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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I was wondering what would be involved in wiring in a higher output alternator. I know some wiring would need upgraded, but what exactly would need done
 

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Hard to beat the 1 wire GM alternator for simplicity. Run a single #4 guage wire from the alternator to the positive side of the starter solenoid. Done!

When using a one wire alternator you should remove the bulb from the "ALT" idiot light and install a volt meter to monitor alternator performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool, thats it then. So would I hook the voltmeter just to the pos terminal on the battery then?
 

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I would use the ACC. on the fuse block. Unless you want the meter on all the time.

Bruce
 

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Bruce is right, the volt meter is a drain on the battery that would run it down over time. Best to hook it to a switched source as he suggests.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great, I appreciate the help. I haven't done much electrical stuff, so the one wire seems like the easy way to go. Don't want to make one of those mistakes that ends up with me haggleing with the insurance adjustor over the charred remains of my car. I read a thread previously that talked about one-wires having disadvantages, but I figure it's got to be better than what I put up with now. Besides, lots of people seem to run them without any troubles. Going to order the b;ack 140 amp job from summit right away.
 

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Glad we could help. I havn't been here long but the great thing about this place is the way everybody helps each other.

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, one last question...Is the mounting for the GM one wire alternators (The real Delco ones) the same as a Ford. I only ask because they look the same, like the GM would fit on the Ford Brackets in all the pictures I see, but they may just be using a common picture. I can get a regular GM one wire from the parts store here, but the specific Ford version (only one I've seen is the powermaster one) I'd have to order.
 

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I read through that site on a previous post about the subject. The guy is really trying to make a case but honestly the one wire alternators are hard to beat in spite of his negativity on the subject. I wonder if his dad was an electrical engineer laid off from GM.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yeah, I read that too. I don't need the idiot light feature, but if I did, Powermaster does make some one wires with a terminal for a light. I just can't believe so many would use them if they weren't pretty good. I noticed on the site that they don't sell alternators, but they do sell kits to wire 3 wire alternators...hmmm.
 

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You guys are free to your own opinions and decisions. I just wanted to point it out again incase it was'nt seen before.

The site makes alot of sense to me. Yes they sell the kit but did you look at the price? It is cheap and if the one wire alternators were so wonderful why are the auto makers not using them on new vehicles? I myself have used the one wire alt's before, some with sucess, other times not.

I will not be using them in the future any longer though. mm
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mark, not trying to say it's a load of crap. I can see how a 3 wire could be a more efficient set up. At the same time I'm willing to give a little efficiency for a somewhat easier install. If the thing turns out to be worse than my 60 amp, then I can always sell the one wire and go another route. Just trying to avoid paying the electrical shop at this point. So anyway, will an older stock GM alternator mount on the ford brackets? Then I could get it from the shop here rather than order.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hehehe, well, looks like I'm going with the 3 wire after all. My friend had a new still in the box GM 12 s.i. 94 amp 3 wire set up. Electrical shop gave me a diode to hook to the white wire and told me how to hook it up, although his idea had the voltage sense wire looped back to the alternator charge terminal so in essence it would be a one wire, I think I'll just get the kit and do it right though or see if it's easy without the kit. I mean 3 wires can't be too much more difficult than one anyway.
 

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kirk, why dont you takes pix of the swap, and do a write up on it. that would make a GREAT review for everyone here. like what mods had to be done, a wire schematic for wiring it up, brakcets,etc.
Thanx


Rick
 

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Yes I agree, I have to do the swop one of these days and it will be great to learn from all your mistakes, just joking. Seriously tho' it would be great idea, go for it, I for one will be one of the first to read it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright, If all goes well I'll do a write up. I do know this so far. The mounting bosses on the GM alternator are too small. THe shop drilled them out on a drill press for me to accept the larger Ford bolts (I want to say 7/16 in, but I'm not sure). You will also need a couple of spacers to put it in the right position for the pulley to line up. The 68's had that brass spacer for the top and I had an extra one, so I have cut it to make 2 spacers of the propper size using the stock ford alternator as a guide. So far that's where I'm at. I'll bolt it up tommorow if all goes well and try to wire it this weekend. I am going to integrate it into the gauge feed harness for the engine compartment I'm making. My original was so brittle it broke in two places when had to move it a little. Besides that I went with a mechanical temp and oil pressure gauge in an xr7 cluster I got. Also put a voltmeter in the ammeter spot. Fuel, speedo, and tach remain original. The factory gauges were shot (needles missing) and I figure this way I don't have to change to the xr7 harness. as I adapted the standard cluster harness to the modified xr7 cluster. I just got my msd tach adapter too, so I'll let you know how that goes too. Any suggestions as to where to connect the voltage sense wire from the alt. The article suggested the main junction block somewhere but is any one circuit better than another? The white wire (exciter?) will run off the 12 volt switched circuit that runs from the ignition switch to the coil and the sense wire may end up there too unless someone has a better idea or research reveals this may be a bad idea. I'll keep you all posted and appreciate any and all input as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh yeah, the c4 rebuild will be done tommorow too, so putting that back in could throw me a little behind too, then I have to do the rear brakes too...also gotta do those on the wifes astro as well as the temp switch...does it ever end!
 
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