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Discussion Starter #1
I have 3 batteries from the cars that don't get driven and the batteries go dead in them in less than a year and will not recharge.

How do you store them to make them last?

Do the a stores store them a certain way?:1zhelp:
 

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My dad always told me to never store a battery on concrete or it will be dead within a month. So if it's ever stored out of a vehicle make sure it's on a wooden bench or something similar. I normally just disconnect mine (for winter storage) and leave it in the car. I also make sure the top of the battery is as clean as possibly.
 

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Batteries that go to an extreamly low discharge will often retain the memory and not fully charge also batteries that become discharged can freez and once this happens there shot. I usaly through a charger on any thing that dosent get driven once a month for a day or so. If your storing a few batteries I would hook them up in parallel and put a charger on them and switch it on for a weekend every month to maintain charge. Keeping them in a good spot helps, cool dry place.
 

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I hate this topic! It causes so many arguments!! :lol2: Leaving them set on concrete or anything else for that matter will not drain them unless they are very dirty (even then it would take months). The quality of the battery depends alot on how it reacts once it is drained. I sell battery's here and I guarantee you if you buy a Wal-Mart "Never Start :lol:" and drian it dead its, shot. I'm no scientist and I dont know the physics of it but it has to do with the type of materials (internal) its made of, to how it goes dead and how it re-charges. Interstate sells the best quality battery if you buy the good ones. As for letting a vehicle set over the winter, first start with a good quality battery with a full charge and simply disconnect. It will stay good till spring. I do it every year and have never had a problem doing it (once I learned cheaper is not better! Went through 4 Wal-Mart battery's in 2 years).
Just my $0.02
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dropped off one of the batteries at the auto parts store for a recharge. The one out of the 280Z. It is older than 5 years old. The car has been sitting that long. I had to jump it for about an hour to start the car last time I started it but, it wouldn't restart after shutting it off. Now, someone told me you can't jump fuel injected cars and I did! Na na na na boo boo!

I want to make sure I have a good battery for the trip (for the trade of my 280Z for another 72 XR-7). It's a hell of a lot easier to get them on and off the dollies if I can drive them!!:D
 

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Trust me you can jump EFI cars as easy as any other type
 

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Lead acid batteries need to be kept fully charged. The presence of concrete does not affect batteries.

The ideal method of storing batteries is with a battery tender hooked up. They can be placed anywhere the temperature is above freezing. Battery fumes may cause corrosion in metal objects so keep them away from metal. Also, battery fumes are explosive so keep them away from sources of ignition such as gas fired furnaces and hot water heaters.

All the battery companies have issued statements repeatedly over the past 60 - 70 years stating that storage on concrete is acceptable and in no way harmful.
 

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a battery tender, like Royce said, is a great battery saver, also saves the underside of our hoods.
 

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All batteries will lose some charge over time even when they are disconnected, but will go down quicker if connected and not used. Stores have a fair turnaround, a new battery probably sits on their shelves less than 6 months so it doesn't sit long enough to discharge to the point it won't start a car. If you don't drive a car for a while, pull the battery and put it on a battery tender.
 

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Once upon a time in a country far far away - a guy selling batteries for collector and performance cars needed to store a rare battery for his British car for a very long time. I believe he charged it up fully, drained the acid and then put it on the shelf upside down. He was then planning to put fresh acid on it when he had finished restoring the car. Playing with acid is probably not for everyone. You may want to confirm this method from another source before attempting it.
 

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"Na na na na boo boo! "

Judy, don't forget I told you I was not sure about that one, give me some due there, I did check up on it, my brother-in-law had a monza, now I guess you guys don't have a clue what that is, its an opel, anyway that was years back, and he was freaking about having to jumpstart it cos it had a computerised system or something to that effect and it was 'dangerous' to jump it, I did not take much notice cos' none of my old cars had anything fancy in them, but I do remember the freak out, sorry, now if anyone can tell me what type of car you can't jump start then that may clear the air, on my side at least. Na Na Na, I'm not scared to say I was wrong, na na nana na...........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got new battery

Well, the battery was toast! Got a new one. Economy battery $29 and the 280z fired up very strong. Wow!

Now, my husband is scared to go through Washington because of the war that may going on in the next couple of days(leaving Thursday morning). Especially, pulling a little brown Japanese car.:rolleyes: We are going and that's is all there is to it!!!

This battery will be for the new Cougar parts car, the Camaro and my husband's Jeep for occasional starts.


Oh, thanks for all your input! Keep them coming.;)
 

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When Detroit first started using computers to control emmissions we were told to pull the "ECM" (electronic control module) fuse prior to connecting jumper cables. Supposedly the units had a very light ground wire that would blow if it received a voltage spike. This may be what your B-I-L was worried about.
 
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