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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 351W which runs hot in warm weather (70 and above) in traffic. I previously installed a new radiator (only 3 row) and am using an flex-lite fan. My temp gauge runs almost into the red, say 7/8's. I am not sure which thermostat I have, I am thinking it is still stock. I am considering installing an electric fan, any recommendation? Thanks.
 

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Make sure you have a fan shround in place, get rid of the flex-lite, they're worthless for cooling in my experience. The stock fan is much better, but a bit of a drag on the engine. Upgrade to a 4 core rad, check your thermostat to make sure it's not getting stuck closed... etc etc...

If you want to go electric, get as much cfm as you can afford, like 2500-2900 cfm would be nice...
 

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Cooling

Yes Throw away any fan other than the original.They are a problem .If you want to upgrade from the four blade fixed fan I suggest the Ford flex fan.The shroud should make a difference but not essential.Maybe the theromostat is in upside down or the temp switch on manifold incorrect.There can be many other problems but I would start with a new 180 thermostat installed coil side in to manifold and be sure the fan is reaching the rad and should be 17" diameter I believe.Also be sure nothing is in the way of the rad.AC maybe?These cars logged millions of miles with a four bladed fan but I do periodically upgrade to a five or seven blade flex.The electric fans are garbage aswell in my opinion as no Cougar ever came with one and they interfere with the originality and pulling air is the idea not pushing.Hope this helps or you know how to reach me for further advise:cool:
 

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My XR7 has an original 5 blade on it, a decent shround, A/C, 4 core rad, and the only time I have a cooling problem is when I idle in traffic for more than 5 minutes with the A/C on... Mind you, the non-ceramic coated hooker headers aren't helping my underhood heat situation any either...

Anyway, the point is, cooling is not too difficult a thing to resolve, just takes a bit of effort to find the right combo.
 

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I learned a long time ago, never trust an electric gauge. I am not saying you don't have a heat problem but a 30 year old gauge would not have my trust. I keep a mechanical gauge in my cabinet just for checking heat problems. You dont't have to install it permanently just let it hang. You can then drive it and know for sure what your temp is. For sure the flex-lite fan has to go. Just remember guys the number of fan blades is not as important as the pitch of the blades. A 4 blade fan with a lot of pitch will pull more air than a 7 blade with very little pitch. Just look how many blades a airplane propeller has on it. After almost 20 years of dirt track stock cars belive me I have seen heat problems and almost every idea at how to cure them. And belive it or not alot of them were cured with alot of things combined,including things like cam timing, lean carbs and ign timing.
 

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No it is not all science I was just trying to point out a few other options that were not brought up. It could be any number of things causing the problem. For example my brother was fighting the same low speed heat problems with his 351 mach 1 and he went through all the common fixes with no luck. When he informed me that he had the same problems before his engine rebuild I had him try my eldebrock carb insted of his 600 holley and it cured his heat problem. ( Holleys are notorious for idle mixture problems) Belive it or not. Logan you advised a upgrade to a 4 core radiator which may not fix the problem, He said he has a new 3 core which should be fine. I only have a 24" 2 core in mine and it runs cool even on the hotest days when running beside my brother who was getting hot with his new 4 core. It is harder to get air to move through the extra wide core with a a/c condensor in front of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Again,

I went with the flex lite as somehow (and I won't say how) my original fan disappeared when I was in the process of finding a new radiator that would fit my Cat. I was told by various local parts places the fans to fit my 3351 W are no longer made, and was advised to go with the flex. It is a 6 blade, and I had the same exact heating issue before I replaced the fan and radiator. I also did remove the a/c radiator that was in front. I went back and checked and I did have a new thermostat installed. I picked my Cat up from the shop yesterday (body) and if was 65 degrees, temp never went above half.

So any ideas where I can find a 17" fan? I picked one up a junk yard, and had it cut, but the balance was off. I also tried a 14" and that did not work either. I am sure entirely to small. When I had the radiator replaced we noticed that the shroud had been modified (actually new holes had been drilled into it). I think the fan that had been on it may have been smaller than stock to start with. Winter my temp is fine, the summer I am afraid I may blow the engine with overheating.
 

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Fans etc

Have to agree on the advise given.I also have seen a mechanics rag somehow appear in the cooling systems before.Someone had plugged lower hose with and never took it out.What a mess.Becci I'll have a few fans here to fit but lets chat it up some more to see if the real problem can be verified.The original guage with the original switch read about 1/2 way or less however when an aftermarket sending unit is/was installed I saw a lower reading.If the head gasket is installed incorrectly an overheat can be the result.How far away is the fan from the rad ? Does it fit the outer circle of the shroud correctly?I can supply the exact dimensions of the fan extension from an unmolested original I have here if needed as well as other dimensions.The fan will often have C6AE as the prefix on a stock four blade even though no info is available I have seen more C6Ae fans than the correct one that I don't have the # for right here but I can get it.Hold off spending $$ till we can solve the problem.OK Later Ray:)
 

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grrr351
A few more things to check since you said you had the same problems before the radiator replaced. First off I dont care if you have a new thermastat installed, try another new one. A good quality one from a reputable parts store like NAPA etc. I have personaly encountered more than one bad "new" one and even if its not bad your only out less than $5 bucks. Were your radiator hoses replaced? I have seen old hoses cause problems like the lower suction hose collapse and stop the water flow. A new oem style molded hose is the best bet but a good replacement ribbed hose should be ok as long as it is the right length and not kinked. There again these are cheap and even if not the problem these are good insurance against future problems. Is your radiator cap holding pressure? They can give problems too. There again somthing cheap. Are you losing coolant? Leave the radiator cap loose, drive the car to get it compleatly warmed up and then remove the cap (carefully) and look in the radiator to make sure the coolant is circulating well. Rev the motor up and the coolant level should be pulled down. If not it is possable for the water pump to be bad even if it is not leaking. Also check for air bubbles in the coolant. Alot of air bubbles is a sign of compression in the cooling system from a leaking head gasket, or a cracked head or block which would also lead to a loss of coolant you would not see (except maybe some white smoke)since it would be going out the tail pipe. If you suspect this as the problem it usally will show up as a clean almost white spark plug in the affected cylinder.I guess all these things should have been suggested to you first since all these little fixes should not add up to a few bucks. If you dont find the problem with these I would definatly try a mechanical gage. If you cant find a fan try a late 60s to 80 ford 6 cyl truck. I think they will be close if memory serves me correct as they were 4 blades with a deep pitch. I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone, I will try these little fixes and then see what happens. I was considering the electric fan as my solutions, but it seems this may not be it. Will let you all know what happens when I have checked all of the above.
 

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I have a 14" and a 10" electric fan cooling the 460 in my 70. The radiator is a Griffin aluminum with 2 1 1/4" cores. i have a 195 thermostat in there and when I point an infared pyometer at the front of the cylinder head, it reads 202 degrees while my stock electric gauge reads between the middle and the red. Sitting in the bank drivethrough on a Friday for about a half hour made it get about the width of the needle from the red. The 460 swap kit for the car raises up the motor too high to run a fan on the water pump. i do have my electric fans on the insde where they are more efficient. They say a pusher fan is only 80% efficient as a puller. I feel I will be able to idle a lot longer if I get a better fan unit. Flex-a-lite makes an electric dual fan unit with a shroud that has a rubber sel---this would be the most efficiant electric fan, when I have the extra money, I think I will get one. As for my 69 with the 351, I have a 4 core brass radiator, the fan I use is a 7 blade with a clutch. I had a flex fan on there before and one time it got so hot under the hood it melted some stickers I had. I don't even have a shroud now and don't get any hot problems. Though, when I start the restoration on that car, it will need a shroud since it will have a working A/C.
You have received a lot of good answers and advice, but I thought I'd tell ya about my cars. i guess I just felt like writing.
:cool:
 
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