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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a very basic overview of how to use POR-15. I'll be adding and revising this section as necessary. For now I just wanted to give those who may not be familiar with POR-15 what its like to use.

I've closed this thread to responses to keep it neat. Please open a new topic if you have any questions.



POR-15® is a moisture cured coating that chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard, nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It works by isolating metal from moisture; without moisture present, steel can't rust.

For surface preparation rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface rust will actually allow the Metal Ready (step 2 below) to act more aggressively.

For best results, follow the POR-15 three step process:

<b>1 - Degrease and Clean Surface</b>
After wire brushing loose rust, or sandblasting, clean surface with Marine Clean - an alkaline cleaner that will strip away any oil and wax.

<b>2 - Neutralize Rust - Etch metal </b>
Prepare the rusty metal surface with METAL-READY™. As a rust remover, METAL-READY™ will neutralize rust, etch metal for better adhesion, and coat the metal with zinc phosphate to encourage deep chemical bonding of POR-15™ to the base metal and rust.

<b>3 - Apply POR-15 Rust Preventative Coating</b>
As the moisture resistant POR-15™ bonds to the rusty metal, it will form an unbelievably tough, almost ceramic-like finish that will not crack, chip or peel.

<b>A Word About Ultra-Violet Sensitivity</b>
POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Failure to do this may result in long-term damage to the POR-15® coating. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

If you do need to topcoat you can use our Tie-Coat Primer ( which is designed to help any other paint adhere to POR-15. It goes on thick and sands real well to a smooth finish.

Otherwise, you can also apply a topcoat of paint to the POR-15 while it is in the "just beyond tacky" stage where it won't leave a finger print, but is still not fully cured (usually about 1 - 3 hours after application).

<b>General Handling Tips</b>

<LI> Don't get this stuff on your skin. It won't come off for several weeks.
<LI>Make sure the surface your coating is bone-dry.
<LI> Pour from the container what you'll need for a session and immediately close it to prevent exposure to moisture that will begin the curing process.
<LI>Read the directions and follow them closely for the best results. This stuff ain't paint!
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