[68XR-7Cat]

This is the one I'm talking about:

STARTER SOLENOID 67/71 W/ "AUTOLITE"

Starter Solenoid Switch for 1967-1971 Mustang and Cougar.

This is the switch mounted on the inner fender apron. The solenoid features the correct Bakelite finish, "Autolite" logo and "C7AF-11450-A1" stamping.

As part of the recent issue I had with BBCat, I bought one of these but then couldn't use it because the engine kept running after the key was turned off. I had the same problem several years ago with Cheshire Cat. Now I'm trying to decide if I should just return it or get a replacement.

 

[Floorit]

It could be your solenoid, ignition switch or voltage regulator - check out this link for an explanation http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...15-car-keeps-running-when-key-turned-off.html It you do get a new solenoid you might want to get one that has silver contacts on the inside instead of copper. Silver is much less likely to stick than copper.

 

[Don Rush]

The AMK solenoids are not so good... Had mine go bad at Barrett Jackson, starter was stuck on! Rather embarrassing.

 

[390XR7]

Ya I've got one only lasted about a week then got stuck,would only click and not crank,put the old one back on and no problems now.

 

[towcat]

The AMK solenoids are not so good... Had mine go bad at Barrett Jackson, starter was stuck on! Rather embarrassing.

I had the same thing happen to two different ones and replaced them with Motorcraft.

 

[Royce Peterson]

I bought one fifteen years ago for my yellow J code XR7-G and it failed with the starter in the ON position! I had to disconnect the battery terminal to get it to stop cranking.

Heard that quality issues were solved, so I bought one from AMK in 2007 for the blue GT-E that I owned then. SAME PROBLEM!!!!!!

 

[jcbingcougar]

I've had that problem on both the AMK solonoids I've purchased and on one I bought from Autozone. I recently changed the solonoid out for an original Autolite one and no more problems. Avoid the reproductions.

 

[68XR-7Cat]

OK, so it looks like we've all had problems with these solenoids. So that begs the question - what does one use to conform to judging standards for the "correct" solenoid?

 

[jcbingcougar]

OK, so it looks like we've all had problems with these solenoids. So that begs the question - what does one use to conform to judging standards for the "correct" solenoid?

A used original. I got mine from John Benoit.

 

[draftman57]

I've been having solenoid problems for about a year now. The one in the car went bad, so no problem put in a spare that I had kicking around. That lasted about a week before it died, so went to Lordco (local auto parts chain) and bought a new one which turned out to be a Delco. Not crazy about using GM parts, but that's all they had. Parked the car for the winter about a month later, then when I started it up in the spring, starter would not disengage, so had to disconnect the battery. Decided the car did not like GM parts so went to the largest ford dealer in town and they had no idea what a solenoid was, let alone have one in stock. Back to Lordco and my 2nd Delco as I had to get the car running. At 2 months and counting, and it's still running, but not holding my breath.

Are Motorcraft or Autolite available anywhere? Not worried about concourse, but would at least like to get one that's black rather than the grey Delco.

Colin

 

[Royce Peterson]

The D2 Motorcraft units are still available from your local Ford dealer.

 

[68XR-7Cat]

I looked up the Motorcraft one at FordParts.com and it came up with P/N 11450. That's the same base number as the MU concours solenoid. Is it the same unit? I also did a quick search for "D2 Motorcraft solenoid" but didn't find anything that way.

 

[ahunt191]

The part number on my solenoid is D2AF-11450-A4. I do not know where or when it was purchased, but it was installed before I bought it in 1997.