Air shocks tend to run at a minimum of 25psi up to a max of 200 psi. my 67 has weak leaf springs on it and I've "band-aided" it with some air shocks for now. I think I have like 65psi in them. Click on the link in my signature and there's a pic of how it sits.
Keep in mind they're temporary. The wish list has new front coils, new leaf's, front/rear sway bars and new shocks to get rid of the air shocks.
But anyway, it get's the cat's butt off the ground.
One word of caution on air shocks. Use one line per shock. Dont tie both together with one line, the air will transfer between the two (say going around a corner) and blow one if it gets a heavy dose of air. Im not saying dont use them, just use a single line per shock, it also will help level the car better. I would use a real good gas shock over air, Ive never had any luck with air shocks.
Cleveland: your shocks leak because the air lines aren't sealing properly. On another note i used to run air shocks with 2" extenders on each one. That allowed me to run with less air while keeping the height I needed and still allowing the shock some cush.
Badcatt is correct. The upper shock mounting area is not designed to carry the weight load of our cars. That's what the springs are for! That upper shock mount area is just thin sheet metal, although it is a bit thicker than exterior body sheet metal. It was designed to take the damping force of the shocks, not to carry the full weight of the car!
Air shocks are a crutch some people use to get their cars to ride level instead of replacing the worn out, weak or broken springs.
That's one of the biggest problems with our Cougars, that 'rubber sandwich' spring isolator! The supposed purpose of that isolator is to reduce road noise and harshness. The problem is that &^%$#@* thing allows moisture to collect, causing rust. The rust forces the leaves of the spring apart causing great stress on the center binder bolt area. Most of the time the leaf (or leaves) will crack right at the binder bolt hole. There goes your spring lifting capability, hence the need for 'helpers' like air shocks or booster springs. Sometimes (rarely) the binder bolt itself will break. That bolt is what helps keep our rear end housing stationary on the spring. If the bolt breaks, it will allow the rear end to slide fore and aft on the spring, causing 'dog tracking'.
My AlphaCat used to have air shocks. Now it has new springs. My old 74 (Shhhh) Camaro also had air shocks to disguise its spring problem when I bought it. Eventually the upper shock mount punched right through, neccessitating a major welding job. When I went to replace the rear springs, every single leaf in both springs was broken at that center binder bolt. That's a major disaster waiting to happen!
Do yourself a favor and correct the real problem instead of relying on air shocks. You'll be glad you did!
Well I was hoping to make my next investment new tires or a new carb......looks like leaf springs may use my latest budget!!! Oh well...in any case I did fill up the shocks today and she does ride better....or maybe that was just because the top was down and the sun was out!!!
After I bought mine home on a flat bed,This kid must have raced it,on the rear end I have the factory leaf springs,with coil springs,air bags inside of them toped off with a pair of air shocks also a set of traction bars .when I pull the wheels off to clean them this week end I will take a picture.My air shocks are at least 15 years old they kept leaking down.This my sound cheap but I had nothing to lose,a can of fix-a-flat sealed the leak right up I did this last oct. it is still holding. Dan
Couldnt one just put a larger heavy duty washer on the shock (after the grommet) to help spread out the load against the mounting point? I used to run air shocks pumped to the max at one time and I never had any problems. And I can tell you I ran the holy shibit out of my cat without any kind of problems.