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I need to bleed the brakes on my 68 XR-7 (F-disk/R-drum). I've never done this before but I found a good step by step guide that explains the process pretty good.

Since my car has power brakes do I need to have the engine running when I bleed them? :confused:
 

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Oh, and as the post said, you do want the engine running when you bleed them for best results.
 

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There's no reason to run the engine. It works fine with engine off and is much safer. Otherwise the article looks good except you must check and refill the reservoir about every five pumps. Another thing, clear plastic tubing is unnecessary. Regular vacuum hose works fine. I use a 1 quart coffee can to catch the fluid. The order of bleeding should be as follows:
Right rear.
Left rear.
Right front.
Left front.

If working by yourself like I always am (no friends) you can use a length of broom stick that is the correct length from seat riser to the pedal to hold the pedal down so that you can close the bleeder valve, top off the reservoir and reinstall the reservoir cap before letting the pedal return. Otherwise an assistant must close the bleeder valve before you release the pedal for the last time.

Another good one man method is to use a reverse bleeder kit or pressure pot bleeder. Both types are available from Snap - On, Matco, Mac tools etc.

I was at Auto Zone two weeks ago and bought complete new rear wheel cylinders for $8 apiece, bought a spare set because that is a really good deal!
 

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Personally, I got sick of the whole brake bleeding thing and just bought a Robinair Electric Vacuum pump, hooked it up to a bottle and now I just simply connect the line to the bleeder valve, open it a bit, turn the pump on and away we go.

This method also allows me to flush the entire brake system with ease once a year or so...

Pump cost me about $150 on Ebay.
 

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go to harbour freight and get the power bleeder it cost is 38.00 bucks it also works as a vacuum pump and worth every penny put the line on add some vacuum and crack the blled screw watch the bubbles disapear and done. im like royce i have to do allot of stuff by myself and i have bled the brakes on my tbird and both cougars as well as the clutch on my ranger using this tool, paid for itself first time out. if you want to get a little bit nicer unit made by the same company but made of metal instead o plastic check out here http://www.gesforless.com/DB-Interfaces/ProductChild/_reports/displayitem.asp?CategoryID=1&SubCategoryID=18&ProductID=323
 

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A guy I work with loaned me his vacuum pump type bleeder... I've done it the pump the brakes-til-your-leg-wears-out method, and with this little unit... I hope I never have to do it the old way again. It gave better results than I EVER got by pumping the brakes, and it also purged out the old nasty fluid, as Logan said.

Ron.
 

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Been using speed bleeders about 10 years now and are convinced they are the most cost efficient and reliable one person methods. Plus you can do it anywhere:D
Just one other thing with the Disc/drum setup. Open the bleeder screw as little as possible so the p/v does not think you have a failure and lockout that set of brakes.LOL Ask me how I know:p:
 
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