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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, since I got my car I have always had the brake light on. I just replaced the front pads two days ago along with the master cylinder, and went to do the rear shoes, but they looked fine. Still, I have this light on.. does anyone know how I can get this light to turn off, and come on when something really is wrong?

Thanks

Chris
 

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there should be a sensor in your distribution block. that thing is a pain in the arse to get in right but i bet that yours is just not connected right. my brakes failed on me a couple yeas ago and that light was still on after changing the master cylinder. after messing with that lil switch i was able to make the light go off and have the switch still work.
 

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brake light

i have a 67 and had that same problem...for most the time i just had it unplugged....i havent seen my cougar in over a year, since i just got back from KOREA...soo i cant tell you where to unplug it from....but the problem ON MINE..was the proportioning valve..which is somewhere by the master cylinder...i cant picture my engine since its been way to long since ive laid eyes on her...but the KEY to mine was the PROPORTIONING VALVE....dont know if its the same for 69..hope i might of helped a lil...good luck
 

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I did a long explanation then checked the shop manual. I was wrong!

" To centeralize the pressure differential valve and turn off the warning lightafter a repair operation, a pressure differential or unbalance condition must be created in the oppostie brake system from the one that was repaired or bled.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the acc or on position. Lossen the differential valve assembly brake tube nut at theoutlet on the oppositeside of the brake system that was repaired and or bled last. Depress the brake pedal slowly to build line pressure until the pressure differential valve is moved to center position and the brake warning light goes out. Emediately tighten the outlet porttube nut.

2. Check refill brake fluid master cylinder reservoirs if neccessary.

3. Test brake pedal pressure before driving."

Hope this helps.
 

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I couldn't get the nut to loosen on mine. I didn't want to twist the tubing. Is there another way? I also tried to open one of the bleeder screws and press on the pedal, but that didn't work. I just took the bulb out of the dash the last time I had it off, but I want it to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ahh it adds more suspense when driving with friends... "Your going that fast and your brake light is on?!"
 

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On my International I had to take the switch out for the cylinder to move back to center. The little plunger on it lucked in grove on cylinder and wouldn't let it move. Try this and bleed at wheel you may be able to see cylinder with switch out.
 

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I have the idenitical problem with my 69! I have just been through all 4 wheels, and still I can't get it to reset. I have changed the switch on the valve, bled all 4, replaced a caliper w a broken bleeder & still I can't get it out. And of course, the proportioning valve itself is in an awful place under the hood hinge. I can only assume that the piston is stuck in the valve , although all wheels seem to brake on a gravel lockup. Great question, I,m anxious to see any other posts. Baddad
 

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switch

I was able t find an OEM sending unit from a ford dealer it was $10.00.After mass quanities fo PB blaster and I also removed the hinge I was ale to get the block out.It is a PITA.Iended up installing a new rear brake line.Good Luck
 
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