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Discussion Starter #1
I have never had this happen. My brakes start to feel soft, then go out. So I trie and bleed them but nothing comes out of the read wheels. So I buy a new master cyl and install. The old master cyl I think was the original, my cat is a 68 XR-7.

I tried to bleed the brakes with a one person bleeder, but nothing comes out of the back wheels. So I trace the brake lines and did not locate a leak . I got a buddy coming to help tomorrow night and bleed the original way with one person pumping the brakes.

Has anyone had this happen before? I have never had brakes that would not bleed. If something is stuck in the line....any suggestions on how to remove it..blow out lines??

I did notice a hose connecting to the rear end is broke...read end pressure relief hose?? I don't think that would effect the brakes.


thanks for the help!
 

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Dan - what configuration brakes do you have disc/drums? Are you getting fluid to any of the lines? Sounds like your proportioning vavle may be hung up for one thing....there is an adjustment process to go through, but it's not uncommon for them to rust/gunk/seize up internally and they are a booger bear to rebuild! If you find that's the problem you may be better off getting a different one......http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kOCpaFGWGw
 

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we just put a new m/c on our 67 and it took me 45 minutes to bench bleed the m/c--you have to get the m/c bled and adjust up the brake shoes tight
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't recall seeing a proportioning valve on my system. I will look as soon as I'm paroled from work!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My system is drum at all four corners. Is a proportion valve required for drums? IF so then I will shop around for a replacement. The video looks great, I know what I will be doing during lunch!

45 min to bleed...wow. I only spent 15 min on it last night.

I will update tonight after I go through it again.

Thanks!
 

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You have a distribution block that has the brake light switch in it, that is what Bad69cat was talking about. you could also have gunk in the wheel cylinders not letting the fluid flow out the bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay I will see if I can find it. I'm assuming it's in the engine bay...area.

Good call on gunk in the wheel cylinders. That loos like the next step.
 

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It's probably somewhere along the trans tunnel in a 68 I think.......looks like th one in the video - just a different location
 

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I would try this first as I had the exact same issue when I first got my Cougar and tried to bleed the rears and couldn't. I have a 1969 with front disc and rear drums. I have a single brake line that splits at the rear axle into the right and left side. I have a hose where this splitting takes place at that attaches to the axle. I replaced this hose with a stainless steel one and my problem was solved.

The hose sits close to the exhaust and gets hot, causing the inside of the hose over time to breakdown and separate from itself. When you go to bleed, the hose is closing on itself and not allowing the fluid to flow/bleed. This is where I would start. While you are at it, I also replaced the front hoses with SS and would also recommend that too.

Before you reinvent the wheel with replacing the master cylinder, distribution block and proportioning valve, etc, change the hose. Your time will be well spent. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
good advice. The smart guy I am removed the brake line from the driver side rear wheel cly. I pumped the brakes and nothing came out. Now my problem is re onnecting the brake line to my wheel cylinder....it's not stripped, but just being a pain to connect. Not my brightest moment.

I know what hose you are talking about, I did notice it is really close to my ehaust. I will cahnge it while I'm at the rest of it. You know how it is...start one project and that just leads to more items to address!

I get married in 3 weeks and the future Mrs is convinced I'm making this up to stay in the garage and "miss" the wedding plan details!! I just told her "The Cat must be ready to drive us off into our future LOL!
 

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Atta boy - the right attitude. Brake lines take a certain amount of fineness to get them right.....also I highly recommend flare wrenches (and good quality ones!!) as the best tool for the job - cuz rounded off fittings are NOT FUN! :>( been there......
 

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Don Rush has a great video on WCC on rebuilding the distribution block. I did not do mine, but I agree, with a little time it does look real easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I watched the video, and it does look easy. It has to be easier than trying to locate a new one. I searched all over online and found plenty of after market, but not original style.

I did notice a lot of vacuum lines/hoses in the way when removing this part. Must be careful not to damage anything.
 

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LOL - easy can be interpreted differently for sure.....depends on how crusty it is and how easy it pops out. Many have bit the dust in a gallient effort, but the grease zirk trick looks like your safest bet!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: I'm replacing the brake line, as I stripped the bolt ( I believe someone called this).
Then I will evaluate the system and rebuild this weekend.

So all in all it will be a god weekend!
 

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If you goof up a fitting - sometimes you can get it out by cutting the line at the fitting, then use a 6 sided socket to extract it. That leaves you with either repairing the line, or replacing it....good luck!
 

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We just did mine after replacing the master cylinder and we also had some issues with no fluid coming out the right rear side. We just had to keep adding and kept pumping and eventually whatever was clogged let loose and works now. However, we did replace ALL of the wheel cylinders first ;) They are cheep and worth doing... especially if you have drums all the way round like us... we did the shoes while were were at it and the wheel bearing as well. All cheap... all easy to do ;)
 
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