pulley boss on my DD and it's held up for months and has way more pressure than that....the alumaweld is still better solution if you can get it hot enough to take hold. Could stud it that way too....may need to use map gas rather than propane to get it hot enough fast enough - good luck
 

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i have a local , metal/welding shop here by me that welded an aluminum egr /throttle body adpater for me for like 20 bucks. it will require you pulling the intake and taking it to them. this isnt an over the phone kinda question . they need to see it
 

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What intake is it? Performer? 302 or 351W? many used intakes out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a 351W with a Performer RPM. If I do switch it out, I will probably switch to a Performer so I can get more hp straight from idle.
 
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